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Old 03-01-2015, 03:55 PM   #29
GMteSSted

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowLife View Post
Rear is installed and done, I should finish up the front on Friday .

I'm going to run the z28 sway bars as well instead of my Pedders rear and 1le front for now and see how it does
Any updates on your install?
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:32 PM   #30
Pushrod Pete
 
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Hey Lowlife, how did you like this suspension kit?

I am looking at making this my next modification on my 1LE.
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Old 05-20-2015, 10:42 PM   #31
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FYI you can order the JPSS Z/28 Light Package from LowLife!

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...69#post8435169

Z/28 Light Suspension Upgrade
This thread is under construction and will be finished... SOON!

"So I just took her to the local xxxxxx that has a nice little paved oval (parking lot) out front and did some hairpin turns. O.....M.....G Holy Shit does it turn. Better now on cold tires than before on hot tires!!!!!" according to Bill. We'll hear more from Bill after his day at Watkins Glen.

Bill Hurd likes to run his 1LE at Watkins Glen International. For road course use his most valuable modification to date has been his StopTech brake upgrade. The next step is to improve his grip. We are approaching that in several ways.

First we are upgrading to Z/28 springs. The rates are much higher. They are very similar to the set we had been using for years on coilovers. Nick Grossman has retail kit #1. He and his wife Melanie drove their Z/28 light Camaro from Virginia to Indiana and loved the changes.

The dampers are not a perfect match to the coil, but they work quite well. Too bad the rear Z/28 coil is 3/4 of an inch too short to fit on a 1LE rear strut. That would stop most companies or shops, but not JPSS. At JPSS we don't let little things like that get in the way of a great upgrade. We use a little 'Black Magic' and make it work.

Up front we'll be installing Black Magic Caster Lock for a gain of 1 degree. We'll also install Billet Bushings in the radius rod to reduce dynamic caster changes. Up top we'll instal Knock Out Camber plates. We should really call them SAI plates. Adding Steering Axis Inclination improves straight line stability and the return to center after a turn. You cannot imagine how sweet it is to drive with increased caster and SAI.

We'll be swapping out the 1LE front 27mm sway bar and installing the almost 24mm SS front bar. We'll add our OE Quiet HD High Efficiency Endlinks to the new SS bar. This will allow the 1LE to rotate more. It isn't snap oversteer. We like to call it aggressive rotation. As they say in the movies, loose is fast.

On the alignment rack we'll be aggressive road course.

Front Camber -2.50
Front Toe OUT 0.50
Rear Camber -1.25
Rear Toe IN 0.12

Z/28 Light Parts List
1LE Struts
Z/28 Coils
JPSS Billet Radius Arm Bushings
JPSS Caster Locks

JPSS ships the kit fully assembled using your old mounts and hardware. We turn around the kits in 72 hours or less. We can also build a kit from scratch, but the new mounts, insulators, etc... are expensive.


Always a tough moment for a proud owner. Bill I'll need your keys...


No problem Bill. We can build yours just like this. We'll not just like this. Yours will be better. Every time we build one we learn something along the way.

Peter Gray, once we finish Bill's we'll update yours


Wheels off, here we go


LR strut out.


LR strut pocket, no more noise with the increased clearance.


This puppy coil is going away... soon.


Two out.


Struts burst.


LF out.


Cut here...


RF out


Coils and mounts are going to the dumpster.


Looks a little empty.


Nice brakes.


Z/28 Light coming....


SOON!


JPSS Knockout Camber Plates - 2 Degrees of adjustment, Bolt in never slip, never drift security, bet-of-the-best Bearings Made in Martinsville.

http://www.jpssonline.com/shop/jpss-...-camber-plates


This is a full race camber plate install so we have clearnced the strut tower.


We have the plates lined up and the holes drilled.



Z/28 coil, 1LE strut, JPSS Knockout Camber Plate - WINNING!

So the Z/28 Rear Coil is 3/4" shorter than the 1LE coil. How does JPSS make it fit?


Billet Bushings - IN. Caster slots ground and ready for Caster Locks


This will work.


Uh, no...





Z/28 coils + JPSS OE Quiet HD Endlinks + 1LE Struts = Z/28 Light

Tower Two is Done!




This will work.


We need to charge more...


Too


much


fabrication


work!




Z/28 Light Alignment Time.


Getting closer...


Not bad at all.


Tongue lock, no problem...


Forgot your keys. No problem.

JPSS Z/28 Light Packages

"So I just took her to the local xxxxxx that has a nice little paved oval (parking lot) out front and did some hairpin turns. O.....M.....G Holy Shit does it turn. Better now on cold tires than before on hot tires!!!!!" according to Bill Hurd.

That is what you can expect when you upgrade to Z/28 Light. Z/28 Light uses the higher rate Z/28 coil springs with the 1LE front and rear struts. The 1LE struts are not a perfect match to the coil, but they work quite well. Too bad the rear Z/28 coil is 3/4 of an inch too short to fit on a 1LE rear strut. That would stop most companies or shops, but not JPSS. At JPSS we don't let little things like that get in the way of a great upgrade. We use a little 'Black Magic' and make it work.

Up front we add Black Magic Caster Locks for a gain of 1 degree. Increasing caster improves the return to center in steering along with straight line stability. We add Billet Bushings in the radius arm to reduce dynamic caster changes. This improves on center steering feel. Combined, it feels like a racing rack has been installed.

With the 1LE, we replace the front 27mm sway bar and with a 25mm ZL1 front bar. With the V6 and SS we replace the rear sway bar with the 1LE 28mm sway bar. On the 2010 and 2011 models, we upgrade the rear lower control arms and replace the endlinks for the new out board mounting rear sway bar. We add our OE Quiet HD High Efficiency Endlinks to the front sway bar. This will allow Camaro to rotate more easily. It isn't snap oversteer. We like to call it aggressive rotation. As they say in the movies, loose is fast.

Road Course / Autocross Alignment

Front Camber -2.50
Front Toe OUT 0.50
Rear Camber -1.25
Rear Toe IN 0.12

1LE and ZL1 Camaros use Package 1. Ship your assembled struts to JPSS and we'll return your struts as Z/28 Light struts fully assembled ready to install along with the additional JPSS parts in the package. We'll ship your fully assembled all new Z/28 Light kit ready to install in three to five business days.

2010 to 2011 V6 and V8 Camaros use Package 2. Ship your assembled struts to JPSS and we'll return your struts as Z/28 Light struts fully assembled ready to install along with the additional JPSS parts in the package. We'll ship your fully assembled all new Z/28 Light kit ready to install in three to five business days.

All model years (except the ZL1) Complete Kit with all new mounting hardware use Package 3 or 4. Package 3 has the upgraded rear lower control arms, rear sway bar and drop links, required for the 2010 and 2011. Package 4 has a 28mm rear sway bar. for all models except the 1LE and ZL1. We'll ship your fully assembled all new Z/28 Light kit ready to install in three to five business days.


The Z/28 Light Package includes:


GM Z/28 Front Coils
GM Z/28 Rear Coils
GM Rear SS Sway Bar
JPSS Billet Radius Arm Bushings
JPSS Black Magic Caster Locks
JPPS Black Magic Modifications

The V6 and SS Package Additionally Includes:

Front Struts
Rear Struts

Complete Packages Include:

GM Z/28 Front Coils
GM Z/28 Rear Coils
GM 1LE Struts
GM Rear 1LE Sway Bar
JPSS Billet Radius Arm Bushings
JPSSBlack Magic Caster Locks
JPSS Black Magic Modifications
GM Front Strut Bumpstop
GM Front Strut Boot
GM Front Coil Insulator, Lower
GM Front Strut Upper Mount Kit
GM Front Strut Mount Washer
GM Front Strut Jam Nut
GM Rear Upper Insulator
GM Rear Strut Middle Washer
GM Rear Bumpstop
GM Rear Upper Spring Insulator
GM Rear Lower Strut Washer
GM Rear Strut Mount Plate, Left
GM Rear Strut Mount Plate, Right
GM Rear Strut Top Nut

The 2010-2011 Package Additionally Includes:

GM Rear Lower Control Arms
GM Drop Links

Last edited by JusticePete; 05-21-2015 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:06 AM   #32
Mave5150SS
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This looks awesome!!! I can't wait till next year
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Old 06-08-2015, 09:02 AM   #33
coreylively
 
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What modifications do you make to make the Z/28 rear springs work with the 1LE struts? Will the front springs work with the stock SS mounts and 1LE struts?
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Old 06-08-2015, 09:41 AM   #34
JusticePete
 
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Originally Posted by coreylively View Post
What modifications do you make to make the Z/28 rear springs work with the 1LE struts? Will the front springs work with the stock SS mounts and 1LE struts?


It is JPSS Black Magic, but suffice it to say we tweak the front an rear assemblies to work with the stock mounting hardware.
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Old 06-11-2015, 01:00 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMteSSted View Post
Any updates on your install?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pushrod Pete View Post
Hey Lowlife, how did you like this suspension kit?

I am looking at making this my next modification on my 1LE.
I really like the ride quality, car handles amazing , but I have had zero track time, I just cant find the time to get out there.

so if any one is looking for a great deal on a Z28 suspension kit pm me , I'm going to be putting my car back to stock.
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Old 10-07-2015, 03:24 AM   #36
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Wouldn't a BMR suspension kit be a better and less expensive option?
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Old 10-07-2015, 06:35 AM   #37
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Better, No. Less expensive? Yes.
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Old 10-07-2015, 08:56 AM   #38
JusticePete
 
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Wouldn't a BMR suspension kit be a better and less expensive option?
The cornerstone of the Z/28 suspension is the F1 technology used in the spool valve DSSV struts. There is currently nothing available in the aftermarket that compares to the DSSV valve function rendering comparisons to a BMR kit inappropriate.

The Z/28 rear upper outer control arm bushing is hands down the best available. It is only sold as a rear Z/28 upper control arm so we buy the arm, harvest the bushing and install it.

If you have rubber bushed toe links, the ZL1, 1LE / Z/28 toe links are an upgrade.

The Z/28 radius bushing nylon snubber is a clear upgrade over the rubber snubber used in all other Camaro models. The snubber is available only as the full Z/28 left and right radius arms. We, JPSS, makes a billet delrin radius arm snubber that is sold in a kit of four to do both arms and the part is larger, more robust than the OE Z/28 snubber.

The Z/28 bars still maintain a slight bias towards understeer. We have upgraded many Z/28s to JPSS 27mm adjustable front bars with a 32mm rear bar to deliver a slight oversteer bias.

We have also developed a system to lower the Z/28 or Z/28 DSSV with factory Z/28 coils.

The best coilovers currently available for the Camaro are Penske or DSE/JRI. There are some aspects of the DSE/JRI setup we prefer. The biggest advantage we find is they are adjustable and the DSSV setup is not. Being able to tune for a track layout or track conditions is a real plus. Unfortunately most drivers and owners are not able to do the setup testing necessary to get optimal function from the tuneable setup elements and are frequently best served with a fixed valve system.
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Old 10-07-2015, 06:44 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
The Z/28 rear upper outer control arm bushing is hands down the best available. It is only sold as a rear Z/28 upper control arm so we buy the arm, harvest the bushing and install it.
Any pics? Is this the rubber vertical pivot bush on the front of the rear upper arm? The rear arm bush has many replacement options.

I just replaced my front LCA inner with a Poly version. The OE rubber "spherical-like" had a slight ~1/2" tear and arm had play where I could twist it by hand. Replacing the LCA was more expensive so tried the poly bush replacement. My front knocking or "creeking" noise is gone during extreme slalom maneuvers.

Any progress on the front splitter extension for 2010 models? Soon?
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Old 10-07-2015, 07:08 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by sting808 View Post
Any pics? Is this the rubber vertical pivot bush on the front of the rear upper arm? The rear arm bush has many replacement options.

None as good as the solid dense rubber on the Z/28 IMO

I just replaced my front LCA inner with a Poly version. The OE rubber "spherical-like" had a slight ~1/2" tear and arm had play where I could twist it by hand. Replacing the LCA was more expensive so tried the poly bush replacement. My front knocking or "creeking" noise is gone during extreme slalom maneuvers.

The split urethane is not as effective as the OE rubber. In warmer climates, the urethane gets soft from engine heat reducing the stability of the arm. On road courses, I have seen them slip out of the arm.


Any progress on the front splitter extension for 2010 models? Soon?
Should have the 2010 in production in two weeks or less. SOONER if you need one
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Old 10-09-2015, 08:22 PM   #41
Dropspeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sting808 View Post
Any pics? Is this the rubber vertical pivot bush on the front of the rear upper arm? The rear arm bush has many replacement options.

I just replaced my front LCA inner with a Poly version. The OE rubber "spherical-like" had a slight ~1/2" tear and arm had play where I could twist it by hand. Replacing the LCA was more expensive so tried the poly bush replacement. My front knocking or "creeking" noise is gone during extreme slalom maneuvers.

Any progress on the front splitter extension for 2010 models? Soon?
You don't need to purchased the Z/28 rear upper arms to get the bushings.

Part numbers are:
23104907
23104906

My stock 1LE is the one with voids. The Z/28 is the solid one

Matt
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Old 10-09-2015, 08:40 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Dropspeed View Post
You don't need to purchased the Z/28 rear upper arms to get the bushings.

Part numbers are:
23104907
23104906

My stock 1LE is the one with voids. The Z/28 is the solid one

Matt
Those are the rear arm bush. I have the Pedders, but I believe BMR, prothane, Fark, and another option is available too. Is there an improved bush for the front of the upper arm? It's the vertical pivot one.

It's the only bush I didn't replace on the rear suspension. Trying to avoid spherical/heim joints due to potential noise issues.
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