Heater Hose Relocation – V8 - Page 7 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

PFL · 06-02-2014, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caverman

For what ever reason GM decided to have the factory heater hoses run along side the intake. This is a sure way to cause some heat soak which is not what you want when running at the race track. The answer is to relocate them.

First off I have to give props to GMRULZ and Sack Rat for being the innovation on this mod. I referenced the following post initially and thought I would add more of a DIY flavor to it.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ose+relocation

This is a DIY specifically for using the generic 90 angle hoses. However, the Tech AFX should basically be the same. http://techafx.com/products/product_...products_id=47

The Tech AFX is a very nice looking piece. If you plan to run without an engine cover and want to dress up you engine bay I would go that route. It can be purchased directly from Tech AFX or someone like ADM Performance. The price of the Tech AFX ranges from $175 - $190 just for the heater hose kit.

I went down the generic route because I do use an engine cover and I was able to buy the two hoses off Amazon for $28.55 to my door and then $3 for a set of hose clamps from the local Auto store.

Thanks to BigRed585lbs I bought the Gates hoses off of Amazon. Instead of buying two 5/8” hoses I used the ¾” hose that has a ¾” flare on the angled side and 5/8” on the straight side. They are Gates Heater Hose #18077 and #18078. Notice the ¾” hose is a bit longer and will need more trimming to fit properly.

I also decided to use regular hose clamps on the firewall side since they really wouldn’t be seen much and would be easier to work with using a ratchet. For the water pump hoses I chose to use the factory hose clamps. They match up a little better with the rest of the engine bay and they are easy enough to work with.

The process is pretty straight forward:
1. Drain most of the radiator fluid. Use the drain plug on the lower part of the radiator on the driver’s side. Catch it in a container that you can use to pour back in when you’re done.

2. Take note of which hose goes to which section on the firewall and water pump.

3. Remove the factory hoses. I used a pair of long nose vice grips so that I could just clamp them on and move the clamp out of the way. The water pump hoses come off pretty easy but the hoses connected to the firewall are not as easy and there is limited room. I was able to get one side off with just some twisting back and forth but the other side didn’t want to budge. Instead of taking a chance on damaging the heater core, it made more sense to just cut it off. Using a box cutter I just cut a small slit and then peeled it off.

4. Since I used the Gates hose that had the ¾” inlet I need to trim it down because it was much longer than the 5/8” hose. I took about 2.5” off the end using a hose cutter. A box cutter will work if needed. Just try to make it as straight of a cut as you can. Make sure to position the hose clamps so that you can get to them as easily as you can. I put the 5/8” hose on first so that I could double check how much to take off of the ¾” hose. Remember, you can always take off more...you can't put it back on. I also sprayed a little WD-40 on my finger and rubbed it inside and around the hose opening to make it easier to put back on.

5. Run the hoses down though the ABS perch. It’s a tight fit especially when routing the second hose.

6. Measure up the hose to the water pump and trim off the extra length of the hose. Re-attach the factory hose clamps.

7. Add the radiator fluid back and allow the radiator to burp. Check the radiator fluid a couple times and then re-check the next day.

In the last pics it's hard to notice the hoses.....but that's the point. The engine cover and CAI draw your eyes away from the hoses going along the side. Again, this a performance thing to help keep your intake from heating up with a pair of hoses running 180+ degree water through it.

to conduct the hose to the housing stock below the abs would not be a problem too. someone tried to hose stock?? I'm thinking of doing. the way of water would be good?

PFL · 06-03-2014, 06:33 PM

Up

Pro Stock John · 01-16-2015, 08:51 AM

Great DIY, just ordered the hoses.

TwentyTen2SSRS · 01-19-2015, 06:27 PM

So did I. They just got in today and I'll see how it goes. The 90 degree turn part of the hoses are what go to the water pump side right?

FASTDIESEL · 01-19-2015, 06:57 PM

90s go on the heater core end. Look at the pics on page 1 of this thread.

This is on my list of things to do, along with the fuel rail flip.

Coolant is 5 years old and has over 100K miles on it. Guess it's time to change too.

TwentyTen2SSRS · 01-19-2015, 07:25 PM

Replacing with any specific brand? I might as wel do so as Wel

TwentyTen2SSRS · 01-19-2015, 09:37 PM

Also, where is the radiator Cap to drain? Do I have to jack car up and remove tire? Or easier way?

caverman · 01-19-2015, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwentyTen2SSRS

Also, where is the radiator Cap to drain? Do I have to jack car up and remove tire? Or easier way?

Look at post #1, picture 3 & 4. The drain plug it at the bottom left (driver's side) of the radiator. It's unscrews to let the fluid out.

Depending on how low your car is will determine if you have to jack it up or not. When my car was stock height I didn't need to jack it up. After the coilovers went on that would pretty much be the only way.

TwentyTen2SSRS · 01-20-2015, 12:41 AM

But to access the plug U have to get behind wheel well?

caverman · 01-20-2015, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwentyTen2SSRS

But to access the plug U have to get behind wheel well?

No, the radiator sits in front of the wheel well.

Take a look and you'll see it. Open your hood, on the driver's side locate the radiator, follow the radiator down from the outside of your car, and then look under the car. You'll see it.

TwentyTen2SSRS · 01-20-2015, 12:14 PM

Found it! Can't get this plug off to save my life. Does it twist or pull off? Tried heating it up and just won't budge

caverman · 01-20-2015, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwentyTen2SSRS

Found it! Can't get this plug off to save my life. Does it twist or pull off? Tried heating it up and just won't budge

It was a long time ago that I worked with it but I'm pretty sure it's a twist off and I don't think it comes completely out. Just opens up a drain. Not sure that I would use any heat because I think it is plastic. A heavy plastic but still I think it's plastic.

TwentyTen2SSRS · 01-20-2015, 07:51 PM

Got it finally it was a little more than half of a turn. Thanks so much! Took far longer than I anticipated and still not the best but at least not running over top of engine anymore

TwentyTen2SSRS · 01-23-2015, 08:11 PM

Damn I think I messed up - didn't route under abs cause I couldn't get to fit. Now can't get to fuel line to do fuel rail flip. What's that mean? I probably have to take it all apart again -

01-16-2015, 08:51 AM	#87
Pro Stock John Writer Drives: 2010 SS / 1967 Camaro Join Date: May 2009 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 7,216	Great DIY, just ordered the hoses. __________________ PROJECT HEAVY CHEVY Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I \| Part II 13.15@106 1.95 \| 100% Stock 12.37@112 1.85 \| + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune 12.06@113 1.70 \| + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune 11.84@115 1.59 \| + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts 10.90@125 1.47 \| + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800

01-19-2015, 06:27 PM	#88
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	So did I. They just got in today and I'll see how it goes. The 90 degree turn part of the hoses are what go to the water pump side right? __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

01-19-2015, 06:57 PM	#89
FASTDIESEL Drives: 2010 2SS/RS L99 SLP Cosmetics Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: West Tennessee Posts: 382 View My Garage	90s go on the heater core end. Look at the pics on page 1 of this thread. This is on my list of things to do, along with the fuel rail flip. Coolant is 5 years old and has over 100K miles on it. Guess it's time to change too. __________________ 13.244 @ 104.91 100% stock (#17). Now - Mike Norris catch can. 245/50/19 Firestone Wingfoot A/S on LT2 black powder coated rims (square). 1 7/8" Speed-Engineering LTH, off road pipes, tune. Now 12.93 @ 109.13.

01-19-2015, 07:25 PM	#90
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	Replacing with any specific brand? I might as wel do so as Wel __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

01-19-2015, 09:37 PM	#91
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	Also, where is the radiator Cap to drain? Do I have to jack car up and remove tire? Or easier way? __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

06-03-2014, 06:33 PM	#86
PFL Drives: Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Eua Posts: 344	Up

01-20-2015, 12:41 AM	#93
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	But to access the plug U have to get behind wheel well? __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

01-20-2015, 12:14 PM	#95
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	Found it! Can't get this plug off to save my life. Does it twist or pull off? Tried heating it up and just won't budge __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

01-20-2015, 07:51 PM	#97
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	Got it finally it was a little more than half of a turn. Thanks so much! Took far longer than I anticipated and still not the best but at least not running over top of engine anymore __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

01-23-2015, 08:11 PM	#98
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	Damn I think I messed up - didn't route under abs cause I couldn't get to fit. Now can't get to fuel line to do fuel rail flip. What's that mean? I probably have to take it all apart again - __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

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