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Old 12-05-2014, 07:42 PM   #197
Aero_Sport_Concepts
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Originally Posted by Camaro Dude View Post
Excellent news!!!

What kind of clutch fluid did they use now?

I'm assuming it's the oem DOT 3 naturally.

Question: are you flushing it out in favour of DOT 4? If so, are you using that bleeder method and DIY?
Ya Balue did you ask to have a bleeder install. Would have been a great time why it was apart
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Old 12-05-2014, 07:54 PM   #198
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Yes they used standard dot3 I will be flushing with 4 and am picking up a mightyvac to to do that DIY on a REGULAR basis!
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Old 12-05-2014, 08:14 PM   #199
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Slave failure would be hard to see with the eye. Part tolerances are very tight so doesn't take much to screw them up. This has been the main culprit in many reads I've been watching. This is the main reason of keeping fluid clean as the dust that gets into the system from the throw bearing is abrasive and break down the shims in the slave
Agreed, but in this particular case scenario, we have seen failures with people using the two separate reservoirs as well.
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Old 12-06-2014, 12:48 AM   #200
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Remote Bleeder

not sure if i shared this earlier
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337717

it is not that hard, just takes a bit of patience.
HOWEVER, if you are the type that throws wrenches when stuff does not go right, this is not for you. take it somewhere and pay someone else to do it.
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Old 12-06-2014, 01:14 AM   #201
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Originally Posted by h018871 View Post
not sure if i shared this earlier
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337717

it is not that hard, just takes a bit of patience.
HOWEVER, if you are the type that throws wrenches when stuff does not go right, this is not for you. take it somewhere and pay someone else to do it.
Very nice!
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Old 12-06-2014, 01:49 AM   #202
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Stumbled into this now. http://youtu.be/uuwR1Sp9J94

Key learnings for me:
1/leave some fluid in reservoir
2/throw away the half can of fluid when you're done.
3/plan to do this 5 times in a row
4/pump 30-40 times
5/dirt in the system will cause your pedal to stick to the floor

Hmm,


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Old 12-06-2014, 05:39 AM   #203
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Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
Stumbled into this now. http://youtu.be/uuwR1Sp9J94

Key learnings for me:
1/leave some fluid in reservoir
2/throw away the half can of fluid when you're done.
3/plan to do this 5 times in a row
4/pump 30-40 times
5/dirt in the system will cause your pedal to stick to the floor

Hmm,


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I've been doing this since the beginning. I installed the seperate resivoir about 500 miles in. Actually I think I'd did the catch can and the resivoir at the same time.

I flush mine every couple of months. Aside from the one time I described earlier I've had no problems with the clutch.

When the time comes for a new clutch I will add a bleeder and the billet replacement slave cylinder sleeve.

I usually end up pulling the fluid about 5 times and I only pump about 20x. Coincidentally I use that same syringe. I have some tubing on the end of it though.

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Old 12-06-2014, 09:25 AM   #204
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I've been doing 1-2 exchanges only and 25 pumps. I have a similar syringe but I totally empty the reservoir. And I've had dot 4 open for a long time.


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Old 12-06-2014, 09:32 AM   #205
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Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
I've been doing 1-2 exchanges only and 25 pumps. I have a similar syringe but I totally empty the reservoir. And I've had dot 4 open for a long time.


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Yeah I also empty it all the way and I use the quart size of the Valvoline Synthetic 3 & 4 brake fluid with no issues.

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Old 12-06-2014, 12:29 PM   #206
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Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
I've been doing 1-2 exchanges only and 25 pumps. I have a similar syringe but I totally empty the reservoir. And I've had dot 4 open for a long time.


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You have essentially lowered the wet boiling point. By how much is anyone's guess, but in theory, it has been lowered, make no mistake about that one.

This is the precise reason why I will be using the over priced Castrol SRF fluid. Its wet boiling point is rediculously high compared to the competition, so it no doubt allows more room for error down and forgiveness down the line, particularly in track conditions.

Also, like X25 pointed out in the past, those separate aftermarket clutch reservoirs do seem to be a tad too small, which no doubt allows heat to set in quickly. Yet an other reason perhaps to use a product with the highest possible wet-boiling point out there?
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:12 PM   #207
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I feel like I go through the fluid fast enough to not worry about the boiling point roo much. I usually go though a bottle in less than 2 months. I end up cycling though about 6 - 10 of the resivoir fills until the fluid is clean enough for me.

This thread does make me wonder if I should go back to the common brake/clutch resivoir.

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Old 12-06-2014, 04:16 PM   #208
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.....This thread does make me wonder if I should go back to the common brake/clutch resivoir.

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Or perhaps, a much larger separate reservoir as opposed to that present small dinky looking one?
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:28 PM   #209
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Or perhaps, a much larger separate reservoir as opposed to that present small dinky looking one?
That's probably the best option...

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Old 12-07-2014, 03:44 PM   #210
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So after much waiting and having my car at the dealer here's what's going on. This Doc is from GM's field engineer. I was a bit confused as i don't and have never used launch control mode, after it being explained a few times to me here's what GM want's us to do. First thing the FE said is they want us using DOT4 for the track(both clutch and brakes)then changing back to DOT3 for the street, apparently that is somewhere in out manuals, he said he knows nobody does this. As far as the clutch goes and the meaning of the launch control mode is, they dont us feathering the clutch on decel and downshifting, they want us dumping the clutch as if we were starting off in launch control. He said this puts too much heat in the clutch to be feathering the clutch on downshifting.

As for what i might be paying for, as i have said i have a personal working relationship with the service manager and if he can find anything when they tear my car apart that he can blame on the problem(like clutch slave etc.)he will warranty it, he say's the same thing, this car is marketed as a "TRACK CAR" He has to turn the parts in so he is accountable for what he finds. If the clutch plate is warped then that is considered wear and is caused from excessive heat and i will have to pay. I will be ordering the tick bleeder as well as the Stainless braided clutch line since my tranny will be dropped, he said he will install those for free. Is the ZL1 clutch the same as ours?
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...p-04-07-cts-v/
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...014-camaro-ss/
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