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Old 01-23-2012, 08:09 AM   #169
Moreno1
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 572HP View Post
So I'm looking at relocating the evac solenoid. I'll need a new line from the evac line coming from the tank, and I'll need a new line going to the throttle body, or in my case the supercharger. What did you guys use as far as tubing and fittings? I'm going with the braided covering and want to use black anodized clamps/fittings where possible. Any help would be appreciated.
You can use your exiting EVAC line that goes from your factory hard line to the solenoid. When you relocate it, just redirect the line to the new location. If you need to cut it, take the end the fitting off the end and reinstall it on the shorten line.

For the black braided line and fittings, I used XRP http://www.xrp.com/ You can call them and get a local distributor in your area to supply with with what you need.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmbbl be View Post
looks great....

any chance you have a list of what it would take to reproduce the water line set-up you have in this pics
As I said, I used XRP, The black blocks on the second picture should be in today.... but before I give you what parts I used, let me come up with a final setup. I was measuring yesterday and this configuration might not work due to some other stuff that interferes. I'm might have to rethink the whole deal.

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Originally Posted by RocTrux View Post
RocTrux, thanks for posting, I might just go with that piece and scratch my idea, LOL.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:11 AM   #170
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Originally Posted by 572HP View Post
Definitely a big thanks for doing this thread!

Here is what I did yesterday and finished this morning. The driver's side is still left to do. I have cut and spliced/soldered every wire, used shrink tubing and braided sheathing.

Still need to relocate evac solenoid, paint coil packs, and get new coil pack bolts.

That looks killer....... we need more pictures!
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:05 AM   #171
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Nathan (and 572HP), I want to "clean up" some of my wiring harnesses like you guys did. However, I am not relocating anything, or repositioning anything, I just want to take off the crappy factory electrical tape and wrap it up in the braided sheathing (I'm assuming it is the "painless wiring" braided wire wrap on Summit). I like how you guys used the shrink wrap to secure the ends of the sheathing. My question is, is there any way to do that (use the heat shrink) without cutting the wires. I'm pretty sure that heat shrink tubing is not going fit over some of those big connectors to slide it in position before heating it up. Or is there a way to "de-pin" the connectors? I really just don't want to cut any wires. I suppose if the heat shrink won't work, I could just use zip-ties, but it wouldn't look as nice. Can you give me any tips???

Oh, and that MTI cross-over vapor tube looks killer, I think I might go that route too!!!
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:43 PM   #172
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Originally Posted by brantley847 View Post
...anyone aware if the rotofab radiator cover will fit the CAI intake?
Here is a pic of the Roto-fab radiator cover used with a CAI Inductions intake. Like our intake, they use a 6" radius elbow so the contour of the cover matches up nicely.



For those interested, our radiator cover fits with the Hennessey intake...

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Old 01-23-2012, 04:00 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 572HP View Post
Definitely a big thanks for doing this thread!

Here is what I did yesterday and finished this morning. The driver's side is still left to do. I have cut and spliced/soldered every wire, used shrink tubing and braided sheathing.

Still need to relocate evac solenoid, paint coil packs, and get new coil pack bolts.
Any tips on how to do that? I really would love to do that with those lines since I just got the Holley LS valve covers like that..
PM so we don't clutter!
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:42 PM   #174
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Originally Posted by blazzin1 View Post
I'm pretty sure that heat shrink tubing is not going fit over some of those big connectors to slide it in position before heating it up. Or is there a way to "de-pin" the connectors? I really just don't want to cut any wires. I suppose if the heat shrink won't work, I could just use zip-ties, but it wouldn't look as nice. Can you give me any tips???
Yes you can de-pin the connectors and run the heat shrink over the wire bundles. When doing this I highly recommend taking photos of each connector AND making a diagram on paper. In order to get the wrap or shrink tubing over the larger bundles/splices and spots where multiple connector bundles come together you will have to de-pin multiple connectors at one time. Just take your time and don't remove any wires or pins without being darn sure of where they will go back. Don't rely on a service manual, all-data, mitchell on-demand etc. I have run into multiple instances where they contradict each other or do not match how things were wired from factory. Good luck!

And Nathan, man you got guts cutting that hose in the kitchen, razor blading that granite countertop and putting a vise in there!!!! Things are lookin good though!
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:53 PM   #175
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Yeah, I took the long route. I did cut/splice all of the wires, and I used shrink tubing and solid braided sleeves. I haven't tackled the driver side yet...still recovering from the long weekend. The big reason that I did it this way was because I wanted to get rid of the huge coil-pack connector. The only way to do that is to splice. I can definitely understand not wanting to do that. I took my time and wrote everything down first, and took some pics. Then I got out the cutters and soldering iron. It took me probably 8 or 9 hours to do the passenger side. It isn't difficult, but it does take a lot of leaning over and reaching to the back of the engine.

Maybe it would be possible to use the split-sided braided sleeving and wrap good electrical tape very straight on the ends. I haven't tried it, but it might be a quick way to get that look.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:11 PM   #176
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For people not interested in cutting lines and completely relocating them you might want to check this out. It's a lot nicer, longer lasting, and protective than wire loom and you don't need to cut the harness up. It's the way I'll go when I finish up the upper part of the intake. A bit more money up front but no cutting of wires which is one of my personal goals.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russel...48918/10002/-1


I've also got a couple lines next to the rather large 2" primaries that I plan on wrapping with this but I need to finish all my other projects first before I start buying more stuff.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Thermo-Tec/The...74088/10002/-1

Last edited by Synner; 01-23-2012 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:32 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 572HP View Post
Yeah, I took the long route. I did cut/splice all of the wires, and I used shrink tubing and solid braided sleeves. I haven't tackled the driver side yet...still recovering from the long weekend. The big reason that I did it this way was because I wanted to get rid of the huge coil-pack connector. The only way to do that is to splice. I can definitely understand not wanting to do that. I took my time and wrote everything down first, and took some pics. Then I got out the cutters and soldering iron. It took me probably 8 or 9 hours to do the passenger side. It isn't difficult, but it does take a lot of leaning over and reaching to the back of the engine.

Maybe it would be possible to use the split-sided braided sleeving and wrap good electrical tape very straight on the ends. I haven't tried it, but it might be a quick way to get that look.
Thanks for sharing your experience and advice, I'll definitely take it into consideration when I start my clean-up project.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
For people not interested in cutting lines and completely relocating them you might want to check this out. It's a lot nicer, longer lasting, and protective than wire loom and you don't need to cut the harness up. It's the way I'll go when I finish up the upper part of the intake. A bit more money up front but no cutting of wires which is one of my personal goals.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russel...48918/10002/-1


I've also got a couple lines next to the rather large 2" primaries that I plan on wrapping with this but I need to finish all my other projects first before I start buying more stuff.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Thermo-Tec/The...74088/10002/-1
Thanks for showing this stuff Synner, the Russell Wrap stuff looks very similar to the Painless Wiring Wrap on the Summit Racing website. Looks like really nice stuff. Definitely in my future plans. But I'd still like to secure the ends with some shrink tube if possible.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:33 PM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC-V View Post
Yes you can de-pin the connectors and run the heat shrink over the wire bundles. When doing this I highly recommend taking photos of each connector AND making a diagram on paper. In order to get the wrap or shrink tubing over the larger bundles/splices and spots where multiple connector bundles come together you will have to de-pin multiple connectors at one time. Just take your time and don't remove any wires or pins without being darn sure of where they will go back. Don't rely on a service manual, all-data, mitchell on-demand etc. I have run into multiple instances where they contradict each other or do not match how things were wired from factory. Good luck!

And Nathan, man you got guts cutting that hose in the kitchen, razor blading that granite countertop and putting a vise in there!!!! Things are lookin good though!
Very good advice....thank you!
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:39 PM   #179
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The 3/16" stuff would be good for the small sections with only 2 wires like the coils as an alternative to heat shrink. Like I said my personal preference is to only cut a wire only when absolutely necessary. If there's one thing I hate trouble shooting later its electrical gremlins from a bad splice.

I'd definitely knock the pins out whenever possible. One of these tools and a micro screwdriver set will be your best friends.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/381-...1&zmap=381-087
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:43 PM   #180
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And a weather pack removal tool if you do a lot of car stuff.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PCO-0660PT

Last edited by Synner; 01-23-2012 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:02 PM   #181
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Man! a lot of good info on this tread. It's basically becoming what I envision it when I started it. Everybody sharing ideas were we can all learn from each other.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blazzin1 View Post
Nathan (and 572HP), I want to "clean up" some of my wiring harnesses like you guys did. However, I am not relocating anything, or repositioning anything, I just want to take off the crappy factory electrical tape and wrap it up in the braided sheathing (I'm assuming it is the "painless wiring" braided wire wrap on Summit). I like how you guys used the shrink wrap to secure the ends of the sheathing. My question is, is there any way to do that (use the heat shrink) without cutting the wires. I'm pretty sure that heat shrink tubing is not going fit over some of those big connectors to slide it in position before heating it up. Or is there a way to "de-pin" the connectors? I really just don't want to cut any wires. I suppose if the heat shrink won't work, I could just use zip-ties, but it wouldn't look as nice. Can you give me any tips???

Oh, and that MTI cross-over vapor tube looks killer, I think I might go that route too!!!
Blazzin, if you don't want to cut the wires, to heat shrink the ends, one option is using this tape. It's specific for harness. It also has less abrasive so it the glue wont ooze out when it gets hot. I put a roll of regular electrical tape so that you can see the difference. It feels and looks more like a cloth braided pattern.I will be using on everything I do.

Also, I think the Russell sheathing might look better with this tape since it has more a fabric look which would match the tape. I actually think I like it more than the Painless stuff I bought. The Painless is more of a nylon braiding. The only reason I didn't go with Russell's is because the largest they had is 3/4" and I wanted 1" for my main harness on the passenger side. Which I finished on Saturday and it looks SWEET! (Pictures to come) I 'm going to order the Russell stuff because I might be able to get away with the 3/4' now that I see how nicely and tight I have it. I'll give you a product review on both when I get it.

Hope that helps.





Quote:
Originally Posted by gl2filmerguy View Post
Any tips on how to do that? I really would love to do that with those lines since I just got the Holley LS valve covers like that..
PM so we don't clutter!
Don't worry about "cluttering" this thread, the only clutter we're worried about is in the compartment

Quote:
Originally Posted by NC-V View Post
Yes you can de-pin the connectors and run the heat shrink over the wire bundles. When doing this I highly recommend taking photos of each connector AND making a diagram on paper. In order to get the wrap or shrink tubing over the larger bundles/splices and spots where multiple connector bundles come together you will have to de-pin multiple connectors at one time. Just take your time and don't remove any wires or pins without being darn sure of where they will go back. Don't rely on a service manual, all-data, mitchell on-demand etc. I have run into multiple instances where they contradict each other or do not match how things were wired from factory. Good luck!

And Nathan, man you got guts cutting that hose in the kitchen, razor blading that granite countertop and putting a vise in there!!!! Things are lookin good though!
LOL, that granite stuff is pretty tough.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 572HP View Post
Yeah, I took the long route. I did cut/splice all of the wires, and I used shrink tubing and solid braided sleeves. I haven't tackled the driver side yet...still recovering from the long weekend. The big reason that I did it this way was because I wanted to get rid of the huge coil-pack connector. The only way to do that is to splice. I can definitely understand not wanting to do that. I took my time and wrote everything down first, and took some pics. Then I got out the cutters and soldering iron. It took me probably 8 or 9 hours to do the passenger side. It isn't difficult, but it does take a lot of leaning over and reaching to the back of the engine.

Maybe it would be possible to use the split-sided braided sleeving and wrap good electrical tape very straight on the ends. I haven't tried it, but it might be a quick way to get that look.
RESPECT 572, it is a lot of work, part of it is figuring it all out as you go. I agree, take your time, lots of pictures and notes, diagrams, etc...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
For people not interested in cutting lines and completely relocating them you might want to check this out. It's a lot nicer, longer lasting, and protective than wire loom and you don't need to cut the harness up. It's the way I'll go when I finish up the upper part of the intake. A bit more money up front but no cutting of wires which is one of my personal goals.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russel...48918/10002/-1


I've also got a couple lines next to the rather large 2" primaries that I plan on wrapping with this but I need to finish all my other projects first before I start buying more stuff.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Thermo-Tec/The...74088/10002/-1
That is some nice stuff, I will be ordering some tomorrow.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:12 PM   #182
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Nathan, great advice!!! Thanks. Where did you get that fabric harness tape? Who makes it? What's it called?
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