Megamat and dynamat install pics! What a job! - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

ZX1truth · 09-19-2010, 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turborenegade

thanks ZX1truth. thats what i was hoping for. get me some ordered today.

You are gonna be extremely happy!

mrray13 · 09-19-2010, 11:10 AM

Looks good, and input should be low.

Matic · 04-26-2012, 10:13 PM

I've only got the trunk lid and most of under the rear deck done so far in about 5 hours. I'm going to be having dynamat nightmares tonight

Matic · 05-07-2012, 08:58 PM

I need to vent, but I wont create a whole thread for it...

I swear Chevy is purposefully making life hell for people who want great car audio. Climate controls attached to the stereo so you gotta buy an expensive dash kit, stock front speakers sealed in the housing so you gotta buy a new housing adapter for the doors, having to take out the backseat (a huge PITA from what I am reading) just to access the rear deck to put 6 x 9's in, and lastly, seemingly everything on the inside of the car made of thin plastic.

I spent a good 10-12 hours sound deadening my trunk (strategically, only covering places that needed it) and completely covering the underside of the rear deck. That was loads of fun! I paid to have my 6x9s install seeing how daunting the rear seat removal was and had them throw dynamat on top of the rear deck while they had the seat off.

I have a modest system, my 12's are wired at 4 ohms so im not getting the full potential of my monoblock amp, and I infrequently turn the bass on my head unit up, I mostly go for sound quality.

After all that time and effort with the dynamatting, I am getting an absolutely heinous rattle from what sounds like the paneling under the rear window in the backseat on the drivers side everytime I have a flat bassline. I can turn my bass and volume down, say at a red light, and its even worse. At first I thought it was the seatbelts, fastened those, but its still there. I am hoping now its the vents in the trunk and the sound is just traveling to the paneling in the backseat. I will find some way to get creative with sound deadening that without completely covering it. If it isnt that, im going to have to assume its the plastic paneling of the backseat hitting on metal. So I guess I either have to pay for the audio guys to remove it and lay some more sound deadening down (I wish i could just pay them to remove it and do it myself), or I guess find a buddy and try for the best to remove both pieces of the backseat.

Like I said, just needed to vent. I had absolutely no sound deadening in my last car, a cheaply made japanese import, and when I threw down all types of money it sounded better. In this case, even after sound deadening it sounds worse. I understand some rattle is inevitable when you have subs, but this rattle is a rattle from hell. Frustrating.

montej23 · 05-08-2012, 12:22 AM

Might be a simple fix like a 6x9 not secure

CWI · 05-08-2012, 02:16 AM

The rattle you have could be the trunk right by the back window. Some people have fixed that with a little weatherstripping. Could be vents in the trunk. I haven't been outside my car to hear for rattles outside yet. I don't get any rattles inside. I have two 12s with 1000 watts each. No rattles.

CrutchfieldBrooke · 05-10-2012, 12:48 PM

Looks like you put a lot of work into it, but sure it was worth the time! It's amazing how much difference it can make in a car. Although I haven't done my 2010 Camaro, my 68 has the floor lined and everything.

jmroslin · 09-28-2016, 06:03 AM

Bro can you update the pics?

Snoman · 09-28-2016, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmroslin

Bro can you update the pics?

It's a 4 year old thread & the pics still look fine.

Dizzy82 · 09-28-2016, 11:33 AM

Still need to do the rest of mine. I did the trunk deck, but not the trunk lid or underside of the 6x9s.

Snoman · 09-28-2016, 11:51 AM

jmroslin · 09-29-2016, 12:00 PM

Im sorry bro. . My browser wasnt showing any of tbe pic. I thought the links were broken. Everything looked good in my phone. . Sorry for the bother. And thanks

CapeCruisin · 09-29-2016, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snoman

snip

wow.

oldschoolkat · 09-29-2016, 01:52 PM

@Snoman...did u cut dynomat into squares or did it come on a sheet?..Good job on the install

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

09-19-2010, 11:10 AM	#16
mrray13 Drives: 2010 1LT RS Rally Yellow Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: southern Illinois Posts: 2,973	Looks good, and input should be low. __________________ *PacMan*

05-07-2012, 08:58 PM	#18
Matic Drives: 2011 Summit White LS Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: AZ Posts: 338	I need to vent, but I wont create a whole thread for it... I swear Chevy is purposefully making life hell for people who want great car audio. Climate controls attached to the stereo so you gotta buy an expensive dash kit, stock front speakers sealed in the housing so you gotta buy a new housing adapter for the doors, having to take out the backseat (a huge PITA from what I am reading) just to access the rear deck to put 6 x 9's in, and lastly, seemingly everything on the inside of the car made of thin plastic. I spent a good 10-12 hours sound deadening my trunk (strategically, only covering places that needed it) and completely covering the underside of the rear deck. That was loads of fun! I paid to have my 6x9s install seeing how daunting the rear seat removal was and had them throw dynamat on top of the rear deck while they had the seat off. I have a modest system, my 12's are wired at 4 ohms so im not getting the full potential of my monoblock amp, and I infrequently turn the bass on my head unit up, I mostly go for sound quality. After all that time and effort with the dynamatting, I am getting an absolutely heinous rattle from what sounds like the paneling under the rear window in the backseat on the drivers side everytime I have a flat bassline. I can turn my bass and volume down, say at a red light, and its even worse. At first I thought it was the seatbelts, fastened those, but its still there. I am hoping now its the vents in the trunk and the sound is just traveling to the paneling in the backseat. I will find some way to get creative with sound deadening that without completely covering it. If it isnt that, im going to have to assume its the plastic paneling of the backseat hitting on metal. So I guess I either have to pay for the audio guys to remove it and lay some more sound deadening down (I wish i could just pay them to remove it and do it myself), or I guess find a buddy and try for the best to remove both pieces of the backseat. Like I said, just needed to vent. I had absolutely no sound deadening in my last car, a cheaply made japanese import, and when I threw down all types of money it sounded better. In this case, even after sound deadening it sounds worse. I understand some rattle is inevitable when you have subs, but this rattle is a rattle from hell. Frustrating. Last edited by Matic; 05-07-2012 at 09:15 PM.

05-08-2012, 02:16 AM	#20
CWI Helping Build America Drives: 2010 2SS/RS,LS3 2013 Duramax 3500HD Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Freeport LPG Export Posts: 3,839 View My Garage	The rattle you have could be the trunk right by the back window. Some people have fixed that with a little weatherstripping. Could be vents in the trunk. I haven't been outside my car to hear for rattles outside yet. I don't get any rattles inside. I have two 12s with 1000 watts each. No rattles. __________________ Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy shit, what a ride!"

09-28-2016, 11:33 AM	#24
Dizzy82 Drives: 2011 1LT/RS A6 RJT SuperCharged Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: 87114 Posts: 3,503 View My Garage	Still need to do the rest of mine. I did the trunk deck, but not the trunk lid or underside of the 6x9s. __________________ Power is worthless without control. *The 2nd* protects the 1st.** BMR sub frame brace, BMR tunnel brace, LSR sways, LSR CM ca & tl, Sphon ExD el, GM tower brace, Megan EZ Streets, Goodridge Stainless Steel Braided brake lines, PowerStop D/S rotors & pads, Doug Thorty Ceramic Shorties, Magnaflow x-pipe, MRT V2.0, KICKER PowerStage sub & amp, Infinity speakers & tweeters, Viteese Throttle Controller, Viteese Paddle Shifters, ACS T2 Splitter, ACS T2 Ports/Quad LED lights, VDI kit, Havoc diffuser, IPF ECU/TRANS tuned, IPF/KPE Supercharged. 364RWHP/297RWTQ

09-28-2016, 11:51 AM	#25
Snoman H-Town Camaro Club Drives: 2013 Dusk Edition 2SS/M6/Sun/NPP Join Date: May 2014 Location: Houston Posts: 2,234 View My Garage	__________________ H-Town Camaro Club / HTCC Facebook / 2013 Dusk Registry

04-26-2012, 10:13 PM	#17
Matic Drives: 2011 Summit White LS Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: AZ Posts: 338	I've only got the trunk lid and most of under the rear deck done so far in about 5 hours. I'm going to be having dynamat nightmares tonight

05-08-2012, 12:22 AM	#19
montej23 Drives: 2011 VR Camaro Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Arkansas Posts: 974 View My Garage	Might be a simple fix like a 6x9 not secure

05-10-2012, 12:48 PM	#21
CrutchfieldBrooke Drives: 2010 Camaro, 1968 Camaro Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Norton, VA Posts: 333	Looks like you put a lot of work into it, but sure it was worth the time! It's amazing how much difference it can make in a car. Although I haven't done my 2010 Camaro, my 68 has the floor lined and everything.

09-28-2016, 06:03 AM	#22
jmroslin Drives: 2014 Camaro 2 LT Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Virginia Posts: 86	Bro can you update the pics?

09-29-2016, 12:00 PM	#26
jmroslin Drives: 2014 Camaro 2 LT Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Virginia Posts: 86	Im sorry bro. . My browser wasnt showing any of tbe pic. I thought the links were broken. Everything looked good in my phone. . Sorry for the bother. And thanks

09-29-2016, 01:52 PM	#28
oldschoolkat Drives: 2013 SS Camaro Join Date: May 2016 Location: Chicagoland area Posts: 223	@Snoman...did u cut dynomat into squares or did it come on a sheet?..Good job on the install Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk