11-29-2012, 01:56 AM | #1 |
LS3
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Rear end hopping?
I have a 35th anniversary LS1 vert lowered on eibach sport springs with 17/18 C5 Vette wheels. Now my question is if the ASR is off and the back tires start spinning I have to let off because the rear end just starts hopping like crazy. What causes this and how can I fix it?
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11-29-2012, 02:04 AM | #2 |
Drives: '02 Trailblazer, '12 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AK
Posts: 819
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common problem, and I am no pro, do a search and you'll find tons of info. What you will probably read about is the rear trailing arms, tie rods, and weak Sub frame bushings. Apparently wheel hop is common and a relatively easy fix.
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11-29-2012, 02:44 AM | #3 |
ROAD COURSE JUNKIE
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he has you on the right track. I would suggest talking to one of the vendors here on the forum and they could tell you what you should replace and how much it will cost...as well as what will fit your budget to best solve your problem.
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11-29-2012, 05:45 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2000 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Louisville, Ky.
Posts: 25,179
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Wheel hop is a violent and potentially damaging condition that typically occurs when the car is launched aggressively and is very simply a rapid and repeated loss and recovery of traction. When a car begins to accelerate various bushings and suspension/chassis components deflect. Under normal driving conditions this flexing is negligible but when the car is launched aggressively the deflection causes significant toe changes which reduce the contact patch of the rear tires. This leads to a reduction in traction and momentary wheel slippage which alleviates the toe changes and allows the rear tires to regrip. The vicious circle then continues as the suddenly improved traction again results in deflection and toe changes leading to wheel slippage. The frequency of the cycle is so rapid that it feels like the rear of the car is riding on jack hammers.
Getting rid of wheel hop is pretty easy for most Camaro SS owners. It is all about limiting the movement of the rear wheels in relation to the chassis under acceleration. The main culprits for the flexing are: rear sub frame bushing differential bushings rear trailing arms toe rods Sometimes upgrading any one of these things can fix it, sometimes it takes all of them. It all depends on your car and how you use it. If you have any other questions feel free to shoot me a PM or give us a call. |
11-29-2012, 06:09 AM | #5 |
Drives: 93GMC sierra stepside/ ctsv3 Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 914
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^ Do in the order Chase put down
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11-29-2012, 07:45 AM | #6 |
All bushings fatigue over time and your 2002 probably needs some new bushings anyways plus changing to urthane will be like having a new car again.
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11-29-2012, 10:59 PM | #7 |
LS3
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I knew I'd get to the culprit by posting on here. I'm sure y'all are correct as this beaut is 10yrs old.
Thanks guys! |
11-30-2012, 10:30 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,860
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Check www.Spohn.net for your 4th Gen. needs!
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11-30-2012, 02:59 PM | #9 | |
Drives: His Wife Crazy Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Silas Deane Auto,CT Name: Rob Anderson
Posts: 1,789
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Quote:
None of the 5th gen parts are info is going to help a whole lot. Spohn is the way to go on the 4th gen, If you are interested in more info them let me know, we are a dealer for their products. |
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12-03-2012, 06:13 PM | #10 |
BL1ZZRD
Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 7,840
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I still have some wheel hop even though I replaced the trailing arms, outer bushings, and cradle inserts. I'm doing 3.91's this winter so I'm also replacing the differential bushings. Should I also replace the toe rods while I'm at it? If so, should I get the fixed or adjustable? I drive spirited street and possibly a couple road course/autocross events next year.
OP, I'm not too familiar with 4th gens but what Apex said makes a lot of sense to me! |
12-03-2012, 06:29 PM | #11 | |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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Quote:
It wouldn't hurt to do the toe rods from what I've researched. Your alignment might also make a difference. If you do your toe rods you'll need an alignment to use the specs from either Pedders or Pfadt to get an aggressive street alignment.
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal |
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12-03-2012, 07:23 PM | #12 | |
BL1ZZRD
Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 7,840
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Quote:
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12-03-2012, 11:28 PM | #13 |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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I bought the fixed length ones. I think the adjustable would be for fine tuning.
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal |
12-04-2012, 07:38 AM | #14 |
BL1ZZRD
Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 7,840
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