Track Weekend Review of RacingBrake 2 piece rotors

[SPCBA]

so they said the can figure out getting 6 pots on stock ss size but it would be awhile and might require custom pads.

ss calipers 4 piston are in the works just have to figure the mounting hardware.

also they can make zl1/ctsv size calipers to match their rb zl1 size rotor.


any more questions anyone has?

[SPCBA]

Originally Posted by toehead93

Does anyone know if RB rotor rings will fit the 4piston caliber hub? I have the standard SS RB rotor, i amseriously considering ZL1 upgrade for my new 1LE when it comes in but I may consider addin RB rotors if i can reuse the hub and upraged the rotor ring.

if it can that would be sweet, you would have to contact them. then you can sell the old rotor rings if they are in good shape to a car show type guy

[So Cal Camaro]

I can tell you the CTSV/ZL1 Rotors will stop you far better than the stock SS calipers even with RB rotors. The ZL1 rotor is a two piece rotor, so the RB rotor will save a few pounds, but the ZL1 rotor has more pad to help with stopping...when I need rotors, I will be upgrading to the lighter RB rotors, but the CTSV calipers stop you now...with the right pads, lines and fluid, they are awesome...I recommend buying the JDP Motorsports kit, they have it all ready to install....don't forget to split the clutch resevoir if you have a manual...they have a kit for that too....

[SPCBA]

Originally Posted by So Cal Camaro

I can tell you the CTSV/ZL1 Rotors will stop you far better than the stock SS calipers even with RB rotors. The ZL1 rotor is a two piece rotor, so the RB rotor will save a few pounds, but the ZL1 rotor has more pad to help with stopping...when I need rotors, I will be upgrading to the lighter RB rotors, but the CTSV calipers stop you now...with the right pads, lines and fluid, they are awesome...I recommend buying the JDP Motorsports kit, they have it all ready to install....don't forget to split the clutch resevoir if you have a manual...they have a kit for that too....

i would love to see how my rb oem size setup compares to your ctsv setup heads up. I am genuinly curious. i will even shift and use some engine braking so its a apples to apples or you could do it without downshifting.

Bu that would require us to be at the same event. Saw you parked by registration last fontana day but never saw (met) you or your car again.

[So Cal Camaro]

Originally Posted by SPCBA

i would love to see how my rb oem size setup compares to your ctsv setup heads up. I am genuinly curious. i will even shift and use some engine braking so its a apples to apples or you could do it without downshifting.

Bu that would require us to be at the same event. Saw you parked by registration last fontana day but never saw (met) you or your car again.

Blake, I saw your Camaro on the track, sounds good racing by...I want the RB rotors when I need new ones, as I think the combo of CTSV Calipers with those rotors would be the complete package for stopping power....

I was just getting in a little autocross practice at Fontana before I took my car to Heidt's Performance Car Challenge in Joliet, IL...I won the autocross event there, so the practice must have helped me getting the coil overs dialed in. I think after the 3 black flags for people's cars dying on the track, I only got in five laps on the Road Course at Autobahn, and was mid pack with my numbers...My Camaro is going to be in the Midwest for much of the summer for various events, so will have to hit an event with you when I bring it back in September...

[Doc]

Originally Posted by So Cal Camaro

Blake, I saw your Camaro on the track, sounds good racing by...I want the RB rotors when I need new ones, as I think the combo of CTSV Calipers with those rotors would be the complete package for stopping power....

I was just getting in a little autocross practice at Fontana before I took my car to Heidt's Performance Car Challenge in Joliet, IL...I won the autocross event there, so the practice must have helped me getting the coil overs dialed in. I think after the 3 black flags for people's cars dying on the track, I only got in five laps on the Road Course at Autobahn, and was mid pack with my numbers...My Camaro is going to be in the Midwest for much of the summer for various events, so will have to hit an event with you when I bring it back in September...

This would be worth seeing.

Do you have the CTSV calipers on the back too or just the front?

[So Cal Camaro]

Originally Posted by Doc

This would be worth seeing.

Do you have the CTSV calipers on the back too or just the front?

Hi Doc, just the front are CTSV...the SS rear calipers are the same basic thing as CTSV/ZL1 and use the same pads.

[toehead93]

RB confirmed this morning via email with me that the SS hat will fit the ZL1/CTS-V rotor ring!! But they are $728/pair as opposed to $585 for the SS rotor rings so I'll just have to see on that upgrade. For now I have the following:

CTS-V yellow calipers (172-2521 & 172-2522) - $274 each
CTS-V front rotors (177-1105) - $214 each
CTS-V front brake pads (25940447) - $175

That is $1151 without shipping and I just need the pin kit and paint. I'm not sure for me and the amount I track that I will be doing RB rotors for an additional $728 but I do recommend them if you keep the stock 4 piston SS calipers!! Although it is just $300 more and it would save me the hassle of installing brake ducts for almost $100 and I get the added performance benefits. Best thing is you can always upgrade the SS rotor rings to the larger size if needed so they have that flexibility.

[JusticePete]

The larger pad and clamping area of a 6 pot caliper offers an improvement in actual distance and also in the consistency of stopping power when running at extreme loads on a road course. As mentioned earlier in the thread the variation in the size of the pistons produces even clamping across a larger pad. The strength of the caliper has a direct impact on stopping power. The better the design and manufacture of the caliper the stronger it will be. A full on NASCAR two pot setup is vastly superior to any production car brake.



Ducts are quite important as well. You have all seen pictures of glowing red hot rotors. The typical track pads have a max temp of 1200 degrees or less. The highest heat range pads are 2000 degrees. This chart is not specifically for brakes. It is a steel temperature by color chart.





Brown Red is 1100 Fahrenheit! You can check your brake rotor temp with Temperature Indicating Brake Paint. It is available here: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=4974

The ventilation design of any rotor is a significant factor in rotor temperatures on track. Assuming Racing Brake has the best design available, they will still run cooler with brake ducts fitted. The faster you go, the harder you brake the more heat you will generate. Calipers, rotors, pads and ducts are all essential for optimal performance.

[TBone]

Which brings up a really good point, where are the aftermarket brake duct kits? I know there are quite a few of us that would be interested in them.

T.

Go HAWKS!!

[toehead93]

There is a good DIY somewhere in here for brake ducts with all part numbers and prices. It is under $100 too. I would imaGine the Z/28 kit will available once it is out.

[JusticePete]

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=26

Originally Posted by 1977and2010

Here's some pics from my ducts. I used the idea from JohnM. It came out well. He posted pics on here and I just used those. the only thing was the pics still left a lot for me to figure out. like there is two little plastic pieces that I had to cut in the front air dam to run the hoses through. The NACA ducts come pretty big and have to be cut or sanded down a lot to fit against the lower grill. The lower grill does come out with some persuasion without taking the front bumper off. The NACA ducts are zip tied to the lower grill and held strong last December at Daytona even hitting a top speed of 158 mph. Routing the ducting was the easy part. The backing plates pop off with 3 bolts, drill a 2" inch hole where the air can get to the inner rotor vanes and weld that sucker on. Also the NACA duct comes in 3" and you need a reducer that doesnt have the greatest fit so I epoxied that after sticking a couple screw in for good measure. They really can't even be seen unless they are pointed out.
Part #s
2 SPA-D103B 3"- 2 1/2" NACA duct adapter $13.99 ea
1 THE-SS200 2" silicone ducting 11' section $52.99
2 SPA-D100 single small bumper, black NACA duct $15.99 ea
2 2" O.D. exhaust tube, 4 worm clamps, zip ties

Attachment 480920

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Originally Posted by bannonm

Took some time Sunday to start the brake duct project. Very similar to what 1977and2010 and many other have done. I am using a 2-1/2 hose instead though. While a 2 inch hose would definitely be easier to route, I want the larger diameter because eventually I'll make some parts from fiberglass to replace what is routed along the frame. I'll only need a short section of duct tubing from the frame to the dust shield, and from the front NACA ducts to the fiberglass ducting. Right now I need something for a big track outing in May and need this working.

So here what I used from Racer Parts Wholesale. I like their ducts because of the plastic they use can be formed by heating it up. You'll see what I mean in a few pictures what I did with the bumper duct.

2 - SPA-D103A 3" to 2-1/2" NACA Duct Adapter
2 - SPA-D107 Small, Black Air Duct for Bumper, Spoiler or Small Area
1 - THE-SS250 2-1/2" Silicone Ducting- 11' Section
2 - The short steel pipe used to connect to silicone ducting to the dust shield is just a 2-1/2" muffler connector bought at Autozone.

This is the bumper duct cut and bent to fit in the lower air dam.



Using a heat gun, a couple of pieces of aluminum and vise grips I carefully bent the duct. This was done to fit the angle in the lower air dam to give it a finish look.



Here's the backside of the air dam marked off for where I will make the cutout to fit the bumper duct.


Backside of air dam after cutting. Used a dremel with a cutting bit which made it quick and easy.


This is the bumper duct mounted to the air dam.



This is what it looks like from the front. You can see on the right side where the bumper duct that was bent fits over the angled part of the air dam. This helps support it as well.



Here's how the duct attaches to the dust shield. I'll mark the shield up, cut the hole and weld the round tube to it. I'll be taking the shields off because I need to replace the dust shields on my calipers anyway. I can then trim off some extra metal and paint them up nice.



So I'll need to run the duct below the control arm instead of going over it. The 2-1/2 hose will get crushed with the suspension compressed; a 2 in hose might make it through there but my feeling it is will rub also.



I took a bunch more pictures, but this should give you guys some more food for thought. Most of these implementations have been similar, so nothing earth shattering with mine. The only thing I will do differently in the future is to design a duct system made of fiber glass to run along the
frame and avoid the issues with the control arms. For now this will have to wait, time to get on the track.

[ss/rs-matt]

Originally Posted by toehead93

RB confirmed this morning via email with me that the SS hat will fit the ZL1/CTS-V rotor ring!! But they are $728/pair as opposed to $585 for the SS rotor rings so I'll just have to see on that upgrade. For now I have the following:

CTS-V yellow calipers (172-2521 & 172-2522) - $274 each
CTS-V front rotors (177-1105) - $214 each
CTS-V front brake pads (25940447) - $175

That is $1151 without shipping and I just need the pin kit and paint. I'm not sure for me and the amount I track that I will be doing RB rotors for an additional $728 but I do recommend them if you keep the stock 4 piston SS calipers!! Although it is just $300 more and it would save me the hassle of installing brake ducts for almost $100 and I get the added performance benefits. Best thing is you can always upgrade the SS rotor rings to the larger size if needed so they have that flexibility.

Are these GM parts numbers and where can I order from?

[TBone]

toehead and JP,

I have seen all of the DIY threads about brake ducts on here but all of those push air at the back or one side of the rotor. Not to take anything away from the awesome efforts that these folks have done but I would think that pushing air at both sides of the rotor would be better. So that is why I ask about the after market thinking that they could come up with a better design that would push the air at both sides of the rotor or the topside so that both sides of the rotor would get air.

I have heard rumors that a couple of places are close with this type of design. IF not, I am going to go down and have BannonM help me out since he is local and a great guy.

T.