Wheel Hop = seeking suggestions

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by JDP Tyler

Trailing arms, toe rods, subframe bushings and upper control arm bushings all play a roll in wheel hop and stability. Pfadt and BMR both offer complete solutions and we do have some other options as well. Let me know if you have any specific questions and I will happy to assist you.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Listen to what Tyler has to say here and your wheel hop will be a thing of the past.

Originally Posted by blazzin1

Call Kyle at BMR Suspension.....he can hook you up with everything you need!!!! PSJ and Tyler both have good suggestions for which parts to change.

Thanks for the good words!

[Grote]

What a great set of replies!

Thanks everyone for sharing your thoughts on this.

I have decided to purchase trailing arms, toe rods and associated bushings - now to decide which brand....

Once I get them installed I will post a comment as to which ones and how they impact the wheel hop.

Grote

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by Grote

What a great set of replies!

Thanks everyone for sharing your thoughts on this.

I have decided to purchase trailing arms, toe rods and associated bushings - now to decide which brand....

Once I get them installed I will post a comment as to which ones and how they impact the wheel hop.

Grote

Well if you decide to use BMR let me know and I would be more than happy to throw a quote together for you and see what I can do.

[caverman]

Originally Posted by Grote

What a great set of replies!

Thanks everyone for sharing your thoughts on this.

I have decided to purchase trailing arms, toe rods and associated bushings - now to decide which brand....

Once I get them installed I will post a comment as to which ones and how they impact the wheel hop.

Grote

Talk to the guys over at www.JDPMotorsports.com. They have experience with several of the different Mfg and can give you an honest opinion. They have a 5th Gen they race and are able to test out the different stuff that is available. They also have some of the cheapest prices on stuff I've looked for. You should least call them to get an opinion on parts and get some price quotes.

[Billy10mm]

Get stickier rubber so the tires don't spin.

Problem solved.

[Grote]

Well, after doing some research found there are several options; hoping that someone can give me their views on the following as to which would work best for my driving - which is street - with occasional romp on the gas pedal - not wanting any additional road noise, wheel hop or hard ride:

Which type of bushing, poly, delrin, or spherical bearing
steel construction, chrome moly or billet

Which brand? Spohn, BMR, Pfadt, Lakewood, Granatelli

[JDP Sales]

Originally Posted by caverman

Talk to the guys over at www.JDPMotorsports.com. They have experience with several of the different Mfg and can give you an honest opinion. They have a 5th Gen they race and are able to test out the different stuff that is available. They also have some of the cheapest prices on stuff I've looked for. You should least call them to get an opinion on parts and get some price quotes.

Thanks for the support!

Originally Posted by Grote

Well, after doing some research found there are several options; hoping that someone can give me their views on the following as to which would work best for my driving - which is street - with occasional romp on the gas pedal - not wanting any additional road noise, wheel hop or hard ride:

Which type of bushing, poly, delrin, or spherical bearing
steel construction, chrome moly or billet

Which brand? Spohn, BMR, Pfadt, Lakewood, Granatelli

We have been using the Spohn toe links and trailing arms with spherical rod ends on our JDP Camaro. They may be a little over kill for your application, but in our opinion, they are the best solution. If you are just going with poly (which I would probably recommend for a street application) then Spohn, Pfadt and BMR are all good choices. If you do go with BMR or Spohn, just be sure to get the outer trailing arm bushings to go with them. They are not included, but sold separately.

For the subframe bushings, in my opinion a solid bushing is the only way to go, even if you are not pushing a whole lot of power. Corvettes all come with a solid subframe connection, so IMO there is no reason to have anything less. Pfadt solid subframe bushings would be my #1 choice here.

As for the upper control arm bushings, we offer a the Pfadt poly upper control arm bushings pre-pressed in new GM brackets to save you the time and effort. you will want to do these at the same time as the subframe bushings as there is a ton of overlapping labor involved.

If you have any other questions, I am happy to help. Please feel free to call, PM or email me anytime!

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

[Grote]

Originally Posted by JDP Tyler

Thanks for the support!



We have been using the Spohn toe links and trailing arms with spherical rod ends on our JDP Camaro. They may be a little over kill for your application, but in our opinion, they are the best solution. If you are just going with poly (which I would probably recommend for a street application) then Spohn, Pfadt and BMR are all good choices. If you do go with BMR or Spohn, just be sure to get the outer trailing arm bushings to go with them. They are not included, but sold separately.

For the subframe bushings, in my opinion a solid bushing is the only way to go, even if you are not pushing a whole lot of power. Corvettes all come with a solid subframe connection, so IMO there is no reason to have anything less. Pfadt solid subframe bushings would be my #1 choice here.

As for the upper control arm bushings, we offer a the Pfadt poly upper control arm bushings pre-pressed in new GM brackets to save you the time and effort. you will want to do these at the same time as the subframe bushings as there is a ton of overlapping labor involved.

If you have any other questions, I am happy to help. Please feel free to call, PM or email me anytime!

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Tyler - really appreciate your thoughts on this - one question =
instead of going with the solid subframe bushings is there any appreciable value to just using the inserts? Up to now I was not considering subframe or control arm upgrades - would there be noticeable improvements for street driving with an occasional romp?

Thanks again
Grote

[Grote]

Originally Posted by Grote

Tyler - really appreciate your thoughts on this - one question =
instead of going with the solid subframe bushings is there any appreciable value to just using the inserts? Up to now I was not considering subframe or control arm upgrades - would there be noticeable improvements for street driving with an occasional romp?

Thanks again
Grote

OOPS = guess I have one more question - is the chrome moloy option on the Spohn worth the extra money?

[LS3 SS]

Trailing Arms, Toe Rods, Upper Control Arm bushings, and Cradle bushings will definitely solve your problem.

[Grote]

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

Well if you decide to use BMR let me know and I would be more than happy to throw a quote together for you and see what I can do.

Kyle, a quote would be appreciated.

Trailing arms (with extra bushing)
toe rods
Still undecided on subframe mounts - seeking opinions on using solid or the insert type?

Can you compare BMR to the other guys parts?

Many thanks
Grote

[JDP Sales]

Originally Posted by Grote

Tyler - really appreciate your thoughts on this - one question =
instead of going with the solid subframe bushings is there any appreciable value to just using the inserts? Up to now I was not considering subframe or control arm upgrades - would there be noticeable improvements for street driving with an occasional romp?

Thanks again
Grote

Inserts and polyurethane bushings will help, but not completely remove the rear end movement. A street car can get away with less than a solid bushing, But my recommendation would still be to go with a solid bushing.

Check out this video Pfadt Made a while back demonstrating all of the deflection in the rear suspension. By eliminating all of the subframe movement, your car will feel much more stable and predictable at high speeds, snappy left to right motions, and will respond better to steering input.

Originally Posted by Grote

OOPS = guess I have one more question - is the chrome moloy option on the Spohn worth the extra money?

For your application it may not be, we did opt for the upgrade, but our car sees a lot of track time.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

[Grote]

Originally Posted by JDP Tyler

Inserts and polyurethane bushings will help, but not completely remove the rear end movement. A street car can get away with less than a solid bushing, But my recommendation would still be to go with a solid bushing.

Check out this video Pfadt Made a while back demonstrating all of the deflection in the rear suspension. By eliminating all of the subframe movement, your car will feel much more stable and predictable at high speeds, snappy left to right motions, and will respond better to steering input.



For your application it may not be, we did opt for the upgrade, but our car sees a lot of track time.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Thanks Tyler - that was inspiring. Now to save up the $$ for the solid mount bushings! Do you have an opinion on how effective the insert type bushings are for the subframe?

Grote

[The_Blur]

Suspension is the solution.