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Old 02-03-2013, 07:45 PM   #1
drrm123
 
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IAT Sensor?

Where is the location of the intake air temperture IAT sensor? Was at the track yesterday and temps would get up to 119 degrees while in staging lanes. Using OBDII code reader. Trying to figure out how to get car to run more consistent.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:43 PM   #2
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Where is the location of the intake air temperture IAT sensor? Was at the track yesterday and temps would get up to 119 degrees while in staging lanes. Using OBDII code reader. Trying to figure out how to get car to run more consistent.
It is on the blower, you have in and the out temps of the blower. So there is two of them.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:46 PM   #3
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I thought IAT1 was at the MAF and IAT2 is on the supercharger hat driver's side
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:48 PM   #4
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I thought IAT1 was at the MAF and IAT2 is on the supercharger hat driver's side
Yes have a inter cooler. The one that counts is the one in the pic. Correct the MAS has a temp sensor in it, but that is not what counts to tell the ECM in boost.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:34 PM   #5
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he only asked the location of the IAT sensors...I understand your point, however
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'21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60'
'17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold)
'15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold)
'12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:25 PM   #6
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You'd be pulling 3-4 degrees of timing from your IAT table at that temperture.

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Last edited by Tampa Tuning; 02-03-2013 at 10:38 PM.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:54 AM   #7
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It's in the MAF. Iat2 in on the blower housing.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:55 AM   #8
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You'd be pulling 3-4 degrees of timing from your IAT table at that temperture.

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Timing does not start pulling until 147 + on the IAT2 table.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:27 AM   #9
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Timing does not start pulling until 147 + on the IAT2 table.
Hey Keith where did you get that IAT2 table from? Do you possibly use EFIlive? HPTuners only has an intake air temp table and ive been told by them that on vehicles equipped with a physical IAT2 sensor this table referenced that sensor. On all other vehicles IAT2 data does exist but its only "estimated/calculated" and means nothing.

Looking at the IAT vs spark table the LSA will be pulling out 1.2 to 2 degrees of spark advance at high revs at the temps you are running at.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:47 AM   #10
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Timing does not start pulling until 147 + on the IAT2 table.
Not off the MAF sensor. It starts much earlier.
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:17 PM   #11
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So what do I need to do to get car to run more consistent et's. Started off running 12.37 then 13.60 lost traction mid track 13.90, 13.70, 14.11, 14.01 spun too much off line and 13.31 used paddle shifters to get to go to red line, other shifts from 1 to 2 around 3500-4500 rpm. Engine temps around 200 to 215 leaving starting line.
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:13 PM   #12
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Make sure you heat the tires some before you try to run the car. Air down the rear tires to 25 psi to help with traction too. Put the car in "M" mode and forget the paddles and let the car do the shifting. Make sure the "S" is lit and not the current gear. Put the car in PTM5 mode or turn off the traction control/stability control by holding the traction control button for 7 seconds until both lights illuminate. PTM5 mode can be accessed by pressing the traction control button twice then cycle the menu by pressing sport until you see PTM5 listed. These few things will get the car into the correct mode for best e.t. You can't launch aggressively with street tires. If you load up too hard against the torque converter, you will blow the tires away and ruin the run and get another 14.0. Take the slack out of the drivetrain by barely going above idle on the brake and launch about 1/2 throttle and then gently + quickly squeeze the rest of the way down. Practice this as it is difficult to put into words. If you get drag radials, once they are heated just load above idle and go. Hopefully I have helped.
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'17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold)
'15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold)
'12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:29 PM   #13
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Actually I've done all that. Trying to ease off the line and not blow the tires off, results in a upshift around 4500 rpm, I went faster using the paddle shifters being able to take it to red line. let air down to 24 lbs, still will spin the tires in 1, 2 and 3. Drifted sideways going into 3rd a couple of time, and had to peddle car. The thing I'm trying to figure out is what's it take to get the car to run low 12's consistantly. Stephen12 how much of a drop in et's did you get the last time you went to the track & how many passes did you make? Was the 1st one the fastest and get slower from that point? I see you have a cooler logic HX and was wondering how much of a difference it made. This is my first forced induction car, use to normally aspirated vehicles.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:27 PM   #14
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The larger hx makes the performance more consistent for sure. I can run back to back and only vary .03. Sounds like you need drag radials or/and the track prep sucks. Is everyone having traction issues? First round of mods gave me an 11.19 and some of the newest mods have me at 11.03. Have not run with the new mid pipes or ID850s. Hoping for 10.99!
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'21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60'
'17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold)
'15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold)
'12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)
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