06-22-2011, 11:39 AM | #1 |
Drives: 13 Summit white ZL1 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 26
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DRL Brake Air Ducts
I have been running my 2SS at a few HPDE around Texas the last year. Doing so i have ruined my rotors and melted 2 pairs of pads. Also, during 2 of the events The brakes got so hot that I got an uneven amount of pad material on my rotors and got a really bad "shimmy"
I have talked to a few people and did some forum searching and think the best way to combat this is by running some air ducts. I purchased Allstar Performance 3" Double Ply Silicon Coated Woven Fiberglass Brake Duct Hose - 500 Degree Rated and 2 Coleman Aluminum Brake Duct Intake - 3" Diameter I found a couple links from some guys that have done this. But is hasn't helped as much as I thought. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ht=brake+ducts I'm not experienced in this at all so any help would be much appreciated. |
06-22-2011, 11:44 AM | #2 | |
Drives: 13 Summit white ZL1 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 26
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Quote:
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06-22-2011, 12:08 PM | #3 |
knows 2 facts about ducks
Drives: ...and they're both wrong Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 25,072
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I like it. Would it be easier to route the hoses in the lower grille? That way you don't lose your DRLs?
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06-22-2011, 12:11 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2014 Z/28 #82+#192, 18ZLE 66Nova Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: By the lake in AZ
Posts: 15,719
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It looks good, but if i may why not place the air Duct to give air to both sides of the Rotor air? but if it works for you then its great.
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06-22-2011, 12:18 PM | #5 |
Drives: 13 Summit white ZL1 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 26
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steiger
Well I had one of my DRL's go out and I really never cared much for them. My original thought was to get the ACS T3 ports and make them functional. But that seemed way too complicated for me (not that someone else could make it work). then I saw someone make a "ram air/CAI" using one of his DRL's. It looked doable. 2SSRS If you have seen anyone able to do this send me a link. I didn't think it was possible since the outside of the rotor is right next to the wheel. All the other ducts i have seen have tubes going to the inside...side (?) of the rotor. But, I am very green and I could be wrong. |
06-22-2011, 02:25 PM | #6 | |
knows 2 facts about ducks
Drives: ...and they're both wrong Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 25,072
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06-22-2011, 05:39 PM | #7 |
Drives: 1969 & 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,849
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Vents on most performance/race cars only blow on the backside of the rotor, but aimed towards the hub. The goal of the system is to flow air through the backside of the hub, so that it goes radially outwards from hub to rotor, inside the rotor disk. Basically, enhancing the actual design of a rotor, cooling from the inside out.
Tony
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06-22-2011, 06:20 PM | #8 |
Drives: 13 Summit white ZL1 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 26
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Tony, I see what your talking about. I just had the rotor off an was looking at it. I can see how the "inside" of the rotor had vents to pull air through it.
I have put he vent project on hold; I have an event this weekend. Do you think it would be better/worse/no difference to leave the dust guards off for the event this weekend? just a thought. Thanks everyone for posting and getting this a little clearer. My next step is relocating the washer fluid and coolant overflow tanks so i can route the ducts through where they are. |
09-30-2011, 11:45 PM | #9 |
What should I name my car
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS RS IOM Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 786
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I found a few links...
http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/BrakeDucts/ducts.html I'm interested in doing this too. I don't really care for the FOGs too much. DRLs either. I don't drive in fog anyways.... Maybe I'll get the TF3 cut outs and make them functional and put some LEDs in there and wire them from the DRLs. Hmm... winter projects... I'm not sure about how to cool the rears though. I am also curious to know if removing the brake dust plate is good or bad. I don't care about brake dust. I swifer my wheels every weekend if I don't wash it that weekend.
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Performance: ARH 2"/"3 headers + ARH 3" HF catback system, SS brake lines, hawk HP+ pads, motul RBF 600 fluid, K&N CAI (w/custom insulation), plug wires, air scoop, Hurst STS, Pedders Track II suspension, 18x10 wheels, 295/45/18 Nitto NT05s
Looks: powder coated iom calipers, LED foglights w/ always on harness, custom painted bowties, window tint, smoke tinted tail lights etc, oem gfx w/ custom outlets, painted taillight bezels, all weather trunk mat |
10-01-2011, 12:08 AM | #10 |
Drives: 13 Summit white ZL1 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 26
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I ran out of time in completing the air ducts. The only way i see to do it would be to relocate the washer fluid bottle and the coolant overflow bottle.
There really isn't any need to cool the rear brakes. the vast majority of braking is in the fronts. I have punished my brakes and have never had any issues with the rears. I removed the dust shields in the front and i haven't noticed a difference with the dust or cooling. I have been to the track (2 different ones) and ran around town for a few weeks and the dust is the same with them on as with them off. I change out the brakes when going to the track. I thought about using the T3 ducts but I didn't think there was enough room between the inside of the ducts and the inner wheel well. I could be wrong. |
10-17-2011, 07:10 AM | #11 |
No Pain No Gain
Drives: Yellow 5th Gen 2SS RS Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: GA
Posts: 1,519
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Is that Harness bar easy to install? And is it easy to remove?
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2010 2SS/RS/L99 - Headers/CAI/SWAYs/CoilOvers/Tune/Steel Braided Brake Lines/Frozen Slotted Rotors
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