bushing inserts $28? ? ? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Spartan01 · 10-29-2014, 02:36 PM

OK,
I am confused.
I know what a bushing insert does, but I thought these were way more expensive.

Prothane Subframe Insert Kit,
at Jegs for $28.17
http://www.jegs.com/i/Prothane/311/7-146/10002/-1
aren't these supposed to be in the $150-200 range

any experts can show me what I am missing would be appreciated

xtreme industries · 10-29-2014, 02:55 PM

that's a great price, they just insert into the original bushing taking out the spaces provided by the manufacturer. they reduce movement, but not as much as full poly mounts and no where near a solid mount.

JDP Sales · 10-29-2014, 04:33 PM

We use them all the time locally. Prothane bushings are a fraction of the cost of their competitors. You want a really smoking deal, go for the full replacement bushings; Part # 7-142. They cost less than most inserts and are very high quality.

Another great bang for the buck are their radius rod inserts; Part # 7-239.

Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

mhog · 10-29-2014, 08:00 PM

Yes, go full bushing if you can. I just put the full Prothane bushings in this weekend. I had the inserts from an other company. The inserts are good but the full bushings are much better. All I did is lower the subframe and use the heat method to remove the factory bushings. I don't see any reason not to use the Prothane inserts or full bushings. The price is great.

X25 · 11-04-2014, 11:09 PM

I personally started thinking inserts are much better than full replacements. This way, you get to preserve the factory metal sleeve around bushing, which I think is crucial in preserving the bushing and its odd movement. The incredibly easy install and pricing is also the icing on the cake.

JDP Sales · 11-05-2014, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by X25

I personally started thinking inserts are much better than full replacements. This way, you get to preserve the factory metal sleeve around bushing, which I think is crucial in preserving the bushing and its odd movement. The incredibly easy install and pricing is also the icing on the cake.

I respectfully disagree. Even aftermarket full replacements utilize a new sleeve. The main point is getting rid of that huge, soft chunk of factory rubber. Filling the voids in the factory bushings will help marginally, but the real root of the problem is the OEM bushing itself. In my opinion, a full replacement polyurethane bushing would be a minimum, with a solid aluminum bushing being the best possible option.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

X25 · 11-05-2014, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDP Tyler

I respectfully disagree. Even aftermarket full replacements utilize a new sleeve. The main point is getting rid of that huge, soft chunk of factory rubber. Filling the voids in the factory bushings will help marginally, but the real root of the problem is the OEM bushing itself. In my opinion, a full replacement polyurethane bushing would be a minimum, with a solid aluminum bushing being the best possible option.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

I am still making up my mind about this, but when I was installed all the BMR upgrades, and later replaced them with the Z/28 counterparts, I realized the factory units always came with a very hard metal shell/sleeve or a metal shaft, so when properly torqued, they will never flex or deflect from their axis (even though the bushing itself may), whereas for the case of aftermarket bushings, even though they have a much better-suited material for a bushing, they are not encased in such a metal casing, meaning they will be subject to all sorts of additional forces far away from the intended angles of movement. This is the main reason for my concern.

Perhaps the best solution would be complete aftermarket control arms with bushings encased/protected in a metal shell for unintended deflections. I have not seen anything like that.

K1SSRSS · 11-06-2014, 01:39 PM

Wow, I'm glad I found this thread. Can anybody clarify for me, the cradle bushings are the same as the sub-frame bushings correct? BMR seems to be the only one that actually lists them as cradle bushings.

BMR Sales · 11-06-2014, 02:14 PM

I agree with Tyler, the Sub-Frame (or Cradle) Inserts are really a band-aid fix for the soft factory rubber bushings that deflect WAY too much. Don't get me wrong, there are certain applications where the inserts are a good upgrade. For instance a stock HP car that is strictly street-driven will certainly see benefits from using the inserts. But for anything else, which may see any kind of "performance" driving, a full-bushing replacement (whether it be poly or solid) is the best way to go. And the factory cradle bushings are not encased in a metal outer shell/sleeve, it's thin plastic. I've cut through many of them!!! They do have a soft metal inner sleeve that the rubber is adhered to and the bolt goes through, but that is different than the outer sleeve. Regardless, the factory cradle bushings leave a LOT to be desired, and the functionality of the inserts are somewhat "marginal" as well in my opinion. I personally do not recommend them to anyone who has a modified car or who drives agressively, whether it be on the track or street. Now, why these Prothane bushings are so much cheaper? To be honest, I don't have good answer for you! I could speculate on several different variables, but I can't (and won't) because they are a competitor brand for us. I just want to drive home the point that Tyler is trying to make, which is the full bushing replacements do perform a LOT better than the inserts.

BMR Sales · 11-06-2014, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K1SSRSS

Wow, I'm glad I found this thread. Can anybody clarify for me, the cradle bushings are the same as the sub-frame bushings correct? BMR seems to be the only one that actually lists them as cradle bushings.

Yes, Sub-Frame and Cradle are the same thing....tomatoe/tomato

Norm Peterson · 11-06-2014, 02:53 PM

How close is the fit between these inserts and both the contours of the OE rubber bushings and the outer shell?

I'm thinking that any gap would detract from the effectiveness of an insert because it represents an "easy place" for the distorted rubber to move into. Conversely, an intentional interference fit could enhance stiffness.

Are there any comparative stiffness tests readily available, as opposed to being proprietary data?

I've done a little tinkering with various bushings, sometimes to stiffen them up and sometimes to soften them in specific directions.

Norm

kjkjr27 · 11-06-2014, 03:08 PM

Hmm

10-29-2014, 02:36 PM	#1
Spartan01 Drives: Evil Eva, 2010 2SS LS3 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Falls Church, Virginia Posts: 3,600	bushing inserts $28? ? ? OK, I am confused. I know what a bushing insert does, but I thought these were way more expensive. Prothane Subframe Insert Kit, at Jegs for $28.17 http://www.jegs.com/i/Prothane/311/7-146/10002/-1 aren't these supposed to be in the $150-200 range any experts can show me what I am missing would be appreciated __________________ "You simply cannot trust quotes found on the internet." -Abraham Lincoln

10-29-2014, 02:55 PM	#2
xtreme industries Drives: 2010 Camaro 2lt RS Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Calgary, AB, Canada Posts: 548	that's a great price, they just insert into the original bushing taking out the spaces provided by the manufacturer. they reduce movement, but not as much as full poly mounts and no where near a solid mount. __________________ 2010 Camaro 2lt RS, IOM on IOM, M6, eibach springs, eibach sways, ported throttle body, black ice-olator, RX catch can, OBX headers - no cats, Pypes cat back, Vibrant resonators, injen intake, DRL over ride, decepticon fender emblems, transformer sill plates, transformer script on cowl, more to come.

11-04-2014, 11:09 PM	#5
X25 Drives: '16 C7 Z51 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 3,056	I personally started thinking inserts are much better than full replacements. This way, you get to preserve the factory metal sleeve around bushing, which I think is crucial in preserving the bushing and its odd movement. The incredibly easy install and pricing is also the icing on the cake. __________________ '16 Corvette C7 Z51 1LT (Build Thread) '14 AGM 1SS 1LE [COTW 11/17/14] (Build Thread) (SOLD) '13 Mazda MX-5 Club (Build Thread) '17 RAM 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 Night Edition '15 Nissan Rogue S AWD

11-06-2014, 01:39 PM	#8
K1SSRSS Chief Many Camaros Drives: A paid off Camaro!!! Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Las Cruces, NM Posts: 1,863 View My Garage	Wow, I'm glad I found this thread. Can anybody clarify for me, the cradle bushings are the same as the sub-frame bushings correct? BMR seems to be the only one that actually lists them as cradle bushings. __________________ 504hp/478tq Performance: Kooks LT, 3'' Exhaust, V-Max TB, Roto-Fab CAI, Custom Ported/Port Matched Heads and Intake Suspension: BMR Adjustable LCA's, BMR Trailing Arms, Poly Bushings, BMR Toe Rods Coming Soon (still in the box): Procharger F1R, G-Force Axles, 3:91 gears w/Eaton Truetrac

11-06-2014, 03:08 PM	#12
kjkjr27 COTW 9/16/13 Drives: 2011 2LT/RS Camaro IOM Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Syracuse Posts: 10,089	Hmm __________________ Twitch Youtube

10-29-2014, 04:33 PM	#3
JDP Sales Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 9,621	We use them all the time locally. Prothane bushings are a fraction of the cost of their competitors. You want a really smoking deal, go for the full replacement bushings; Part # 7-142. They cost less than most inserts and are very high quality. Another great bang for the buck are their radius rod inserts; Part # 7-239. Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007

10-29-2014, 08:00 PM	#4
mhog Drives: 2010 V6 Camaro 2LT/RS Join Date: May 2011 Location: NC Posts: 447 View My Garage	Yes, go full bushing if you can. I just put the full Prothane bushings in this weekend. I had the inserts from an other company. The inserts are good but the full bushings are much better. All I did is lower the subframe and use the heat method to remove the factory bushings. I don't see any reason not to use the Prothane inserts or full bushings. The price is great.

11-06-2014, 02:14 PM	#9
BMR Sales Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Seffner, FL Posts: 6,226	I agree with Tyler, the Sub-Frame (or Cradle) Inserts are really a band-aid fix for the soft factory rubber bushings that deflect WAY too much. Don't get me wrong, there are certain applications where the inserts are a good upgrade. For instance a stock HP car that is strictly street-driven will certainly see benefits from using the inserts. But for anything else, which may see any kind of "performance" driving, a full-bushing replacement (whether it be poly or solid) is the best way to go. And the factory cradle bushings are not encased in a metal outer shell/sleeve, it's thin plastic. I've cut through many of them!!! They do have a soft metal inner sleeve that the rubber is adhered to and the bolt goes through, but that is different than the outer sleeve. Regardless, the factory cradle bushings leave a LOT to be desired, and the functionality of the inserts are somewhat "marginal" as well in my opinion. I personally do not recommend them to anyone who has a modified car or who drives agressively, whether it be on the track or street. Now, why these Prothane bushings are so much cheaper? To be honest, I don't have good answer for you! I could speculate on several different variables, but I can't (and won't) because they are a competitor brand for us. I just want to drive home the point that Tyler is trying to make, which is the full bushing replacements do perform a LOT better than the inserts.

11-06-2014, 02:53 PM	#11
Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter Drives: 08 Mustang GT, 19 WRX Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Eastern Time Zone Posts: 6,990	How close is the fit between these inserts and both the contours of the OE rubber bushings and the outer shell? I'm thinking that any gap would detract from the effectiveness of an insert because it represents an "easy place" for the distorted rubber to move into. Conversely, an intentional interference fit could enhance stiffness. Are there any comparative stiffness tests readily available, as opposed to being proprietary data? I've done a little tinkering with various bushings, sometimes to stiffen them up and sometimes to soften them in specific directions. Norm