Defeat Your Stuck Ball Joint - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

rocketrider807 · 03-02-2014, 06:06 PM

So I did my BMR front bushings today and I came across what seems to be a common problem, the ball joints didn't want to come out of the knuckle (I think I have part terminology correct).

On the first one I wailed on the thing with every solid heavy object I could get my hands on to no avail. Then I tried something and it worked that once. I tried it on the next stuck joint and it worked again. It even worked an unprecedented third time so I thought it might be worth suggesting to you other DIYers.

WD40, and a propane torch. I doused all around the hole where the ball joint sticks out and even tried to spray around the boot in hopes it would wick its way in from the top (or bottom depending on which you do). Then I used a propane torch to heat the knuckle (being careful not to burn the rubber boots) and what I THINK happens is the heat causes a capillary effect and wicks the WD40 into any tiny gaps there may be in the (then) press fit. I applied heat all around for about 30 seconds and then two moderate taps with a hammer had the ball joint free.

Worked on my three jammed bits, hope it can save someone some headaches

Synner · 03-02-2014, 06:38 PM

WD40 can ignite.

Jrichards73 · 03-02-2014, 07:27 PM

Heat expands the knuckle. Should have same result with out the wd40. Oh and there is a tool for that.

rocketrider807 · 03-03-2014, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synner

WD40 can ignite.

No way

! I guess I should've added that warning just to be thurough...

I tried just heat. Didn't work for me. It's just a suggestion for those that are running out of ideas that's all

...or like my case the tool seems to never be available for rent.

GVA 45TH 2SS · 03-03-2014, 05:58 PM

All the ones for rent are bent anyway. LOL

I bought one for my truck, and now I use it at work for pressing apart large chain.

dragon22 · 03-04-2014, 11:07 AM

A person can use a "pickle fork" (looks like a very large tuning fork) but that will typically ruin the rubber boot on the ball joint. When I was working in garages, I would often use two ball peen hammers. Hold one on one side of the knuckle, then smack the other side of the knuckle with the other hammer. This is typically enough to "jar" the ball joint, tie rod end, idler arm, etc. out of the tapered hole.

03-02-2014, 06:06 PM	#1
rocketrider807 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Colorado Posts: 59	Defeat Your Stuck Ball Joint So I did my BMR front bushings today and I came across what seems to be a common problem, the ball joints didn't want to come out of the knuckle (I think I have part terminology correct). On the first one I wailed on the thing with every solid heavy object I could get my hands on to no avail. Then I tried something and it worked that once. I tried it on the next stuck joint and it worked again. It even worked an unprecedented third time so I thought it might be worth suggesting to you other DIYers. WD40, and a propane torch. I doused all around the hole where the ball joint sticks out and even tried to spray around the boot in hopes it would wick its way in from the top (or bottom depending on which you do). Then I used a propane torch to heat the knuckle (being careful not to burn the rubber boots) and what I THINK happens is the heat causes a capillary effect and wicks the WD40 into any tiny gaps there may be in the (then) press fit. I applied heat all around for about 30 seconds and then two moderate taps with a hammer had the ball joint free. Worked on my three jammed bits, hope it can save someone some headaches __________________ PIN IT TO WIN IT!

03-02-2014, 07:27 PM	#3
Jrichards73 Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Victory Red Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Virginia Posts: 921	Heat expands the knuckle. Should have same result with out the wd40. Oh and there is a tool for that. __________________ Updates: BTR Stage 2 VVT Cam Kit w/Smith Brothers Trunnions, Fluidampr, RX catch can, B&M Trans pan mod, Kooks Black Headers, Borla S-tunes, Eibach Multi-Pro-R2 coilovers and Swaybars, BMR Full Bushing kit with Toe and Trailing arms, RB Rotors w/EBC Pads, GForce 1400 Axles (now on order). AVH-X5800BHS in Scosche GM5201AB.

03-02-2014, 06:38 PM	#2
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,544	WD40 can ignite.

03-03-2014, 05:58 PM	#5
GVA 45TH 2SS KNGTFALL Drives: 2012 2SS 45th edition Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: (Near) Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,533	All the ones for rent are bent anyway. LOL I bought one for my truck, and now I use it at work for pressing apart large chain.

03-04-2014, 11:07 AM	#6
dragon22 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS SIM Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Calgary, Alberta Posts: 1,697 View My Garage	A person can use a "pickle fork" (looks like a very large tuning fork) but that will typically ruin the rubber boot on the ball joint. When I was working in garages, I would often use two ball peen hammers. Hold one on one side of the knuckle, then smack the other side of the knuckle with the other hammer. This is typically enough to "jar" the ball joint, tie rod end, idler arm, etc. out of the tapered hole.