Fix your rear camber after lowering for free!

[SUX2BU]

Ok, so after I slammed my car with the BMR 1.4" springs all the way around (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138193) obviously the negative camber was greatly increased. From reading a bunch of alignment threads I figured out that I wanted the front camber at -1.0* and the rear at -.5* for decent handling and great tire wear.

Well as most people that have lowered know, you more than likely, can not achieve the -.5* camber in the rear. The stock camber bolt just doesn't give you that much adjustment. The more you lower, the more your camber will be negative. In my case I lowered the rear 1.4" and my lowest amount of negative camber I could achieve with the stock bolt was -1.8*, pretty far from what i wanted. I looked at the after market bolts that give you more of a range in camber but being as cheap as I am, I could not pay $200 for a few bolts. Plus I don't know if they can give me the extra movement I need and I think (not sure, but this is the only ting I can think of) they achieve the extra movement by using thinner bolts and I wouldn't want to use a thinner bolt on such an important suspension point.

So, I studied the rear suspension and tried to figure out the easiest way to fix my camber issue. I came to the conclusion that if the upper control arm had just a hair of adjustment this would achieve what I wanted. I know my car will always be lowered (might go to coil overs later) so I decided to grind out the upper control arm bolt hole connecting to the rear spindle. I took some measurements, did some trigonometry and figured if I moved the bolt out 1/8" (this doesn't have to be super exact since you can adjust do get it perfect with the stock camber adjustment bolt, but REMEMER: a little movement here goes a LONG way, so don't go crazy with the die grinder) it would put me where I wanted to be. I ground out the clearance I needed and the welded the back section of old bolt hole so the bolt could not slide back to where it was. You could probably do this without welding but you would have to rig up something to keep the bolt from going back to it's stock location. Too much work since I have a welder I took the easy way out.

After doing both holes on each side i bolted everything back up and measured the camber again. With no other changes AT ALL my camber went from -1.8* to -0.3*. Now remember my stock camber adjustment was as far positive as it would go, so i just used that adjustment to get it to the -0.5* that I wanted.

NOTICE: changing this will also change your toe for both rear wheels, so make sure you check that after you do this.

The front camber does not need this type of modification unless you lower more than 1.4". I maxed out my camber adjustment and it put me exactly where i wanted it -0.999* and -1.012* on the front wheels.

Here are some pics.

[HaddadMotorsports]

Thats definitely one way to do it.

We have had very good success with the pedders eccentric bolts.
It is by no means a thinner bolt, the eccentric portion is simply more aggressive.
We have gone about as low as you can go, and I've never had a problem getting -1 out of them. In most cases I can go almost 0.

How and when were you taking measurements. The toes effect the camber dramatically, and vise versa. When you maxed -1.8 was the toe already dialed in?

Thanks
Mike Haddad

[BMR guy]

Great post and a super quick and easy solution if you can weld. You can essentially accomplish the same thing with the outer hole on the lower control arm too.

I just want to point out a few things to some people reading this who may be wary of our 1.4" lowering springs. For one the OP's vehicle is a convertible which is roughly 400 lbs. heavier than your typical SS. While we do approve our springs for this application, you will probably be outside of our recommended alignment specs on a convertible. We designed these springs to go as low as you can while still retaining the ability to align the vehicle (using a standard weight LT or SS). 1.4" was the maximum for the rear based on all our testing. Our camber recommendations for performance street applications is -1 degree +/- .2 in the front and -.8 degrees +/- .2 in the rear. While each car is a little different so we can't claim all, we have found that most (most meaning 90% of vehicles tested) can achieve specs within our recommendations when using our 1.4" springs.

Basically if you really want the lowest Camaro Convertible in town and can address the rear camber issues, you can use the 1.4" springs but if you want to bolt them on, use OE or performance alignment specs then you should probably run our 1" springs on your convertible.

I, for one, love the look of SUX2BU's car and praise him for his innovation and do-it-yourself fix however I do understand this isn't for everyone. Good job though!

[camarosspower]

Sorry for bumping this really old thread up bump it just seems weird to be that this thread is so short. Has anyone else done this with success? I would love to achieve 0 camber for the rear

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by camarosspower

Sorry for bumping this really old thread up bump it just seems weird to be that this thread is so short. Has anyone else done this with success? I would love to achieve 0 camber for the rear

Probably because Companies like ours have come with Camber Bolts that are inexpensive

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...576&superpro=0