Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
dave@hennessey
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Technical Camaro Topics > Camaro DIY & HOW-TO instructions & discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 06-22-2011, 11:39 AM   #1
mikey45
 
mikey45's Avatar
 
Drives: 13 Summit white ZL1
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 26
DRL Brake Air Ducts

I have been running my 2SS at a few HPDE around Texas the last year. Doing so i have ruined my rotors and melted 2 pairs of pads. Also, during 2 of the events The brakes got so hot that I got an uneven amount of pad material on my rotors and got a really bad "shimmy"

I have talked to a few people and did some forum searching and think the best way to combat this is by running some air ducts.

I purchased Allstar Performance 3" Double Ply Silicon Coated Woven
Fiberglass Brake Duct Hose - 500 Degree Rated


and

2 Coleman Aluminum Brake Duct Intake - 3" Diameter



I found a couple links from some guys that have done this. But is hasn't helped as much as I thought.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ht=brake+ducts



I'm not experienced in this at all so any help would be much appreciated.




mikey45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2011, 11:44 AM   #2
mikey45
 
mikey45's Avatar
 
Drives: 13 Summit white ZL1
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by John M. View Post
I'll throw my two cents in the hat...

Erik at TORQ has an awesome set-up! I went a slightly different way and simply replaced my rotors with a set of GM Frozen Rotors (www.frozenrotors.com). DTC-30 pads in all 4 corners, stainless steel lines (of course), and Castrol SRF fluid... oh I also installed a set of titanium pad shims to help shield the caliper from some heat.

I am running a stock engine, with a Vararam Air box and TORQ custom tune (385RWHP on TORQs Mustang Dyno). I did fabricate a set of cooling ducts for the front rotors (I melted a set of HP Plus pads in 3 hours).



May I suggest a harness bar... when you are stuck to your seat, you can concentrate on driving. Speedware Motorsports - ask for Drew or Tony (www.speedwaremotorsports.com) did mine, along with 6-point schroth HANS belts.



1
mikey45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2011, 12:08 PM   #3
The Stig
knows 2 facts about ducks
 
The Stig's Avatar
 
Drives: ...and they're both wrong
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 25,072
I like it. Would it be easier to route the hoses in the lower grille? That way you don't lose your DRLs?
__________________
Click to view my build thread
The Stig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2011, 12:11 PM   #4
2SSRS@Gen5diy
 
2SSRS@Gen5diy's Avatar
 
Drives: 2014 Z/28 #82+#192, 18ZLE 66Nova
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: By the lake in AZ
Posts: 15,719
It looks good, but if i may why not place the air Duct to give air to both sides of the Rotor air? but if it works for you then its great.
2SSRS@Gen5diy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2011, 12:18 PM   #5
mikey45
 
mikey45's Avatar
 
Drives: 13 Summit white ZL1
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 26
steiger
Well I had one of my DRL's go out and I really never cared much for them. My original thought was to get the ACS T3 ports and make them functional. But that seemed way too complicated for me (not that someone else could make it work). then I saw someone make a "ram air/CAI" using one of his DRL's. It looked doable.

2SSRS
If you have seen anyone able to do this send me a link. I didn't think it was possible since the outside of the rotor is right next to the wheel. All the other ducts i have seen have tubes going to the inside...side (?) of the rotor.

But, I am very green and I could be wrong.
mikey45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2011, 02:25 PM   #6
The Stig
knows 2 facts about ducks
 
The Stig's Avatar
 
Drives: ...and they're both wrong
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 25,072
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey45 View Post
steiger
Well I had one of my DRL's go out and I really never cared much for them. My original thought was to get the ACS T3 ports and make them functional. But that seemed way too complicated for me (not that someone else could make it work). then I saw someone make a "ram air/CAI" using one of his DRL's. It looked doable.
The T3 ports can be made to do that. I have some on the way and plan to use mine to funnel air to my injen CAI. But they could be set up to go to the rotors.
__________________
Click to view my build thread
The Stig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2011, 05:39 PM   #7
Nine Ball


 
Nine Ball's Avatar
 
Drives: 1969 & 2016 Camaro SS
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,849
Vents on most performance/race cars only blow on the backside of the rotor, but aimed towards the hub. The goal of the system is to flow air through the backside of the hub, so that it goes radially outwards from hub to rotor, inside the rotor disk. Basically, enhancing the actual design of a rotor, cooling from the inside out.

Tony
__________________
Fquick.com/NineBall
Nine Ball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2011, 06:20 PM   #8
mikey45
 
mikey45's Avatar
 
Drives: 13 Summit white ZL1
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 26
Tony, I see what your talking about. I just had the rotor off an was looking at it. I can see how the "inside" of the rotor had vents to pull air through it.

I have put he vent project on hold; I have an event this weekend. Do you think it would be better/worse/no difference to leave the dust guards off for the event this weekend? just a thought.

Thanks everyone for posting and getting this a little clearer. My next step is relocating the washer fluid and coolant overflow tanks so i can route the ducts through where they are.
mikey45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2011, 11:45 PM   #9
Li0nel1234
What should I name my car
 
Li0nel1234's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS RS IOM
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 786
Send a message via AIM to Li0nel1234
I found a few links...

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/BrakeDucts/ducts.html

I'm interested in doing this too. I don't really care for the FOGs too much. DRLs either. I don't drive in fog anyways....

Maybe I'll get the TF3 cut outs and make them functional and put some LEDs in there and wire them from the DRLs. Hmm... winter projects...

I'm not sure about how to cool the rears though.

I am also curious to know if removing the brake dust plate is good or bad. I don't care about brake dust. I swifer my wheels every weekend if I don't wash it that weekend.
__________________
Performance: ARH 2"/"3 headers + ARH 3" HF catback system, SS brake lines, hawk HP+ pads, motul RBF 600 fluid, K&N CAI (w/custom insulation), plug wires, air scoop, Hurst STS, Pedders Track II suspension, 18x10 wheels, 295/45/18 Nitto NT05s
Looks: powder coated iom calipers, LED foglights w/ always on harness, custom painted bowties, window tint, smoke tinted tail lights etc, oem gfx w/ custom outlets, painted taillight bezels, all weather trunk mat
Li0nel1234 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2011, 12:08 AM   #10
mikey45
 
mikey45's Avatar
 
Drives: 13 Summit white ZL1
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 26
I ran out of time in completing the air ducts. The only way i see to do it would be to relocate the washer fluid bottle and the coolant overflow bottle.

There really isn't any need to cool the rear brakes. the vast majority of braking is in the fronts. I have punished my brakes and have never had any issues with the rears.

I removed the dust shields in the front and i haven't noticed a difference with the dust or cooling. I have been to the track (2 different ones) and ran around town for a few weeks and the dust is the same with them on as with them off. I change out the brakes when going to the track.

I thought about using the T3 ducts but I didn't think there was enough room between the inside of the ducts and the inner wheel well. I could be wrong.
mikey45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2011, 07:10 AM   #11
Rogan
No Pain No Gain
 
Rogan's Avatar
 
Drives: Yellow 5th Gen 2SS RS
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: GA
Posts: 1,519
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey45 View Post
1
Is that Harness bar easy to install? And is it easy to remove?
__________________
2010 2SS/RS/L99 - Headers/CAI/SWAYs/CoilOvers/Tune/Steel Braided Brake Lines/Frozen Slotted Rotors
Rogan is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
BBK Shorty Header Dyno Test Today!!! Jason 98 TA Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons 74 06-25-2021 08:58 AM
New from RPI! 2010-11 Camaro Carbon Fiber Engine Pieces (Fuse, Brake Res, Air Box) RPI Designs Exterior Parts & Accessories 5 07-17-2015 02:24 PM
5th Gen Brake Upgrade MTI Racing Kevin Suspension / Chassis / Brakes 2 09-17-2010 11:45 AM
Tuning for dummies Milk 1027 Tuning / Diagnostics -- engine and transmission 43 03-17-2010 08:06 AM
Why RAM Air is a myth!!! Long Read (Wall of text) live2well Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons 80 11-02-2009 03:34 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:28 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.