08-26-2012, 08:38 PM | #1 | ||
Most hated in NM....
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Ice down supercharger??
Hoping to get a little help from the big boys around here.
I've been hitting the strip a lot this year and probably have around 60 passes on my car. I never really take my time there super serious but maybe its about time to start trying a little bit harder. Couple questions: 1 - Do you suggest placing icebags on my supercharger in between runs to cool it off? I see a lot of people around me do this but I have never tried. 2 - I have had people suggest I leave my car with the ACC on (key in) so that the pump runs to my intercooler while the car is waiting for its next run. Think this helps any? Any other little tips that you think might help would be greatly appreciated. My setup: TVS2300, Longtubes, cat delete, noweeds, corsa (although not used as I leave the noweeds open), 3.2 pulley running 7psi, rotofab CAI. 608hp on last dyno. I do have Meth kit ready to install and tune but that may still be a few more weeks/ months away... Thanks for any suggestions.
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08-26-2012, 08:43 PM | #2 | |||
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Quote:
I've heard two schools of thought on the ice thing. Obviously the gd is the cooling. The bad being the rapid heating/cooling/heating process which can lead to something cracking. I run my ice/water chest while in the pits and use fans to cool the car. In 20 minutes it's almost to cold. |
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08-26-2012, 10:25 PM | #3 |
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Ive heard that the cooling can cause bearing failure in the S/C. I usually just leave hood open and wait till last minute to run and keep the car off as much as possible. You can alwayd use a fan to circulate air if you have a generator or power source.
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08-26-2012, 10:34 PM | #4 |
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Never shut the car off when you get back to your pit. All youll accomplish is crippling the car with heat soak. I'd let it idle until the Trans temps bottom out and then all cooling ability of the car are exhausted.
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08-26-2012, 11:02 PM | #5 |
bcguy
Drives: 2011 ss/rs m6 Join Date: Nov 2011
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So what times are you running. Reaction, 60 fts
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08-26-2012, 11:23 PM | #6 | |||
Most hated in NM....
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Quote:
Can you elaborate on what you mean by "I run my ice/water chest in the pits"? Quote:
Quote:
Reaction has no merit in this discussion. I can cut a light pretty good when I need to. I'm really looking at little ways I can cut some time off my runs. 60's are pretty consistent in 1.7's. Everyone has to remember that I am a mile up here in NM so even though that sounds horrible, I don't think it really is? I have the best 60' out of any 5th gen I have seen here. Most of the street cars I know are running 1.8-2.0's with drag radials in my HP class. I am using 17" bogarts with M&H radials. M6 car, Launch at about 3800rpm with no bog and just a little bit of spin. any lower and I bog, any higher and I spin to much and the 60' time goes up. I have found that 16psi seems to work best for me. I'm sure there are a million things I need to buy to get my times down, but I am more looking for things I should be doing rather than buying. This is my first car that I have ever taken to the track so I am definitely still learning. Any suggestions are very helpful and appreciated. thanks again all.
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08-26-2012, 11:54 PM | #7 |
bcguy
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i didnt really have to much to add to your thread topic ,except i have run 3 back to back runs and the times were close to each other,did not see an et drop,super hot weather i might.i asked your et and reaction ,60 ft for my own benefit as i am also a new racer and ran a11.34 at 126 .434 reaction(ya i know) with 1.9 60s,my car has not been dynoed so just seeing if i am in the ballpark
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Agp 62/66 ,lsx 427. , Callie's ,diamond ,all pro ,American racing ,I'ds130s,102 intake and throttle body,etc .fore triple , Turbo 400 level 5 , b and m pro , dss carbon fiber , dss ford 9 inch with strange pumpkin,3.73 ratio,1400 hp axels,boost and air fuel pillar guages. Weld rts 17x10 and 17x4.5 with m and h drag radials and skinnys
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08-27-2012, 01:13 AM | #8 |
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I have a 5 gallon cell in the trunk the I dump ice in. In the cell there is an inlet and outlet. The returning warm intercooler water enters, melts the ice, then the ice water is pumped directly into the blower. It works like a champ for lowering iat's and reducing the amount of timing pulled. One of the things undiscovered is that when I leave the pump on, tank off, the ice water still circulates and cools the entire engine. You can watch the coolant temp drop from 200 to 125 in 10 minutes.
I only let the car idle for maybe 5 minutes. This allows the Trans fluid to circulate through the cooler and lower the temps. After about 5 minutes the temps will reach a point where they won't go any lower. Then the fans cool it the rest of the way. Hot lapping could lead to excessive heat build up in the Trans and prematurely make it fail. |
08-27-2012, 08:11 AM | #9 | ||
Most hated in NM....
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Quote:
My best time is 11.9@115. Last weekend I was pretty consistent around 12.1 to 12.3 and around 113mph. Again, I am almost a mile up so that does take quite a bit away from me I think. DA was at 8,200. Looks like if you can cut the 60's down you could be in the 10's... Quote:
Saw your car in Indy, it was a pleasure to checkout. I remember seeing you use fans to cool off the front but didn't see the ice. I assumed the box in the trunk was for race fuel. Thanks for the suggestions. Any other helpful tidbits are always appreciated.
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08-27-2012, 08:45 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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08-27-2012, 11:31 AM | #11 |
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I run a dual pass heat exchanger and I will leave the pump on for it to draw the heat out of the intake. Another good way to drop engine temps is by adding a electric water pump that allows you to circulate coolant when the engine is not running.
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08-27-2012, 12:28 PM | #12 |
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I read that RX has someting that connects directly to the AC and use its cooling ability to get IATs down....alot....works even when AC is not on......
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08-27-2012, 02:20 PM | #13 | |
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Only adds 12-14# and no ice to add, no water to drain, and cools 30-50* in less than 3 minutes. Never have to buy anything more as it is always there. |
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08-27-2012, 02:31 PM | #14 |
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Stupid question: Does the super chiller drip? If you are running the A/C normally, the expansion tank usually ices up and drips. Does this happen with the super chiller? I have always been told that ANY drips out of the car = OFF THE TRACK NOW. Just curious.
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