Aftermarket clutch?

[BBQdDude]

2010 2SS M6 ONLY

When dragging I am getting the sticking clutch syndrome. Dealer replaced secondary, clutch pedal and even talked them into a new clutch plate. Still happens. I am told by others go aftermarket. I am making 425 at the wheels. I think I will end up around 600WHP.

Soooo keeping the above in mind which clutch kit should I run with?

[james347]

If you don't have one, get the Ideal_Garage Clutch master-cylinder and the Tick Stainless steel clutch line.

https://www.facebook.com/idealgaragellc

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...010-v8-camaro/

I went with the ZR-1 Clutch. So-far-so-good.

[Camper]

Mantic

[MikeOD]

Originally Posted by james347

If you don't have one, get the Ideal_Garage Clutch master-cylinder and the Tick Stainless steel clutch line.

https://www.facebook.com/idealgaragellc

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...010-v8-camaro/

I went with the ZR-1 Clutch. So-far-so-good.

I have nothing bad to say about the Ideal Garage master cylinder, but if you don't need it, you don't need it (and Jerry will tell you that too). A sticking pedal is not the same problem as grinding during shifts because the clutch isn't fully released. The internals of the stock master and the one Ideal Garage modifies are the same, he just allows it to throw the piston further...I actually ran into it throwing my Exedy twin plate too far and removed it, stock one in and working now.

There's a LOT of choices for clutches, I saw a recommendation for Mantic above...a friend is running a Mantic in his C5 ZO6, and it's a fantastic clutch, drives great, pedal feels nice, and grabs hard. As I mentioned I'm running an Exedy (that's rated for 850 ft*lbs that I'll probably never put through it) and I am very happy, it's smooth on the street, and launches great on the ET Streets.

Alleviating the sticking pedal, in my opinion, involves getting rid of heat, and maybe adding a return spring. I have the brand new stock master and slave, the Tick shielded/braided line between the 2, a ZL1 pedal (OEM return spring) with an SS pedal cover on it so it blends in, and I run Motul fluid...it does not stick to the floor anymore. It did when it was stock/low mileage, pretty bad a couple times. Has not done it since the parts/fluid were changed over.

[BLACK10]

we install a lot of Mantic clutches and i even ran one myself. they work great with high hp and i have not heard one person say that they had a stuck pedal after installing one!

[dekan821]

get a gto res. and flush the clutch fluid fixed my sticking problem. or just suck out what u can before u go racing

[Synner]

What fluid are you running? Switch to Motul RBF600 or other top tier fluid.
Use the tick line.
Bleed it regularly.
The return spring mod may be beneficial.

A replacement clutch may or may not fix anything depending on the true issue. However the McLeod RXT seems to be a good unit from my research.

[BBQdDude]

Now I was led to believe that being a diaphragm style clutch was the issue. Fluid peddle and clutch plate only has 3k miles on THIS set lol.

[BBQdDude]

Originally Posted by Synner

What fluid are you running? Switch to Motul RBF600 or other top tier fluid.
Use the tick line.
Bleed it regularly.
The return spring mod may be beneficial.

Stock OEM provided fluid with about 3k on it.
Return spring semi worked. Still gave once so only a band aid in my situation.

[Synner]

Stock fluid is crap.

[MikeOD]

Stock fluid is total junk, and a big part of the problem...keep it in a seperate reservoir (so it's easier to flush/bleed) and fill it with good fluid like the Motul that 2 of us mentioned.

[Bo White]

Largest part of the problem for the pedal sticking to the floor is the factory pressure plate. #2 is the fluid contamination.
Everyone that has an aftermarket clutch and keeps their fluid flushed never has a problem
A return spring is a terrible band aid solution for the problem. All your doing is pulling the slave cylinder off the pressure plate, sure your pedal is back up but the pressure plate is still not fully disenguaged sometimes. The pressure plate has two main jobs:
To apply pressure to the disc and to apply pressure to the slave cylinder.
With a return spring on the pedal you do remove the weight of the pedal off the slave cylinder but that's it. Clean fluid is easier to transfer than contaminated of course. Aftermarket clutches are simpler made than the stocker by not having the stupid self adjuster built into it that locks up once it gets some crud in it(which is the root cause of the pedal sticking).

[uniqueskillz]

Do a search on here for the street slayer clutches. There amazing.

[2010SSRSM6]

I'm running the ACT twin disk and don have the issue anymore and I'm between 622-658 depending on the dyno.

If I had to do it over, I'd pass on the ACT and go with a McCloud RXT. Smoothest clutch I've ever driven on and soft as stock, if not a little softer, which is great for traffic. Spend a few extra $$$ and get the flywheel.


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