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Old 11-15-2017, 02:09 AM   #1
WHAMMO

 
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Leaning torwards lightweight clutch upgrade

Since my drag wheels are comin in, I want to have a clutch that will hold more than 3 passes in 1 day without the pedal sticking to the floor.

I want to hit 11sec without problem and MORE IMPORTANTLY, I want to free up some HP and rotating mass, cause its a weekend warrior more than a track car. Need that rollin and rpm speed!

MY BACKGROUND;
I use to have a lightweight stage 3 Monster clutch in my 4th gen ( billet 18lbs IIRC). Car was rough to get movin from a start; it needed for rpm. Got used to it and liked it but no good in traffic cause the clutch would slip when too easy on it! Needed a beating!

Now my 5th gen is on the 'lean' side but still heavier than the 4th gen; 3780 vs 3450. I'm about to lose a good 100lbs with drag wheels and seat. My 4th gen had a 6.0l with ported LS3 heads. My 5th gen is cam/ boltons. Best ET 12.43@118.44mph in street trim 0-60ft 2.2sec 6 passes at the strip total.

I've read about the drivability and bad launching reps of lightweight flywheels but still want to give it a go.
GOALS;
-free HP,
-make quicker shift
. I know its supposed to fall faster not hit as hard but they are easier for the synchro and drivetrain.
-can take more of a beating
-easier high RPM shift
-hits harder when already movin?!!


CLUTCH WISH LIST
Knowing about the MOI(moment of inertia, which is help by having more weight closer to the shaft with twin discs or smaller clutch) here are my choices;

-QUARTER MASTER PRO SERIES 5.5" 2-Disc 860$! 12lbs!! :O or 13lbs in 3discs setup! wow! Dont know if the kit is complete...seems like their LS complete kit is a new thing, limited availability.

-Fidanza Qwik-Rev Clutch single disc.V2 42.5lbs and good for 850tq. 854$ cheap!

-Fidanza twin clutch 20lbs!!! 1250-1450$ freaking light!

-Mcleod RST; great rep, strong, great MOI and light at 35lbs with a fidanza alum flywheel 1450$(with flywheel). you can reuse stock flywheel but I dont want to.

-Ram twin 9.5; less good rep than Mcleod but cheaper. 38ish lbs. Around 1050$ with the flywheel!

-Monster twin seems heavier but I'd rather go with Mcleod at that price. Very good MOI it seems.

-ACT twin 1040$(no flywheel) looks as good as other big names. 44-46lbs Kinda on the heavy side but I guess a stock style weight flywheel.

-Spec super twin SS 1149$ flywheel included! no weight numbers :/ I love the 'no need' to shim or adjust, like all Monster clutch!

-Spec mini twin at 19.5lbs is very nice and 1484$ for the whole thing.

-Mantic clutch 7000 series triple disc is 12.5-13lbs clutch assembly only. so i guess 26lbs with an alum flywheel= 1750$. 9000 series 31.8-33lbs with their flywheel

-go back to a Monster single disc stage 3 with a 18lbs flywheel!? 720$ 43-44lbs I want something lighter..

-Some more reasonnably priced option!?

**Seems like all the twins are around 33-35lbs with alum flywheel**

All price are very very rough estimate. Some kits include some stuff others dont. I wish company would show the weight right off their site for their clutch..


I'm all ears! What am I missing?

Blackfriday comin!!
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Last edited by WHAMMO; 11-16-2017 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 11-15-2017, 11:27 AM   #2
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wow! santa's comin early looks like! just so you know the stock setup can take A LOT of abuse...ask Billy Sharp who won cfest this year runnin 10's...stock clutch, trans...etc...once you get your DR's?(I am lookin at movin to slicks) the launch changes all over again...I use this for clutch maint...http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html..only time clutch act's up on me is if I don't let it cool down between runs...otherwise I can and do shift at 7k at will...and she's gone as high as 8k(just touchs) on the burn out...after talkin to Bill and Bo(TB) White at cfest my launch is now at 5k plus and I am still tryin to dial in tire psi, clutch release etc...lot's of fun!...below is my last run...


with my mods no wheel hop(breaks axles) and I know the car has more in it, just waiting for me to get better! have fun and good luck!
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Old 11-15-2017, 11:34 AM   #3
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Nice video^^

Yeah well I did 3 runs , not even back to back cause I had to wait at least 20mins between runs because of car breakdowns, and was losing pedal on the last run. Gets hot pretty fast.

I shift at 7k and cam&boltons. The stock piece is really heavy, around 58lbs I think.
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Old 11-15-2017, 01:36 PM   #4
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Heads up on the RST: if you run anything other than a street tire you will kiss it goodbye at the strip. You'd want the RXT for drag racing.

When was the last time you bled your clutch? What is the current hydraulic set up? I noticed that after pressure bleeding mine that the pedal has yet to get light, even after making 4-5 passes at the track recently.

Check out the lingenfelter return spring too. I added that and removed the over-spring and the pedal has some feel to it now. Haven't tracked it since removing the over spring but I can tell that the engagement is improved and it doesn't feel like the pedal is springing back at you.
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Old 11-15-2017, 04:45 PM   #5
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Not happy with my RST... lasted 15k before it started slipping mostly Street driving and roll racing with one track day.
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Old 11-15-2017, 05:21 PM   #6
WHAMMO

 
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Nice feedbacks, keep it comin!!

Was your RST twin with alum flywheel or stock weight steel?

My hydrolic stuff is all stock, but I have a fluid reservoir mod and flush it very often with upgraded fluid Dot4 Racing Blue. I gotta admit my last trip at the strp the clutch fluid was dirty as hell.

Anyway hydrolic upgrade is just a temporary fix I heard...
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Old 11-15-2017, 05:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WHAMMO View Post
Nice feedbacks, keep it comin!!

Was your RST twin with alum flywheel or stock weight steel?

My hydrolic stuff is all stock, but I have a fluid reservoir mod and flush it very often with upgraded fluid Dot4 Racing Blue. I gotta admit my last trip at the strp the clutch fluid was dirty as hell.

Anyway hydrolic upgrade is just a temporary fix I heard...
The RST kit had a steel flywheel lighter than stock.I dont recall the weight though
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Old 11-15-2017, 07:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07-SRT View Post
The RST kit had a steel flywheel lighter than stock.I dont recall the weight though
I think they are 43lbs with the stock style flywheel and 33lbs with the alum. Makes sense because the stock flywheel is 23lbs and the alum is 12lbs
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Old 11-16-2017, 09:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WHAMMO View Post
Nice feedbacks, keep it comin!!

Was your RST twin with alum flywheel or stock weight steel?

My hydrolic stuff is all stock, but I have a fluid reservoir mod and flush it very often with upgraded fluid Dot4 Racing Blue. I gotta admit my last trip at the strp the clutch fluid was dirty as hell.

Anyway hydrolic upgrade is just a temporary fix I heard...
Hydraulic changes are kind of a band-aid, but so far the changes have made me think the clutch isn't half bad. I had a separate reservoir at one point and it made the pedal sticking issue worse. If I were you I'd try switching back to the shared reservoir for shiggles and see what happens. Can't hurt! More fluid takes longer to warm up and get dirty.
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Old 11-16-2017, 04:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS View Post
Hydraulic changes are kind of a band-aid, but so far the changes have made me think the clutch isn't half bad. I had a separate reservoir at one point and it made the pedal sticking issue worse. If I were you I'd try switching back to the shared reservoir for shiggles and see what happens. Can't hurt! More fluid takes longer to warm up and get dirty.
I think youre right about the small reservoir thing, guess its too small to take the abuse.

Its not that I hate the clutch, its more about freeing some hp and reducing weight. Im stuck at a point were heads are my only thing left to do and other things like electric water pump, vacuum pump, FAST 102 ported (not worth it at all IMO). So yeah heads are like 2550$ at best cuz I want aftermarket so I can up the CR and have max hp gains.

So I want the most out of my setup right now without opening it up. Lighter clutch is easier on trans/diff/DS etc. Plus weight reduction right on the crank!

I learned that Coyote have a stock 40lbs clutch setup. They just need to slap a alum flywheel and they get close to 30lbs. Thats real effective along with a carbon DS and drag wheels. It makes those boltons coyote pretty efficient and fast!! Especially compared to a heavy asss 59lbs stock LS3 clutch, heavier DS and stock 20" wheels!!!

So, I want my cake too!

Im waiting on a Spec mini twin price right now 19.5lbs
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Old 11-16-2017, 08:52 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by WHAMMO View Post
I think youre right about the small reservoir thing, guess its too small to take the abuse.

Its not that I hate the clutch, its more about freeing some hp and reducing weight. Im stuck at a point were heads are my only thing left to do and other things like electric water pump, vacuum pump, FAST 102 ported (not worth it at all IMO). So yeah heads are like 2550$ at best cuz I want aftermarket so I can up the CR and have max hp gains.

So I want the most out of my setup right now without opening it up. Lighter clutch is easier on trans/diff/DS etc. Plus weight reduction right on the crank!

I learned that Coyote have a stock 40lbs clutch setup. They just need to slap a alum flywheel and they get close to 30lbs. Thats real effective along with a carbon DS and drag wheels. It makes those boltons coyote pretty efficient and fast!! Especially compared to a heavy asss 59lbs stock LS3 clutch, heavier DS and stock 20" wheels!!!

So, I want my cake too!

Im waiting on a Spec mini twin price right now 19.5lbs
I hear you on making these cars lighter for sure. I have been eyeing the Monster Billet twin as a possible clutch upgrade once the stock clutch goes. I want to go a similar route and make the car more efficient so I've been looking at 19's and clutches recently as a way to lighten up the driveline. I'm starting to look into changing my gears to 3.91's or 4.10's as well. It takes a good bit to get these cars moving with the stock gears.

Those 5.0's can move thats for sure. The 11-14's can be wicked fast with few parts.
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Old 11-17-2017, 07:35 PM   #12
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Just watch out for Monster twin; its kinda on the heavy side; think its 42lbs or so but aint sure. Its got great MOI though. Just take your time to get all the specs since they do not advertise all their weight.

But keep in mind how far you wanna go for drivability. Im game to try something extreme and report!
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Old 11-18-2017, 01:31 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by WHAMMO View Post
Just watch out for Monster twin; its kinda on the heavy side; think its 42lbs or so but aint sure. Its got great MOI though. Just take your time to get all the specs since they do not advertise all their weight.

But keep in mind how far you wanna go for drivability. Im game to try something extreme and report!
Sounds good! 42 pounds isn't too bad from the 60 or so of the LS7. Probably a good starting point for me since I've never driven with a lightweight clutch before (or lighter than stock). I'll watch this for your review
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Old 11-18-2017, 07:52 PM   #14
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I would stick with mid 30lbs and not go lighter unless you have this as more of a track only vehicle. It will be a pain to drive below that and not everyone is willing to deal with that. I'd suggest driving a car with sub 20's before pulling the trigger on that. It will rev like crazy but would drive me crazy. Been looking for a light and fairly priced clutch too, I think some of these are made of gold. I'd prefer a quartermaster due to it's road race lineage but $$$$$$. I'm not sure if they're good for slipping at a drag strip though. There's multiple diameters, not just the one you listed. You also haven't listed the friction material which will drastically alter characteristics for the ones you have above. Full face vs puck, organic vs metallic vs carbon.
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