07-13-2013, 03:54 PM | #71 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Down South
Posts: 1,497
|
Quote:
On a 100 shot with 55psi I think it calls for a 33 jet on the fuel side but if running at 40psi you would go bigger say 40 jet instead. The recommended jets are usually pretty rich so you need to test and adjust till you get it where you want it. I am running a 250 shot using 88N 33F jets and still in the low 11 a/f even though the chart recommends 88N 51F.
__________________
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 RCSB Thunder Road Hemi Sport w/STS Turbo
2004 Dodge Ram SRT-10 - Silver - Stock 2003 Chevy 1500 RCSB Stepside 400SS - 408 in now awaiting Turbo |
|
07-13-2013, 04:08 PM | #72 | |
|
Quote:
My AFR is on the fat side right now 10.7/11.2. So best would be to just start with a 50 jet and go big on the fuel and adjust from there? Not really looking to add a lot of power as much as use it to cool the IAT's some. already using meth but still getting to hot. Only using a 30m/70w mix. Do you know how to pull timing in the tune? Do I just pull 2 degrees thru the whole table? |
|
07-13-2013, 05:06 PM | #73 | |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sandy Hook, CT
Posts: 11,927
|
Quote:
|
|
07-14-2013, 08:20 AM | #74 |
Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange SS Convertible Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tyrone, PA
Posts: 640
|
I think the wet kits cool the IATs more than dry kits but I don't think I would spray a wet kit pre blower.
__________________
2011 SS IOM Vert. ECS Vortech 13+ psi, Water/Meth, ID850’s, ZL1 pump with MSD Voltage Booster, 2800 stall, LT headers, Drag radials, Drag alignment, Cradle Bushings. A million other supporting mods. Tuned by Ted.
|
07-14-2013, 08:24 AM | #75 |
Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange SS Convertible Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tyrone, PA
Posts: 640
|
Why? My FP is a solid 63 plus, my inj duty cycle is plenty low so they can compensate some if fp does start to drop a little. I'm more concerned with what the motor can take and what the EGTs might look like with my stock cam not having alot of exhaust capabilities.
__________________
2011 SS IOM Vert. ECS Vortech 13+ psi, Water/Meth, ID850’s, ZL1 pump with MSD Voltage Booster, 2800 stall, LT headers, Drag radials, Drag alignment, Cradle Bushings. A million other supporting mods. Tuned by Ted.
|
07-14-2013, 10:13 AM | #76 | |
|
Quote:
I see people say not to spray a wet shot pre blower and to use a dry kit. But you read Zex site and they say.. Q: What is better, a “wet” or “dry” kit? A: It all depends on the application. A "wet" kit is ideal for both normally aspirated applications as well as forced induction applications. It can require a little bit more installation time than a "dry" kit, but is easier to tune if greater than stock HP settings are to be experimented with. A "dry" kit is excellent for normally aspirated combinations that have a return style fuel system. They are very easy to install and are a great "first time" nitrous system. It is not recommended that "dry" systems be used on forced induction engines. And on the Nitrous Outlet site they sell a Wet kit for the Magnacharger that sprays pre blower.. http://nitrousoutlet.com/efi-wet-nit...plate-kit.html |
|
07-15-2013, 11:04 AM | #77 |
Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange SS Convertible Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tyrone, PA
Posts: 640
|
I never sprayed pre blower. My concern would be the fuel not being completely atomized. Not saying you can't, just saying to do a good deal of research before you try it.
I do know a decent sized dry kit will require more injector size and alot more tuning and such. A wet kit and an LNC2000 and you can tune your computer for best performance without spraying then adjust your box and jets for best performance on the spray.
__________________
2011 SS IOM Vert. ECS Vortech 13+ psi, Water/Meth, ID850’s, ZL1 pump with MSD Voltage Booster, 2800 stall, LT headers, Drag radials, Drag alignment, Cradle Bushings. A million other supporting mods. Tuned by Ted.
|
07-15-2013, 11:45 AM | #78 |
Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange SS Convertible Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tyrone, PA
Posts: 640
|
Another thing to be careful of is the AFR. Nitrous has a different stoich than air, as in, if you were running 100% nitrous and no air you would need to see about 7:1 AFR. There are some online calculators and such that you enter your hp on motor and your shot size and your fuel type and they will tell you about what AFR to run. You might be surprised. High 10's AFR on a 100 shot, and even high 9's AFR on a 200 or so shot are not that uncommon. If you are spraying a 200 shot and are at 11.0 AFR you are likely lean. People not adjusting their AFR as they increase their shot size, and continue to look for an AFR in the 11's, account for many of the lean nitrous backfires and detonation catastrophic failures.
__________________
2011 SS IOM Vert. ECS Vortech 13+ psi, Water/Meth, ID850’s, ZL1 pump with MSD Voltage Booster, 2800 stall, LT headers, Drag radials, Drag alignment, Cradle Bushings. A million other supporting mods. Tuned by Ted.
|
07-18-2013, 07:19 PM | #79 | ||
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Down South
Posts: 1,497
|
Quote:
Quote:
I am spraying 250 right now with A/F in the mid 11's with a goal of 11.8-12.2 and soon to be 300 shot
__________________
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 RCSB Thunder Road Hemi Sport w/STS Turbo
2004 Dodge Ram SRT-10 - Silver - Stock 2003 Chevy 1500 RCSB Stepside 400SS - 408 in now awaiting Turbo |
||
07-18-2013, 08:20 PM | #80 |
Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange SS Convertible Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tyrone, PA
Posts: 640
|
No bs. Trust me. Www.yellowbullet.com. Click on the forum link, Search on there. 250 shot and 11's AFR is lean. Nitrous has more oxygen molecules per volume than air. The more of your power that comes from nitrous the lower the AFR needs to be. Up to a 150 shot on big motor you are likely fine, since n/a you could run 12.7:1 but you spray and run 11.5:1. But going up in the 200's you are getting borderline. Lean but a forged motor might survive. Read the plugs and you should see what I mean.
You spray a 300 on 12:1 pump gas and ill bet you have trouble finding any spark plugs that won't melt. Richen up to 10:1 and plugs won't melt and it will make as much, if not more power. 10:1 won't be rich because your wideband is calibrated in air but you are adding a substance that has more oxygen molecules per volume than air.
__________________
2011 SS IOM Vert. ECS Vortech 13+ psi, Water/Meth, ID850’s, ZL1 pump with MSD Voltage Booster, 2800 stall, LT headers, Drag radials, Drag alignment, Cradle Bushings. A million other supporting mods. Tuned by Ted.
|
07-18-2013, 08:43 PM | #81 |
Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange SS Convertible Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tyrone, PA
Posts: 640
|
http://www.nitrousforum.com/forums/a...php/t-738.html
http://www.robietherobot.com/nitrousjetcalculator.htm http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/air-...up-106850.html http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=46318
__________________
2011 SS IOM Vert. ECS Vortech 13+ psi, Water/Meth, ID850’s, ZL1 pump with MSD Voltage Booster, 2800 stall, LT headers, Drag radials, Drag alignment, Cradle Bushings. A million other supporting mods. Tuned by Ted.
Last edited by dan0617; 07-18-2013 at 09:11 PM. |
07-18-2013, 11:59 PM | #82 |
Really, Really Fast
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: St.Louis,Mo
Posts: 686
|
I was spraying two 300hp foggers into a small block ford with a a/f ratio of 11.6 w/o a problem for years.
first kit came on soon as I let off the t-brake, the second .16 of a second after that. I was running VP C23 thou, no pump gas
__________________
Procharger F1X, TH400, E85, CBI Street Cars, DSX Tuning, 1300whp
|
07-19-2013, 03:01 PM | #83 | |
Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange SS Convertible Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tyrone, PA
Posts: 640
|
Quote:
On my nitrous cars I have always made more power and higher 1/4 mile mph with the AFR gauge reading just about what it calculates out to by the formulas in the links in the post above. I always used motor AFR of 12.7 and nitrous NFR of 6.0. If spraying a boosted motor I use motor AFR of 11.7. If running E10 and gauge is set up for it, then boost AFR of 11.2 and NFR of 5.5. It always works, never a backfire or melted plug since I started calculating target AFR on spray this way and power has always been higher than just targeting an 11.5. On a smaller shot you can get away with a NFR of 7:1. These numbers are for the calculation. You aren't to run an AFR of 6 or 7 to 1. You would only run that if you were running all nitrous and no air.
__________________
2011 SS IOM Vert. ECS Vortech 13+ psi, Water/Meth, ID850’s, ZL1 pump with MSD Voltage Booster, 2800 stall, LT headers, Drag radials, Drag alignment, Cradle Bushings. A million other supporting mods. Tuned by Ted.
Last edited by dan0617; 07-19-2013 at 11:23 PM. |
|
07-19-2013, 05:12 PM | #84 |
Drives: 2010 RS SS Juiced! Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Waco, TX
Posts: 238
|
dan0617,
Im going to respectfully say that you are probably not understanding some of the things you are reading. The tech info you are providing is no where close to how things are. I want to touch base on this in detail but it is 5.11 pm and we are trying to close shop. I am making this post so that I can find my way back here next week to provide proper technical information and help you understand some of what you may be reading and trying to repeat. I have not looked at your links but I can tell you.. Don't believe everything you read. Have a great weekend. Talk to you next week. :-) Dave |
|
|
|
|