2013 MY Rebates? How to get best deal on new car?

[BluePhoenix]

Checked Chevy's website for 2013 Camaro rebates, all I see is 0% financing for 36 months. Are there any others out there available that I may have overlooked? Should I expect there will be more discounts on 2013's when September gets here?

Also have a question for those who have bought new. What are the best tactics to use to talk a dealer down on the price of a new car the best possible, especially when the car has been sitting on their sale lot for about 4-5 months?

[LStick]

Originally Posted by BluePhoenix

Checked Chevy's website for 2013 Camaro rebates, all I see is 0% financing for 36 months. Are there any others out there available that I may have overlooked? Should I expect there will be more discounts on 2013's when September gets here?

Also have a question for those who have bought new. What are the best tactics to use to talk a dealer down on the price of a new car the best possible, especially when the car has been sitting on their sale lot for about 4-5 months?

Just looked at the "Build a Camaro" feature of that website- still shows a 1500 dollar rebate , plus there are many other programs that you may or may not qualify for.
Plus after the 15th of the month, the same chevy.com website might spit a Private offer of $1000.00 at you if you're lucky.

Those, and the dealer should discount the car from MSRP to some extent, as its now one model year old as the 2014s are appearing on lots.

3/36month "special rates" are a shell game.As well as 0% for 72 months (if you are paying close to MSRP) Hardly anyone buying finances for 36 months, and when they do, banks usually aren't that far off the lowest of rates if your credit is good. If you finance privately or through a bank , you can stack the incentives into the purchase.

[BluePhoenix]

Well the car I'm looking at shows the $1500 rebate being available, what I'd like to see what types of program rebates are available on top, that could be applied with the $1500 discount. Contacted my local dealer about the rebates, so I hoping for the best.

[Egon]

People have written entire books on how to negotiate for the purchase of a new car, and there are some extremely informative websites out there as well. First be fully informed on the prices, MSRP and Invoice for the car you are looking for and all options. (Edmunds, Truecar, Kelley Blue Book etc. have all of the pricing info) Then wait towards the end of the month when dealer sale quotas need to be met and email/fax/call as many dealers as you can around your area and ask them for the best price on a car with the options you want. Then take the lowest offer and call the guy with the second lowest offer and ask them if they can beat it and then call the third lowest and see if they will beat that offer and so on and so on until someone says uncle.

The dealer obviously wants to make a profit no every sale, but if they only make $500 selling one to you they will probably make up for it by selling another one to a sucker where they make $5000. It’s the per vehicle average that is important, and even more important than that is that they make those sales quotas each month so they can get those big bonus checks from the manufacturer. Any dealer alive will willingly take a bath on 1 car if that means they make their quota and earn a $100,000 from the factory. If you happen to be that guy buying one of the last few cars that will put them over the top for the month you could make out like a bandit. Also keep in mind that this is the end of the 13 model year it is possible that there could be some significant factory to dealer incentives that no one but the sales manager knows about and they might be willing to dip into that to cut you an even better deal.

Only after you negotiate the price of the vehicle itself do you then negotiate your trade in if you have one. I encourage you to take advantage of the free purchase quote from places like Carmax and have that with you just in case the dealer tries to lowball you on the trade.

Know what your credit score is beforehand and line up your financing before you visit the dealer to sign the paperwork. Check with your bank or credit union and shop around online for a car loan. Once you know what financing you can get from a 3rd party when you go to the dealer and they ask you about financing let them know this is what you have been able to get and see if they can beat it. Sometimes they can sometimes they can’t, but you will never be at their mercy for financing if you do this.

Last avoid any of the costly extras from the dealership like undercoating, paint sealant VIN etching and the like. They are extremely overpriced and sometimes unnecessary. If you are not putting much money down and you do need GAP insurance check with your insurance provider. They will probably charge you a fraction of the cost that the dealer will.

September-December is a great time of the year to purchase a car. Sales are usually starting to slow down around this time and dealers are more willing to deal on stuff to meet those quotas. Good luck and please let us know how it goes!

[Bowtiepower00]

The $1500 is a given, and DON'T purchase until you get a $1000 private offer, an hour or two on the Chevy website will produce one. Most of the other rebates are really difficult to get, like bonus cash for leasing a competing make of vehicle, etc... There really isn't much left for the dealer to throw at you.

With good credit, 3% for 72 months is available through the dealer, assuming they don't tack on a couple of points to make more profit. Lower interest rates are available for shorter terms, but if you take the advertised low rate on 36months you lose the $1500 bonus cash.

Go to a site like cars.com and find the invoice price, and don't pay a dime more. And do not pay a dime for any protection plans, extended warrantees, paint protection packages, etc. Only additional fee should be doc fee, which covers tags and title, and then sales tax, depending on your area.

It's not rocket science, If they don't wanna deal, then walk, DO NOT play their games. Go in with print outs of invoice, your private offer, and any applicable discounts you also qualify for. DO NOT NEGOTIATE. Factor in the trade AFTER, if you have one, but make sure you walk in with blue, and black book trade in prices on said vehicle. Let them know you mean business. DO NOT give them your keys on the trade, go with them, keys IN YOUR HAND, and open the car for them. Again, after they start the car and check the odo/ SES lights, GET YOUR KEYS BACK.

Know your credit score, and look around (WITHOUT APPLYING for anything) to get an idea of what rate you qualify for before they run it. Over 725 should get you a killer rate. Over 800 and you qualify for anything you want.

There are plenty of good dealers that will not BS you. Talk to Becky, or any number of other dealers beforehand to get an idea of what they can do. A weekend trip is worth not dealing with crappy local dealers.

Finally, if a dealer is being an a$$hole, DO NOT be afraid to let them know, loudly, in the showroom, that they are full of $hit. It is NOT a negotiation, TELL them what you will pay, period, then walk out. It should be a FUN experience, not a nerve racking one.

[JimE]

The $1500 is the rebate...I don't know what else you really expect. There are a few other ways to save some money as noted in numerous topics here, but aside from the private offer you won't be getting anything else from Chevrolet.

[fsrtwo]

I just purchased a 1LT Cnvt, from Pohanka in Virginia. I did it over the internet. The price they gave me was $1000 "lower" than my bottom line price.. I was actually looking forward to negotiating, but when they did this, I didn't have to.

[Bruins0213]

I highly recommend you trying or finding a $1000 private offer.
When I purchased my camaro a few weeks ago, a nice guy gave me a private offer so it is important to check on the chevrolet website. Or check on this forum to see if anyone has gotten it and is willing to give it to people. When you negotiate I highly recommend you build your car on edmunds or cars.com and find what the avg people are paying. Find out the invoice and the MSRP price and you will have an idea if you are getting a good deal or not. Try to purchase it closer to the end of the month. Oh! and talk to the internet sales manager. Do not just walk in and talk with the sales people, for they will waste your time and try to negotiate a price that is at the MSRP price or higher. But right now is a good time to purchase a 13 camaro!

[BluePhoenix]

Yeah I'm trying to get the rebate now. I've been looking at a 2013 Hot Wheels Edition 6spd, and I've had two dealers willing to sell for about $41,300 & $41,497 after $1500 rebate. Deal seems pretty good but I want to check into it a tad further to make sure these two dealers aren't holding out.

[kevinw]

what is this 1000 private offer? never heard. i am looking at new 13 and 14. been looking at 2lt non rs black vert, 2013. 1500 rebate, dealer has at 34,300, and invoice per cars.com is 35,250. however when i looked at car, it has 58 miles, but was built in sept. 2012, so is a year old. will chevy rebate go up after 9/3? i may just order a 14 coupe if i dont pursue the vert. is nice but lots of blind spots. i was thinking of offering 33K if i pursue it. thanks!!

[BluePhoenix]

The $1000 rebate is supposed to be on 2013 models only, however we are all having a tough time getting one to pop up on Chevy's website. At $35,000 you could probably buy a used SS if you choose if not a new 2013 1SS. You may have your mind made up on a 2LT but you should make double sure that you wouldn't rather have the SS. I say that because there are too many threads here where people buy brand new v6's only to change their mind 6 months later and buy a used SS.

[kevinw]

thanks bluephoenix. all the new 1 SS verts are well over 40K here. i like buying new, my car will be daily driver. i am looking at coupe and verts, and even a 1ss coupe new with auto is too much. the gas mileage and summer only tires are issue. i have driven both the lt and ss, a friends, and i could live with either. but, the there is a 1500 rebate that i assume dealer would keep if car is below invoice. if i offer 33K and he keeps rebate, i still get the car 3259 below invoice.
and i also have 2300 in GM card earnings i would apply too, which cant do on used.

[kevinw]

if i end up ordering a new 2014, is invoice the best a person can expect?

[BluePhoenix]

Yes it will be. That's exactly what the sales person at the dealership I visited yesterday said as well.