Camaro upgrades how-to's

[silversleeper]

I wish to post in this thread some tips that might help others if they are considering the same upgrades. First up will be the subwoofer
GM Camaro 200 Watt Kicker Powered Subwoofer Install instructions

Kicker 200 Watt Powered Subwoofer Kit 19303112 priced around $550.
I am cost conscious so I intended to buy a cheaper box. Reviews had the non-OEM stuff failing in a few months. I had experience with generic boxes unsecured flopping around in the trunk which I don't want again. The other thing is some others drain too much power while "off". This doesn't it senses a signal then powers up. I'm sure it draws some power while it is off but not so much to cause a dead battery quickly like others. I'm willing to pay a couple hundred more to avoid all that and have something reliable that fits like a glove.


The reviews that best describe the results are that it fills in missing bass. It is strong enough to shake the rear view mirror. It doesn't thump like 12" or 14" subs that take the air from your lungs and shake your body as they thump.
Overall I'm happy with the results, kit, price and ease of installation.
I didn't even KNOW this song had strong bass until I installed this sub;

Tracy Chapman Fast Car




Some parts are in the instruction bag like the small harness some people say is missing. It plugs into the white input plug. There are 3 distinct Camaro stereo options. Z28 with no rear speakers, Standard stereo and Premium Boston Acoustics. I have the B A.
The instructions that come with it are half good and half missing.
They reference running the input cable to plug into the head unit if you don't have B A.
I like that it has a reasonable power amp that is exernal and the enclosure fits perfectly into the space not taking up much trunk space or flopping around unsecured. It has good reliability reviews.
Installation: It includes inline splices that you clip onto the nearest two speaker wires as pictured. There are multi blue wires, use the nearest to rear of vehicle pictured.
I prefer to attach the splices to one set of wires before trying for the hard to reach ones on the speaker. I pre cut some insulation and use pliers to push the wires in the tiny slot.

I used sidecut pliers to notch the +battery terminal and spare tire cover to clear the wiring better.
The sub sits on a rubber piece that threads onto the former mat hold-down post. The upper part has a bracket that you screw onto the upper holddown bracket. Then you put an included bolt through it so to remove you can unplug the harnesses, take out the top bolt and lift it off the lower rubber post that's included in the kit.
Note: I was playing this song off amazon music through bluetooth and it lost the bass that it had from the USB mp3 of the same song. I might be able to change bitrate on amazon to help this but keep that in mind if you are expecting bass or testing the system.

[Joecruiser]

Great write up...answered a lot of questions I had. Thxs

[silversleeper]

Thanks Joe
Next topic is how to properly check the transmission fluid level. I ordered the JRE transmission fill tube and dipstick to make this easier but also wanted to know what the GM procedure is. I'll post it from pages 9969 on the service manual. Note, the thing that looks like the drain plug is actually the "fill to this level" sort of thing if it is warm, not cold or hot, and you've shifted thru the gears and have it running in park, then pulling the plug would drain excess fluid. JRE recommends running more fluid than the GM level indicates (1 quart more?)
He has not made it clear how the dipstick he offers is marked.

[silversleeper]

Battery voltage drain problem generator weak short in wire accessory draining battery testing procedure. Today's post will be the manual to determine if voltage draw is normal or not and why your battery keeps going down. Included is simple generator test information. Note that the system doesn't go into sleep mode immediately. I noticed a recent post about that his drain on battery was too high but it was because it wasn't in sleep mode so this information will help determine if there is or not a parasitic drain too high on the battery: here goes 8pages

[Ck1984]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

I wish to post in this thread some tips that might help others if they are considering the same upgrades. First up will be the subwoofer
GM Camaro 200 Watt Kicker Powered Subwoofer Install instructions

Kicker 200 Watt Powered Subwoofer Kit 19303112 priced around $550.
I am cost conscious so I intended to buy a cheaper box. Reviews had the non-OEM stuff failing in a few months. I had experience with generic boxes unsecured flopping around in the trunk which I don't want again. The other thing is some others drain too much power while "off". This doesn't it senses a signal then powers up. I'm sure it draws some power while it is off but not so much to cause a dead battery quickly like others. I'm willing to pay a couple hundred more to avoid all that and have something reliable that fits like a glove.


The reviews that best describe the results are that it fills in missing bass. It is strong enough to shake the rear view mirror. It doesn't thump like 12" or 14" subs that take the air from your lungs and shake your body as they thump.
Overall I'm happy with the results, kit, price and ease of installation.
I didn't even KNOW this song had strong bass until I installed this sub;

Tracy Chapman Fast Car




Some parts are in the instruction bag like the small harness some people say is missing. It plugs into the white input plug. There are 3 distinct Camaro stereo options. Z28 with no rear speakers, Standard stereo and Premium Boston Acoustics. I have the B A.
The instructions that come with it are half good and half missing.
They reference running the input cable to plug into the head unit if you don't have B A.
I like that it has a reasonable power amp that is exernal and the enclosure fits perfectly into the space not taking up much trunk space or flopping around unsecured. It has good reliability reviews.
Installation: It includes inline splices that you clip onto the nearest two speaker wires as pictured. There are multi blue wires, use the nearest to rear of vehicle pictured.
I prefer to attach the splices to one set of wires before trying for the hard to reach ones on the speaker. I pre cut some insulation and use pliers to push the wires in the tiny slot.

I used sidecut pliers to notch the +battery terminal and spare tire cover to clear the wiring better.
The sub sits on a rubber piece that threads onto the former mat hold-down post. The upper part has a bracket that you screw onto the upper holddown bracket. Then you put an included bolt through it so to remove you can unplug the harnesses, take out the top bolt and lift it off the lower rubber post that's included in the kit.
Note: I was playing this song off amazon music through bluetooth and it lost the bass that it had from the USB mp3 of the same song. I might be able to change bitrate on amazon to help this but keep that in mind if you are expecting bass or testing the system.

Im also trying add some bass to my stock system.
i have a Rockford Fosgate 10" powered sub, it fits perfectly under rear dash in front of trunk.
Battery is right there for power connections.
BUT nether the rear amp or the speakers are lableed or have obvious sub outs or ways to hook up high level connections to sub.
my directions say i need a + & _- from each rear speaker

I see one of your pics taps into rear speaker but cant tell which wires you have tapped?
looks like green with black stripe and maybe dark blue with stripe.
what wires on other speaker should i tap?