04-22-2015, 01:45 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2015 2SS LS3 NPP/1LE/ Red Hot Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 119
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Ordered a 2015 1LE, excitment excitment !!
Hey guys, I am super excited to get my 2015 1LE. I ordered the 2SS, recaros, Dual exhaust, RS package, Sunroof , nav, red hot, and course the 1LE package, z/28 CAI and z/28 exhaust manifold. (CAI and manifold to be installed by dealer before delivery)
I ordered on Friday March 06,2015 at 4pm.....the wait is killing me ! I am in Alberta, Canada. Sales person called me and told me that is built and ready for shipment as of april 1st !! s its matter of days now??? how was your time frame? how long it takes to ship? First thing I will do is to install 3M on bumpers and Gills. and maybe tint windows to keep heat and sunlight away. It will be my DD since it will be my only car. I traded in my 2011 2SS/RS whats your recommendation for break in period ? stick to what manual says? i think is keep it under 4000 rpm, and avoid hard starts and stops, and avoid constant speed? or whats your opinion? |
04-22-2015, 02:01 PM | #2 |
Drives: Black 14 2SS/1LE/RS 14 Tundra Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Plymouth, Ma
Posts: 2,414
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04-22-2015, 02:03 PM | #3 |
KaBoom1701
Drives: 13' ZL1 Red M6 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: I.E. SoCal (Yucaipa)
Posts: 8,630
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Congrats.
Nice dealer upgrades as well. Drive it like you stole it. It's a Camaro not a Prius!
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Mods:
Roto-Fab Intake, WW Res. kit & Big Gulp Air Scoop, Elite Catch Can, ATI Super Damper & 18% OD Pulley, LF Idler pulley bracket, Metco CC breather, ID850 Injectors, Stainless Power Headers w/ ceramic coating, TR71X Spark Plugs, JMS Fuel Pump Booster, Bo White TB, Tuned by Ted @ Jannetty Racing, Ron Davis HX, D3 Reservoir, Pfadt 1" Springs, Moreno Camber Plates, ZL1 Addons Splitter guard washers, Tow Hook kit & rock guards, Hurst Shifter Billet Plus 6 Speed Short Shifter, ZL1 DRL lighting harness, ZL1 Recaro Seats. |
04-22-2015, 02:31 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2015 2SS, 1LE, Dual Mode, Black Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 73
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Congrats on the purchase. Your wait should be nothing like ours since there are no customs and border crossings involved. We get them by rail to a regional end point then they unload to car carriers for the trip to the dealership. You'll probably be riding it before this ink dries ! By the way, be careful what you do with the hood wrap, there are instructions in the glove box. Make sure your dealer doesn't have the prep guys wax it on you.
Also, look at the engine when it arrives. Where you think the oil fill cap should be if there is a funky looking black canister there about 3" in diameter ask them where the PCV pipe, oil fill cap and instructions for the 1LE Oil Separator are before they throw them away. I just caught my dealers guys in time before they tossed them! I followed the manual break in as best as I could and did not exceed the speed or RPM limitations too much but it was killing me. Let everything get worn in properly and you will be rewarded later. It's OK to give it some extra foot once in a while, but don't let the engine get too hot. If there is something tight it needs to wear itself in gradually. The tech at my dealer told me to have fun when it is just warmed up, but ease off after that. That's what I do with my bikes as well. Lots of short rides and watch the temp on longer rides until you pass the break-in points. |
04-22-2015, 02:37 PM | #5 |
Huge Chevy Fan
Drives: 14' 2SS/RS 1LE built 4/22/14 Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 838
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Wait 200 miles....then drive it like you plan on driving it's whole life ..just not the steady speeds on highways for the first 1000 or so
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2014 2SS/RS Red Rock Metallic, Recaro seats, sunroof, NPP, Nitto Motivo 275/40/20 front 315/35/20 back, Cold air inductions intake, elite catch can, Stainless Works 1 7/8" long tube headers w/hiflow cats, 20% tint, Intake rod mod by Gwatney Performance, Bo White ported & polished throttle body, powerbond 25% UDP, Howards Cam 226/236 duration- 525/525 lift 110 ....with a WHOLE bunch of fun added!!
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04-22-2015, 02:39 PM | #6 |
雪の玉
Drives: '22 Z71 RST Silverado Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: South
Posts: 3,415
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Congrats........Excellent color choice
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04-23-2015, 08:33 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2015 BVM 1SS/1LE Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: United States of America
Posts: 457
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Welcome to the club, the 1LE is a real beast. I just got mine this past fall, and it is full smiles for all the miles every time I take her out. You made the right choice.
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04-23-2015, 10:24 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro 2SS 1LE NPP Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Hartsdale, NY
Posts: 1,434
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Since you asked:
Immediately, as in, first time you have the car turned over, you want to keep the load on the car high. You want to be at as much full throttle as possible. Don't purposely get close to redline, but much more importantly, don't lug the motor either (put on too much load at too low of an PRM). You should be constantly pulling from 2500 to 4K RPM then decelerating, and going back at it again. The purpose here is fill the combustion chambers with as much pressure as possible, which will put outward pressure on the piston rings which will help them to create the best possible seal against the cylinder walls. You want to try to keep this constant load up for as long as possible, for the first 100 miles if you can. After those 100 miles, you're done with the high-load pulls, now you want to slowly start working your way up the RPM range at light load. Let the revs get as high as 5K RPM for the next 50 miles, then 5500 for the following 50 miles, 6K for the final 50 miles, and then you're done. Now you can drive her any which way from Sunday. This technique has been used by some (many?) race teams for decades, and is published in a number of technical papers. No manufacturer can recommend this procedure to you because of the legal liability therein, but this is a generally agreed upon method for properly cylinder sealing which creates more power, better fuel mileage, and reduces oil consumption. When companies talk about "breaking your engine in on a dyno", they are using the dyno to create an artificial load that allows them to keep the motor under high load for longer periods of time. Here are some resources to read on the topic. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm I have some other documentation if you're interested. Just let me know. |
04-23-2015, 10:30 PM | #9 |
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Great choice !!
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'14 1LE, Recaro, Cammed, Headers, Hi Flows, CAI, Tuned, 486 RWHP
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H57UfKCO0EY&feature=youtu.be |
04-23-2015, 10:53 PM | #10 |
WILD CANADIAN HEARTBEAT
Drives: 2014 2SS 1LE RS, 2014 ZL1& 2024 ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Camrose, Alberta
Posts: 477
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Welcome to the club of the 1LE. Great upgraded car stock and ensure your face holds a smile. I drove mine 350 kms the first day back home and I called that broke in.
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700/633 91Octane Street Tune=750/670 VP109 Race Tune TVS2300 Heartbeat SC,ADM Dual Fuel Pumps/ Module, BRM lowered 1", performance rotors, hawks pads, SS Braided lines, GT-14cam, 78mm pulley, AR LT Headers, Cat Deletes, Borla S catback, tinted, 1/LE emblems, 65lb Injectors, Elite catch can,dual valve springs, titanium retainers, super conductor wires and insulators, Robo Fab CAI, Oversize intercooler reservoir, Oracle ghost side markers, Black out Bowties & SS,ZL1 splash guards, Michelin PSS. Built and tuned by Davenport Motorsports (WILD1LE)
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04-23-2015, 11:31 PM | #11 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2015 Redhot 1LE Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Westchester NY
Posts: 1,409
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When I got my car I drove it at ~4-5 rpm from Rhode Island all the way to NY. Needless to say it was one of the best breaking ins ive had.
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04-24-2015, 09:32 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2013 1SS 1LE Black - Std Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Brunswick, GA
Posts: 3,622
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I have always, and continued with this car, to follow the manual. Bot this cars predecessors ('93 Z/28 and '01 WS6) lasted for 200K miles with no issues. I really don;t think it matters much to be honest, but others will disagree. I am down with the increased cylinder pressure seating the rings better, and in engines we used in the '69 over the years, break in was much more aggressive than it was with the street cars, but there is a big difference. The engines in the '69 were going to go down the drag strip for a while, be taken apart and modified often, and never be expected to last 200K miles. I would recommend keeping in mind that you have bought a street car, not a race car...not even close.
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04-24-2015, 09:38 AM | #13 |
Drives: 2019 Chevy Equinox Premier AWD Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 1,344
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Welcome!! Did you get your car yet?? I used the non-factory method. Then I took mine to the track after 300 miles. Constantly on and off the gas all the way there on the freeway (I must've pissed off a few people lol). Stayed below say 5000RPM when there. She runs great now, no problems. Had the oil changed at 1000 miles.
I've heard others using the factory method and their car turned out fine too. So I think as long as you don't load the engine for long periods at the same RPM or low RPMs you'll be fine. Also, try not to do much of any engine braking the first 800 or so miles. Let us know if you don't know what this is. Oh and:
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2013 AGM 1SS/1LE, NPP, Camera
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04-24-2015, 06:32 PM | #14 | |
The Mechanic
Drives: a sports car Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 316
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