12-05-2014, 07:42 PM | #197 |
aerosportconcepts@gmail
Drives: '15 1SS-RS/1LE (RRM) Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Menifee, SoCal
Posts: 1,387
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Ya Balue did you ask to have a bleeder install. Would have been a great time why it was apart
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12-05-2014, 07:54 PM | #198 |
Drives: 2013 SW 2SS/1LE Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 316
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Yes they used standard dot3 I will be flushing with 4 and am picking up a mightyvac to to do that DIY on a REGULAR basis!
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12-05-2014, 08:14 PM | #199 | |
Drives: ‘13 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Earth
Posts: 3,904
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12-06-2014, 12:48 AM | #200 |
Geoff
Drives: 2020 ZL1 Green Join Date: May 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,720
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Remote Bleeder
not sure if i shared this earlier
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337717 it is not that hard, just takes a bit of patience. HOWEVER, if you are the type that throws wrenches when stuff does not go right, this is not for you. take it somewhere and pay someone else to do it.
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12-06-2014, 01:14 AM | #201 | |
Drives: '16 C7 Z51 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Redmond, WA
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Quote:
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12-06-2014, 01:49 AM | #202 |
Drives: 2013 2SS 1LE NPP GBE Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Bay Area, online, & in my 1LE
Posts: 2,667
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Stumbled into this now. http://youtu.be/uuwR1Sp9J94
Key learnings for me: 1/leave some fluid in reservoir 2/throw away the half can of fluid when you're done. 3/plan to do this 5 times in a row 4/pump 30-40 times 5/dirt in the system will cause your pedal to stick to the floor Hmm, -CRT Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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12-06-2014, 05:39 AM | #203 | |
Drives: Black '13 2SS/RS/1LE w/NPP/NAV Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa by way of Miami...
Posts: 4,934
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I flush mine every couple of months. Aside from the one time I described earlier I've had no problems with the clutch. When the time comes for a new clutch I will add a bleeder and the billet replacement slave cylinder sleeve. I usually end up pulling the fluid about 5 times and I only pump about 20x. Coincidentally I use that same syringe. I have some tubing on the end of it though. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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12-06-2014, 09:25 AM | #204 |
Drives: 2013 2SS 1LE NPP GBE Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Bay Area, online, & in my 1LE
Posts: 2,667
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I've been doing 1-2 exchanges only and 25 pumps. I have a similar syringe but I totally empty the reservoir. And I've had dot 4 open for a long time.
-CRT Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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12-06-2014, 09:32 AM | #205 | |
Drives: Black '13 2SS/RS/1LE w/NPP/NAV Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa by way of Miami...
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Quote:
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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12-06-2014, 12:29 PM | #206 | |
Drives: ‘13 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Earth
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This is the precise reason why I will be using the over priced Castrol SRF fluid. Its wet boiling point is rediculously high compared to the competition, so it no doubt allows more room for error down and forgiveness down the line, particularly in track conditions. Also, like X25 pointed out in the past, those separate aftermarket clutch reservoirs do seem to be a tad too small, which no doubt allows heat to set in quickly. Yet an other reason perhaps to use a product with the highest possible wet-boiling point out there? |
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12-06-2014, 04:12 PM | #207 |
Drives: Black '13 2SS/RS/1LE w/NPP/NAV Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa by way of Miami...
Posts: 4,934
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I feel like I go through the fluid fast enough to not worry about the boiling point roo much. I usually go though a bottle in less than 2 months. I end up cycling though about 6 - 10 of the resivoir fills until the fluid is clean enough for me.
This thread does make me wonder if I should go back to the common brake/clutch resivoir. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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12-06-2014, 04:16 PM | #208 |
Drives: ‘13 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Earth
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12-06-2014, 04:28 PM | #209 | |
Drives: Black '13 2SS/RS/1LE w/NPP/NAV Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa by way of Miami...
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Quote:
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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12-07-2014, 03:44 PM | #210 |
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So after much waiting and having my car at the dealer here's what's going on. This Doc is from GM's field engineer. I was a bit confused as i don't and have never used launch control mode, after it being explained a few times to me here's what GM want's us to do. First thing the FE said is they want us using DOT4 for the track(both clutch and brakes)then changing back to DOT3 for the street, apparently that is somewhere in out manuals, he said he knows nobody does this. As far as the clutch goes and the meaning of the launch control mode is, they dont us feathering the clutch on decel and downshifting, they want us dumping the clutch as if we were starting off in launch control. He said this puts too much heat in the clutch to be feathering the clutch on downshifting.
As for what i might be paying for, as i have said i have a personal working relationship with the service manager and if he can find anything when they tear my car apart that he can blame on the problem(like clutch slave etc.)he will warranty it, he say's the same thing, this car is marketed as a "TRACK CAR" He has to turn the parts in so he is accountable for what he finds. If the clutch plate is warped then that is considered wear and is caused from excessive heat and i will have to pay. I will be ordering the tick bleeder as well as the Stainless braided clutch line since my tranny will be dropped, he said he will install those for free. Is the ZL1 clutch the same as ours? http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...p-04-07-cts-v/ http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...014-camaro-ss/
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