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Old 10-19-2013, 07:14 AM   #71
Blackkaz04

 
Drives: 2006 Z06
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Old 10-19-2013, 03:44 PM   #72
kwhizz
 
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Got the Brake lines finished up today and bled the brakes also......Didn't do too bad.....had about 13 brake line connections and only had 12 leaks..........Another thing off the list....





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Old 10-24-2013, 12:21 AM   #73
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Well.........It seems that me and the rear brake God have some issues......Complete Wilwood system including Master Cylinder.......I bench bleed the master and had to "Work" it to get the rear system bubble free.........the front cleared up with a couple of pumps.........So.....everything installed (all new brake lines)and gravity bled till I got some help to finish the job........Bled the fronts and when opening the bleeder valve it was like a water fountain and the pedal went to the floor as it should.......Great!!......go to do the rears and I would get a couple of drops and the pedal stayed right where it was......Hummm!!!.........either side didn't make a difference.........Hummmm!!!............So....I'm thinking maybe the adjustable proportioning valve is the issue......so I crank it in to give it maximum flow........go to bleed them again......same thing ......a couple drops of fluid without any pedal drop.......So......I call Wilwood and talk to one of the tech guys.........After conversation with them I learned that even with the proportioning valve at full flow.....it only allows 57% of volume thru......so......Today I decided to remove the prop valve..........while I was making a new brake line I decided to do the bench bleed again.....after removing the brake line I put my thumb over the port and worked the pedal thru the steering column hole.....I got some pressure but not enough to blow my thumb off the port......Hummm!!!.......So.....I finish up and install the new line and again....in bleeding the rear I just get a couple of drops with no pedal drop...............Am I missing something???.......It would seem to me that the M/C even though new could be bad....

On another note.....I ordered the wheels today...........and tomorrow I should receive the balance of my Dakota Digital order so I can continue on with the wiring.........I also got all the belts installed and tensioned correctly.........And.....In checking out the pan clearance with the steering arms......It seems I not going to have any clearance issues......(But...the suspension is still unloaded).......



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Old 10-24-2013, 12:54 AM   #74
NightmareZL1
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This build is the stuff of legends! Awesome work.
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Rotofab, grinding rear diff sound forever, dealer replaced supercharger - now i have a rattle when starting from a stop, ordered 2.35 lingenfelter pulley, hp tuner, belt, 100mm idler pulley, tr7IX spark plugs, wideband kit, long tubes with no cats...hoping for 650hp. dyno with rotofab = 518hp
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:45 AM   #75
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Here's the wheels I ordered.........Grey centers and brushed rims..........
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Old 10-24-2013, 08:06 AM   #76
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Amazing work! I will follow this closely. I wanted to cry when you pulled out the 396 but I understand what your doing. Please continue to keep us updated. I am working on a 66 marina blue SS as well but nothing near this. Thanks
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Old 10-24-2013, 12:16 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VcrusaderV View Post
Amazing work! I will follow this closely. I wanted to cry when you pulled out the 396 but I understand what your doing. Please continue to keep us updated. I am working on a 66 marina blue SS as well but nothing near this. Thanks

Believe me it wasn't easy to turn that first wrench to start the dis-assembly.......But......as you get older the time it takes to start with a beater and get back to the finshed Body/Paint condition as this one makes the whole project a lot more enjoyable!!! (Been there!!!!!)

Ken
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Old 10-24-2013, 02:23 PM   #78
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Can't believe I just saw this build!! This is going to be sweet!!!
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:23 PM   #79
KaBoom1701
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WOW!

This car is going to be a beast!

Awesome!
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:46 AM   #80
kwhizz
 
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Another one of those little things that get stuck in the back of your head that you know will become a problem downstream because it's going too smooth just popped up........Now that I'm going to pull the engine for the last time (Hopefully) and tie up some loose ends......I decided to go back and check the tie rod to oil pan clearance that everyone else has "Issues" with....I didn't have any ......I had a slight contact in one direction but plenty of clearance when turning the other direction.....so....I noticed the center drag link wasn't centered with the engine and I thought I could get away with adjusting the tie rod ends to get everything centered and have clearance...........so.......I check everything again today and notice that the rotors didn't look like they were turning far enough.......so I start thinking about the turning radius not being sharp enough which would then shorten the drag link travel from side to side..........So.....I check to see where the steering arm stops contact the lower control arm..........Hummm!!.......I measure the Ridetech contact point and it's approx. 2 1/4" from the stop surface to the center of the ball joint..........I get out my stock lower arm and measure it at 1 1/2" ....Hummmmm!!!!.......I'll call Ridetech on Monday.....Better to deal with it now than after the engine is plugged in and all the accessories are on...........Maybe I'm making a mountain out of a molehill again...........
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Old 10-27-2013, 10:37 AM   #81
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Ken,

I truly appreciate you documenting this build/journey for all of us. I for one wish I had your talent and tenacity for a build of this magnitude and quality. Thanks and God speed sir. I can't wait to see it done.

Cheers

Charlie
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:45 PM   #82
kwhizz
 
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Well.......The day started out with me calling Ridetech and asking about the steering stops hitting way before the stock position and this was taking away from the turn radius of the car (again.....from the ball joint C/L to the stop surface on the lower control arm........Stock GM is 1 1/2".........Ridetech 2 1/4 inches.........)I sent pictures as requested and haven't heard anything since............I need to get this resolved so I can modify the pan for drag link clearance if req'd.........
The next issue was the trans cross member.........It seems that when the previous owners added the Turbo 400 trans they did the Hillbilly cut and weld to make it fit......so after looking and figuring out what to do with it.......I decided to make it bolt into the stock frame location and holes......and it ended up that the rubber trans mount ended up right in the middle of the crossmember...........so we made a new detail and cut and welded it together.....brought it home and it fell into place........then..........the new Wilwood Master cylinder showed up.....I knew the old one had some issues ( cause I are Smart)........opened up the new one , Bench bled it for a half hour .........not a hint of air and it seemed this one has more flow to the rear chamber.....so.....I knew this was gonna be easy..........Stick it on the car , bleed the fronts....no problem.......go to do the rear.........Same thing........no pedal drop while bleeding and just a few drops of fluid out of the bleeder and No clamping pressure at all on the rear rotors.........Darn!!!..........Time to start breaking the new lines apart and look for a restriction somewhere...........(a smart person would have probably done that B4 buying a new Master).......I also got the new Holley Pan Baffle assy that was recommended.......















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Old 10-28-2013, 08:05 PM   #83
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I also changed my mind on the wheels I ordered.......Final Pick.....LOL
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:20 PM   #84
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Can't wait to see the finished product! Thanks for sharing!!!!!!
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