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Old 02-22-2014, 12:00 PM   #51
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NGK's gave me a low rpm light throttle miss after a couple hundred miles.

Brisk GR12S plugs worked good for me, would use them again but I wanted to try an iridium plug. At 13 psi and a 125 shot plug choice is critical. The Denso IT's have been perfect.

I'll sell you a set of Brisk GR12S plugs for $40 shipped if you want them. Have maybe 1000 miles on them at the most. They are gapped at .040, you would want to regap them to about .028 for your boost, or I can do that if you want. I was using them at lower boost, and then decided they were too cold so I went with a warmer plug. I then upped the boost and added spray and decided to go with cold Denso iridiums, so I don't need these anymore.

I also have a set of Denso IT-22's I'll sell for $60 shipped. Again, with nitrous and boost they worked but for safety I wanted to go another step colder so I don't need these anymore. Have maybe 500 miles on them.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:01 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by mcdoogle6969 View Post
So what would be the difference at my power level between a BR7EF and a B8EFS? (Assuming my build will reach 800-850rwhp)
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...tnumberkey.pdf

The main difference is the -8 plug will be a step colder, little better safeguard against detonation.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:32 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by mcdoogle6969 View Post
So what would be the difference at my power level between a BR7EF and a B8EFS? (Assuming my build will reach 800-850rwhp)
Too hot of a plug in a combo will melt itself and might melt your motor with it. Too cold will carbon foul, especially with a lot of idling and low rpm driving with no WOT blasts. A rich tune will help it foul quicker. Most seem to start stepping colder from factory plug heat range. In reality you should put in the coldest plug you think you can run without fouling, then step warmer if it does foul. I'd start with an 8 heat range if I were you. Most likely a 7 or an 8 will be fine for your setup. The Brisk GR12S is an NGK8 range and it's non projected tip. The Denso IT-22's are an NGK 7 heat range and are also non projected tip.
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:55 AM   #54
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Which would be best out of these for me? TR6 or BR6EF, Im at 600 rwhp/9.5psi with 10:1 & does alot of roun town d/d, tried TR7IX's that came with whipple but after a while started to foul, ran ok but took alot to start. Currently using the ZR1's which seem great but obviously not right choice going by what I've read on forums.
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:34 AM   #55
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I'd switch to the BR6EF or 7. Get away from the projected tip on boost.

I favor to go colder than most do and only go a step hotter if I foul one out. I'm running the 7's on E85 at 10 psi.
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:40 AM   #56
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So you were at 11 psi and 715 RWHP on -6 projected tip plugs? Pretty good chance they were turning into glow plugs and caused detonation. I would have used at least a 7 heat range, if the meth shot was small and/or the fuel was less than 93 octane I would have used an 8.

Another thing to add for anyone reading......a forged motor won't last any longer or hold any more power than the stock motor if the plugs are too hot. It creates detonation (preignition to be exact) that timing retard by the computer's knock sensor cannot help.
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:43 AM   #57
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When i was at 758whp with my D1SC PatG my tuner likes BR7EF.

I will very soon be over 1000whp and my new tuner and shop like the B8EFS plugs.

So you should be either -7 or -8 heat range and your tuner will have his favorite
A friendly bit of advise at 1000 rwhp you need more than a 8...IT 27 would be the plug for you....
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Old 02-24-2014, 12:15 PM   #58
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A friendly bit of advise at 1000 rwhp you need more than a 8...IT 27 would be the plug for you....
Thanks, but given the fact its a street car that will never see the 1/4 and running dual -10 meth nozzles i think the -8s will be the best.

When i do make it to the road course i plan on dialing the boost way back to 8psi anyway.

I will see what my tuner thinks also...of course.
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:21 PM   #59
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Thanks, but given the fact its a street car that will never see the 1/4 and running dual -10 meth nozzles i think the -8s will be the best.

When i do make it to the road course i plan on dialing the boost way back to 8psi anyway.

I will see what my tuner thinks also...of course.
If you make 1000hp you will need the plug, weather your nailing it in the church parking lot or the track...If your not making 1000
Hp then you don't need it.with the ids it helps with idol so Dyno operators don't have as much problem as they would with a NGK that cold.....Tuners never have a problem
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Old 02-24-2014, 08:37 PM   #60
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Church parking lot LOL

Info is spot on. Bout spit my pop through my nose on that one tho.
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:37 AM   #61
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If you make 1000hp you will need the plug, weather your nailing it in the church parking lot or the track...If your not making 1000
Hp then you don't need it.with the ids it helps with idol so Dyno operators don't have as much problem as they would with a NGK that cold.....Tuners never have a problem
Im asking my tuner/shop about the NGK B9EFS which cross references with the Denso IT27.
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Old 02-25-2014, 02:52 PM   #62
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Im asking my tuner/shop about the NGK B9EFS which cross references with the Denso IT27.
Good heat range but the denzo plug is much better imo
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Old 02-25-2014, 07:04 PM   #63
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Im asking my tuner/shop about the NGK B9EFS which cross references with the Denso IT27.
Densos are made by NGK. Its their premier line. Iridium. I am having excellent luck with the Denso so far.
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Old 02-27-2014, 05:53 PM   #64
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okay guys I use a Br7ef with 22psi on straight 93 octane pump gas and have no detonation whatsoever, why use an 8 or colder plug? Also the 8's don't have a resistor in the plug which my pump speed controller doesn't like. I think you would loose power with a plug too cold and cause low-rpm misfires even if its not cold enough to foul.
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Old 02-27-2014, 11:36 PM   #65
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Quote:
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okay guys I use a Br7ef with 22psi on straight 93 octane pump gas and have no detonation whatsoever, why use an 8 or colder plug? Also the 8's don't have a resistor in the plug which my pump speed controller doesn't like. I think you would loose power with a plug too cold and cause low-rpm misfires even if its not cold enough to foul.
What's the static compression and bore size on that 22 psi monster? I'm assuming that's the hotrod with the 4 liter whipple strapped to it. I'm curious about IATs and all other variables involved as I have become a member of the colder is safer fan club over the last 4 years. If you could share a little more on this matter perhaps you can educate me a little. Thanks
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:43 PM   #66
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okay guys I use a Br7ef with 22psi on straight 93 octane pump gas and have no detonation whatsoever, why use an 8 or colder plug? Also the 8's don't have a resistor in the plug which my pump speed controller doesn't like. I think you would loose power with a plug too cold and cause low-rpm misfires even if its not cold enough to foul.
It depends on all the other factors. DCR means a lot. I'm betting your DCR is low compared to a stock L99 or LS3 running decent boost. If your motor is built for boost and cammed for boost you likely can get away with a little warmer plug than if not. If the 7's are working great for your setup then stay with them.
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Old 03-02-2014, 01:26 AM   #67
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What's the static compression and bore size on that 22 psi monster? I'm assuming that's the hotrod with the 4 liter whipple strapped to it. I'm curious about IATs and all other variables involved as I have become a member of the colder is safer fan club over the last 4 years. If you could share a little more on this matter perhaps you can educate me a little. Thanks
DCR is pretty low and intake air temps are awesome and when I say awesome i dont necessarily mean the starting temps are too awesome but inlet air temps take ALOT of time to go up and this is without even using the meth its unbeleivable. Now I do have a large intercooler resevoir a Meziere 20gpm pump, a HUGE intercooler core under the blower (sand rail kit blower) complimented nicely with a KDI dual pass heat exchanger, the largest heat exchanger ive seen for a camaro and it works pretty well. I can show you some logs if youre interested.

This is on a 4.125 bore and 4.0 stroke for a 427, so thats flowing alot of air
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Old 03-02-2014, 07:03 AM   #68
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DCR is pretty low and intake air temps are awesome and when I say awesome i dont necessarily mean the starting temps are too awesome but inlet air temps take ALOT of time to go up and this is without even using the meth its unbeleivable. Now I do have a large intercooler resevoir a Meziere 20gpm pump, a HUGE intercooler core under the blower (sand rail kit blower) complimented nicely with a KDI dual pass heat exchanger, the largest heat exchanger ive seen for a camaro and it works pretty well. I can show you some logs if youre interested.

This is on a 4.125 bore and 4.0 stroke for a 427, so thats flowing alot of air
The awesome IAT and the low DCR is why the 7 heat range is ok for you. I'm using a 8 heat range on a bone stock, stock cammed L99 at 13 psi and a 125 shot. I've seen IAT hit 160F. This was before meth. 7 heat range worked but I went to an 8 to be a little extra safe.
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