Suspension questions

[Back In Time]

I saw something similar asked here recently but little different situation. Starting to upgrade suspension, won’t ever track car but want to improve it. Have purchased Pfadt 1” lowering springs. Also got the Pedders rear subframe and radius arm front bushings. Thought that would be a good start. Since it’s all still apart and on stands would it be a good idea to replace struts all around. Has 33,000 miles. How long do those normally last. Also thinking of getting sway bar upgrade. I could do both but if the struts are going to be ok for a while I could do just the sways. Some have said do one mod at a time to see how each change affects the car but this is a good time to get things done since it’s apart. For what I’m going to do with the car, street only i, are these good mod options? Thanks. I’ve learned a tremendous amount reading on here. Awesome forum

[Joe.G]

If it were me and the Struts are not leaking then I would skip them for now with what you are doing, I would do the Sways while you are doing the Springs. Now the only thing is when doing the struts down the road you are going to have to do most of the same steps that you are doing now for the springs.


Guess it comes down to budget and what you are doing with the car.

[KillboyPowerhead]

Upgrading to the newer (2012 - 2015) outboard-mount rear sway bar definitely increases the fun factor by several times (requires 2012 - 2015 rear lower control arms); solid rear subframe bushings further enhances enjoyment by a noticeable amount. You could keep the stock SS front bar and add a 1LE or ZL1 rear bar, or upgrade both. JPSS always suggested/recommended a rear bar 5 mm bigger than the front bar; with a square tire setup you could get away with an even bigger rear bar vs front.

I wouldn't worry about shocks/struts yet unless those 33,000 miles are mostly rough roads, otherwise replacing the shocks in the future can be done easy enough by jacking up one corner at a time (just jack up the suspension to normal ride height before tightening any fasteners where there are bushings).

[Back In Time]

Thanks for the recommendations. I think I am going to order a rear sway. Probably going to get the LCArms so I can go with the wider bar. Everyone seems to be in agreement that is a good idea. What do you think of the sun frame inserts ? I’ve read on here where Justice Pete really liked those as did others while some said go solid or don’t bother. It sounds like the square tire setup is the way to go also and will possibly do that down the line. Just looking to get it to handle a bit better than stock.

[Back In Time]

Also never heard of timing or cooking the bearings but I’ve read up on that and will make sure to do that process when done and then align

[Joe.G]

I would 100 % Recommend going solid on the Subframe/Cradle bushings, I never tried the inserts but I have the solids and its a huge difference over stock.While you are back there I would do the Trailing Arm and Toe Rod as well, and if you are dropping the cradle to do the bushings you should do the UCA Bushing as well ( I know it is like where do you stop ) . I had to do some of my work twice because I did it in stages instead of at once. Cost more time and money doing it that way.

[Back In Time]

Wrapping up upgrades. Installed poly u rear subframe and radius rod bushings. The subframes are no fun but I got them in. Hope they are with the trouble, lol. Thought about solid but for what I’m doing with the car I thought it was over kill and pricey. New lowering springs, DSE rear sway bar. Bought the F-4 bar which comes with the needed drop links and then bought GM lower control arms for the new bar location. Also powder coated the stock rims and have new General All Summer rubber waiting to go on. Should have a different handling car now. Won’t be able to tell what each different part did but really anxious to drive it this weekend. Thanks to all for the feedback.

[Joe.G]

Sounds like you have a good start, I would do the Trailing and Toe Rods as well, Get adjustable Toe Rods if you are lowering.

[Back In Time]

Basically finished with the upgrades. Had all bolts loose for the bushing retiming. Car was dropped perfectly on front and back. Had about 1 1/2 finger gap. Drove car slowing around the block. Tightened bolts on rear with car on ramps, rear only and when I removed the ramps the front is even lower . About 1 inch. Rear still same gap. Wondering what happened. Will get aligned this week so I hav not done that yet. I put the front struts together with the springs, gaskets, washers etc very carefully. Maybe the inner nut on the strut stem? Also not enough treads showing on the top to put plastic caps back on, both sides. HELP please!

[Joe.G]

Double check front strut mounts and that everything is installed correctly is all I can think of at the moment, Timing the bushings will settle the car some.


Before Alignment I really think you should add the BMR Adjustable Toe Rods and Trailing arms ( Non Adjustable )


I also needed the Detroit speed Caster bolt kit and the BMR Camber bolts to get my alignment to the specs I wanted. I only needed the Camber bolts because I am not lowered enough for the BMR LCA you should be okay with the Stock CA. Little Late to do UCA bushing since it is much easier with Cradle out.

[Back In Time]

Will check the front out again and have the BMR trailing arms and tie links on the way. Will get those in before the alignment Sat. Thanks Joe!

[acammer]

Don't forget, one of the biggest things you can do (bigger than any of the other swaybar/suspension stuff) to get these cars away from understeer and into a more neutral cornering state is to just square up the rubber. You would be surprised how neutral a completely stock SS is once you've got a 275/40/20 up front to match them in the rear.

[Joe.G]

Make sure the Toe Rods are the adjustable ones, need them if lowered. Also the Trailing arm only comes with one bushing you need to order the other one separate.

[Back In Time]

Well damn. Lol! I saw the non adj on trailing arms andordered toe rods AND arms non adj. I can’t read. With non adj toe rods on lowered car will I not get to needed alignment specs now? They are ordered now. If I go adj toes I really liked the features on the Spohn’s. Delrin in the rod ends and they articulate. Seems like a good product to me. Also on the tires I missed the boat there. I had already had rims powder coated and tires waiting when I saw The Book on 5th Gen suspensions by Pete. Next time or I may run these during cold months and get bigger rims and go sq setup. So would you install the BMR non adj toes or send back and get the adj? Thanks fellas