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Old 07-04-2011, 10:58 AM   #57
molloni
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Just as an update, my car went into the dealer on Wednesday, and because of the long holiday, and the fact that the body shop is separate from the garage (I have the spoiler chipping issue as well to take care of), I still have no car. But it was the heater core. I don't know the exact cause of the problem yet (be it bad hose fit or the core sprung a leak), but when I find out, I'll post again. It was disturbing to see the car is soooo many pieces. Like an autopsy, but without the blood.
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:40 PM   #58
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Last update - PLEASE READ THIS IF YOU HAD THE HEATER CORE REPLACED!

What they found was that the heater core had a leak somewhere in it. It really makes me wonder...can we say cheap parts from China? I don't know that for sure, but I can guess...Anyway, so they replaced the core, the body shop almost finished my spoiler (they are still waiting for an RS badge to replace the one they took off the trunk). I figured a good run would be to take the car on a 2.5hour trip with the family. Well, about 1.5hours into the trip, I started hearing running water behind the dash...I got a bit nervous and at first thought it was the coolant running through the pipes and the level was slow low that the pipes were not full, so it made the watery sound. Then I realized that the AC just was not quite cool anymore, and when I turned the fan up higher, the running water sound got faster! I realized that it was condensate building up so much that it was now partly submerging the fan!!! And the passenger's side floor was getting wet.

This was very familiar to me as last summer, I had the problem where the AC condensate line was blocked due to a collapsed grommet. You can see the thread HERE and post #10 shows the TSB on the issue. I had it rectified last year...and it seemed like I needed to do it again.

I brought the car back to the dealership on Monday (the trip back home on Sunday was a bit uncomfortable without AC...just ask my wife). And I explained to them that if they had to remove and reinstall the condensate drain line, then the grommet may have been squished again, and to try that first. After 45minutes, the service manager came to me and told me the car was ready and he was almost surprised that I knew exactly what was wrong.

So the moral of this story is this - if you had your heater core replaced, be sure to run your AC and make sure the condensate is draining. If it is not, the drain line and grommet will need to be checked.
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Old 07-19-2011, 08:39 PM   #59
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If you have the heater core problem will it just start leaking? Or by using the heater it will cause this problem?
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:32 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caligrown562 View Post
If you have the heater core problem will it just start leaking? Or by using the heater it will cause this problem?
The heater core is a small heat exchanger, just like the radiator. Coolant is always circulating through the heater core, as it is part of the whole cooling circuit from the engine, to the radiator, to the heater core. So, even if you're not using the heater, the core is still "working". What does change when you use the heater, is the fan turns on, and a damper (or "doorway") moves to let the incoming air go over the heater core to warm up the air.

So, to answer your question, it will just start leaking, regardless if you use the heater or not.
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:01 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by molloni View Post
Last update - PLEASE READ THIS IF YOU HAD THE HEATER CORE REPLACED!

What they found was that the heater core had a leak somewhere in it. It really makes me wonder...can we say cheap parts from China? I don't know that for sure, but I can guess...Anyway, so they replaced the core, the body shop almost finished my spoiler (they are still waiting for an RS badge to replace the one they took off the trunk). I figured a good run would be to take the car on a 2.5hour trip with the family. Well, about 1.5hours into the trip, I started hearing running water behind the dash...I got a bit nervous and at first thought it was the coolant running through the pipes and the level was slow low that the pipes were not full, so it made the watery sound. Then I realized that the AC just was not quite cool anymore, and when I turned the fan up higher, the running water sound got faster! I realized that it was condensate building up so much that it was now partly submerging the fan!!! And the passenger's side floor was getting wet.

This was very familiar to me as last summer, I had the problem where the AC condensate line was blocked due to a collapsed grommet. You can see the thread HERE and post #10 shows the TSB on the issue. I had it rectified last year...and it seemed like I needed to do it again.

I brought the car back to the dealership on Monday (the trip back home on Sunday was a bit uncomfortable without AC...just ask my wife). And I explained to them that if they had to remove and reinstall the condensate drain line, then the grommet may have been squished again, and to try that first. After 45minutes, the service manager came to me and told me the car was ready and he was almost surprised that I knew exactly what was wrong.

So the moral of this story is this - if you had your heater core replaced, be sure to run your AC and make sure the condensate is draining. If it is not, the drain line and grommet will need to be checked.
Did not have my heater replaced but I know #230 had the issue, took the TSB to them and they did nothing. 1 year later car smelled like a swamp and they proceded to ruin my car forever. Evey piece of plastic in my car was gouged, seats ripped and even dented the drivers side running board. After bitching they replaced a bunch of parts but dash still has a gouge in it and my car has rattles.
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:40 AM   #62
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My car is getting it replaced as we speak ( Heater core line )
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Old 07-20-2011, 09:24 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott@Bjorn3D View Post
Did not have my heater replaced but I know #230 had the issue, took the TSB to them and they did nothing. 1 year later car smelled like a swamp and they proceded to ruin my car forever. Evey piece of plastic in my car was gouged, seats ripped and even dented the drivers side running board. After bitching they replaced a bunch of parts but dash still has a gouge in it and my car has rattles.
Was your floor wet? And you had the TSB? You should have gone to a different dealer, if you could have (even a Caddy dealership will work on the Chevy). That sucks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gl2filmerguy View Post
My car is getting it replaced as we speak ( Heater core line )
So they know it's the line/tube for sure? Interesting - the service manager said it was an actual leak in the heat exchanger. Different problems are not reassuring, but then again, the manager could have been wrong...
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Old 07-20-2011, 11:38 AM   #64
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Quote:
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Was your floor wet? And you had the TSB? You should have gone to a different dealer, if you could have (even a Caddy dealership will work on the Chevy). That sucks!


So they know it's the line/tube for sure? Interesting - the service manager said it was an actual leak in the heat exchanger. Different problems are not reassuring, but then again, the manager could have been wrong...
Open your glove box and look through the left rear corner of the opening.
You can see the two lines going into the heater core.
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Old 07-21-2011, 11:55 AM   #65
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Well I got a call, and they too also scratched my ****ing dash, and ordered a new dash for me I guess. They fixed the line, but are waiting on the dash now. I hate having these dumbass having my car, because I don't want them driving it, because my car being so low, they will for sure **** something up. These guys could care less about someones car.
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Old 07-21-2011, 01:45 PM   #66
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hate to hear your stories guys. my dealer is filled with idiots as well and I dread taking it there for any warranty work which my car desperately needs :(
I thought I had a bad heater core but I guess not. I have a burning smell coming through the car sometimes and when I first cold start the car in the morning, it has a very loud buzzing sound, not sure what TSB this one is
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:40 PM   #67
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Mine was dash was also nicked, but they repaired it. They did an awsome job, you really can not tell, unless you are really looking for it.

I don't know what was wrong with my HEATER CORE, but I have had my car back for a couple weeks now and it's been fine. Also, NO RATTLES anywhere...YET.
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Old 10-15-2011, 08:37 AM   #68
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2010 ss, and heater coil went out last week. Windshield does have to come out. Question is why? I am worried about electrolysis. have experienced this before. search it on the net. IF there is a 0.3 volt reading in your radiator fluid, then the new core will go out shortly after replacing it. Test is simple. digital volt meter, car running, neg on battery, and positive probe in the radiator fiuld with out touching the sides. Directly in the fluid. check both ac and dc on the meter. if the voltage is greater than 0.3 volts, it will eat the heater coil up. Sound crazy, but its true.. AC Delco has a great article on it. search heater core failure due to electrolysis.
when I pick my ss up from the shop next week, I am taking my volt meter with me.
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Old 10-15-2011, 10:26 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landshark-ss View Post
2010 ss, and heater coil went out last week. Windshield does have to come out. Question is why? I am worried about electrolysis. have experienced this before. search it on the net. IF there is a 0.3 volt reading in your radiator fluid, then the new core will go out shortly after replacing it. Test is simple. digital volt meter, car running, neg on battery, and positive probe in the radiator fiuld with out touching the sides. Directly in the fluid. check both ac and dc on the meter. if the voltage is greater than 0.3 volts, it will eat the heater coil up. Sound crazy, but its true.. AC Delco has a great article on it. search heater core failure due to electrolysis.
when I pick my ss up from the shop next week, I am taking my volt meter with me.
Interesting and informative... be sure to share your results, after you get the car back.
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Old 10-15-2011, 10:39 AM   #70
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Question is what is causing the electrolysis?
There are additives out there that cut electrolysis or maybe GM has a recommended one.
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