07-26-2014, 05:28 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2Ss M6 Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,013
|
GM parts for my FE4 conversion or an aftermarket brand?
The car is a weekend driver at this point. I'm doing a good bit of engine modification and now I want to put my $ towards building the foundation. The FE4 conversion seems to be the best route so I'm wondering.. do i go with GM for the conversion parts or by aftermarket. I don't plan on drag racing or road coursing so what can you recommend to me?
I have little knowledge about suspension modification. |
07-26-2014, 05:31 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2Ss M6 Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,013
|
Also, the car is pretty well planted as is with 315's in the rear and 275's up front on a 20x11 and 20x10 wheel.
|
07-27-2014, 07:12 PM | #3 |
Paul
|
With Pfadt and Pedders out of the game does anyone else offer a FE4 style alternative?
__________________
|
07-27-2014, 08:49 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2Ss M6 Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,013
|
|
07-28-2014, 10:48 AM | #5 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
|
An FE4 Suspension upgrade is a terrific mod to do to the earlier FE3 cars. Which route you take (OEM vs. Aftermarket) should really be based on your budget and goals for the car. Going the OEM route is undoutbedly less expensive and will still provide a noticeable difference in handling. However, aftermarket components will without a doubt outperform the OEM components, and give you 3-way adjustability on the front and rear sway bars to fine tune your suspension. If you're looking for the best handling suspension, whether it be for the track or street, then aftermarket is the way to go. I would recommend using the SB039 Sway Bar Kit, which includes the FE4-style rear sway bar and the front sway bar already pre-drilled for the larger 12mm studs. Just because you don't have electric steering doesn't mean that you can't use the SB038 front sway bar included in the SB039 kit. I just installed the SB038 on my 2010 SS, no interference anywhere!!! The biggest decision is whether to use the BMR LCA's or stick with the OEM LCA's. When comparing the two, the differences in strength and quality is very obvious. The non-adjustable TCA028's are designed for lowered vehicles only (because they are slightly shorter than OEM), and must be used with adjustable toe rods. The TCA028's will provide very close to stock alignment specs using the factory eccentric bolts only. The adjustable TCA029's will provide a very wide range of camber adjustability for obtaining "performance" alignment settings. BMR does not offer an aftermarket FE4 rear end link replacement. We like and suggest using the factory FE4-style rear end links. We will be releasing FE4-style front end links (larger 12mm studs) within the next week or two.
|
07-28-2014, 11:25 AM | #6 |
Good info. Subscribed.
__________________
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS | RotoFab CAI | ARH 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ HFC | SW Retro Exhaust | ZL1 Shifter | Ridetech Coilovers | FE4 conversion | UMI toe rods & trailing arms | Prothane Subframe & UCA bushings | Detroit Speed sways | Forgestar F14 wheels | ZR1 Blue Calipers | Tuned by ADM Performance SSeric's Build Thread |
|
07-28-2014, 11:34 AM | #7 |
'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,694
|
I went with BMR sway bar kit, 1" lowering springs, OEM FE4 update (with OEM Lower Control Arm - LCA), and the adjustable BMR Trailing Arms/Bushings.
I'm doing the LCA this week and also upgrading the the front swaybar links with the FE4 update (I have to drill the 12MM hole in the struts). The OEM LCA will have the new location for the link so when I install the rear BMR sway bar, it will have a happy home with the new LCA. Trailing arms are the adjustables -- like them since my car is lowered. JDP (Tyler) helped me get what I needed and worked out the package deal for me. I did the work myself and found the instructions and job very doable with the correct tools. Love the difference and new lowered look: -Don Last edited by hammdo; 07-28-2014 at 12:00 PM. |
07-28-2014, 11:45 AM | #8 |
ROAD COURSE JUNKIE
|
BMR or Detroit speed are the way to go. OEM would work as well but with the power you are planning on making I would want something a little stronger just to Cover my ass.
__________________
|
07-28-2014, 06:01 PM | #9 |
Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 9,621
|
BMR and Detroit speed are the best options for sway bars. Those making more power can benefit from an LCA upgrade; BMR and DSE have good options, but the factory LCAs are pretty good. DSE also offers some good endlinks for the front and rear.
Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007 |
07-28-2014, 06:45 PM | #10 |
Suspension is gonna be my next upgrade. You know who I'll be calling, Tyler!
__________________
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS | RotoFab CAI | ARH 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ HFC | SW Retro Exhaust | ZL1 Shifter | Ridetech Coilovers | FE4 conversion | UMI toe rods & trailing arms | Prothane Subframe & UCA bushings | Detroit Speed sways | Forgestar F14 wheels | ZR1 Blue Calipers | Tuned by ADM Performance SSeric's Build Thread |
|
07-28-2014, 06:54 PM | #11 |
Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 9,621
|
|
08-01-2014, 12:04 AM | #12 |
'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,694
|
|
|
|
|
|