10-23-2013, 11:37 PM | #1 |
Tweety
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1LT RS Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Fargo, ND
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Start Camaro and let it run during the winter.
I'm about to put my Camaro away for the winter and was talking to my dad about what I do before I put it away. Oil Change, Full Tank, and Gas Stabi I think should be fine. But he said that I should start the Camaro every month and just let it run during the winter. Should I do this?
Also, what should I do with the battery? Take it out, leave it in?
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10-23-2013, 11:44 PM | #2 |
Right, right.
Drives: 79 Z28, 86 Camaro, 94 Burb 4x4 Join Date: Dec 2008
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all good tips from dad. Yes, its good to let it run for a bit every once in a while when youre storing it for a while. And I put a battery tender on mine, I would recommend that.
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10-23-2013, 11:48 PM | #3 |
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Drives: 2011 Chevy Camaro Join Date: Sep 2010
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Battery tender and some stabilizer in the fuel. Leave it alone. Don't start it. It's not a good idea at all. Cold starts are very hard on an engine. So why start it while its freezing just to hear it run? Makes no sense at all. That and water will condense in the engine transmission and exhaust system. And water in those places isn't good. I don't see any good things coming from cold starts for absolutely no reason at all.
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10-23-2013, 11:49 PM | #4 |
Tweety
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1LT RS Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Fargo, ND
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See idk about that. I kept reading online that you should not start it or even touch the thing during winter storage.
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10-23-2013, 11:54 PM | #5 |
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I take a completely different approach: store with 1/4 tank of fuel, no additives, fill up first thing after storage. Full tanks were needed with steel tanks to help prevent rust. Our tanks are plastic, which is why I don't use Stabil (I have seen it damage plastics over time) and rust is not a factor. These fuel systems are completely sealed from the atmosphere, so moisture will not enter the fuel. I also change the oil after storage (you will get some measure of moisture in the oil over the winter; unless you plan to change it again in spring-wait). I do not disconnect the battery, nor do I use a tender. This regimen will get you up to 6 months with no issues.
Starting the vehicle and allowing it to idle is not recommended. All that does is introduce moisture into the exhaust system and oil. You won't get things hot enough to burn the moisture out. Your dad's thinking was relevant 30 years ago. The components have changed, and so have the procedures. I've followed this regimen on all of my vehicles for many, many years. I live in a harsh winter state. As always, the choices are yours to make.
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10-24-2013, 12:07 AM | #6 |
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no starting during storage. does your fuel have ethanol in it. then you will need a fuel stabilizer or it will be crap in a month. I use sea foam. take the battery out or use a tender. These newer vehicles will kill a battery quick and if you leave it in there you will be luck to not need to replace it.
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10-24-2013, 12:19 AM | #7 |
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If you leave the car unlocked would it still drain the battery?
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10-24-2013, 12:32 AM | #8 |
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no need to start it at all, my Camaro goes under the cover in my garage around November 1st until sometime in late April and absolutely no problems at all
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10-24-2013, 06:57 AM | #9 | |
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This is very true.
Quote:
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10-24-2013, 07:06 AM | #10 |
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All the systems are closed. The crankcase is closed and not vented. The only way moisture and/or condensation that occurs while the engine warms up to escape is to cycle through the PCV system to get burned in the cylinders. This happen while driving the car normally as the PCV system functions. The car just being started and sitting idling can accumulate more and more moisture in the crankcase and eventually the oil every time it is run and not driven normally. Also if the exhaust system does not get hot enough to burn off all the moisture that accumulates in the system it will just sit in the exhaust system and rust it out.
One more, the byproducts of combustion that turn the oil dark are acidic. The older and darker the oil is the more acidic it is. Best to get fresh oil in there while it is just sitting all that time, don't need it etching into the parts that are submerged in it. But you can believe whatever you like and do whatever you prefer. Last edited by MLL67RSSS; 10-24-2013 at 07:16 AM. |
10-24-2013, 07:11 AM | #11 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2LT RS Convertible Join Date: Jul 2011
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I believe GM recommends storing it with approx. 1/4 tank rather than full. Over-inflate the tires so that when you take it out of storage so that pressure is safe to drive. If you're not connecting to a charger, disconnect the negative (-) battery lead. Maybe "mouse-proof" your Camaro, as well.
I try to drive my Camaro around the block once or twice a month if the streets are dry. I've attached a guide on Winterizing / Storing a vehicle that came from GM that I found when I owned my Saturn Sky Redline.
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10-24-2013, 09:46 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 camaro SS/RS Join Date: May 2013
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Anybody know if there are storage issues with the Goodyear F1 Supercar tires on a ZL1? I live in a cold climate and the car is in the garage under a cover from Nov 15 to April 15. Im afraid if I let it sit the tires will flatspot or crack? Anybody got any thoughts??
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10-24-2013, 11:11 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
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10-24-2013, 11:30 AM | #14 | |
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I have to agree that starting the motor and then shutting off will cause moisture to be introduced. This is caused when the motor cools off after being run. Repeated runs will introduce more and more moisture. The moisture is picked up by the oil pump and circulated through the motor. The motor is shut off and some of this moisture is left on the lubricated surfaces, causing corrosion.
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