Centerforce Dyad Clutch blown up

[axnhose]

Finally removed the trans from my '13 ZL1 after Synergy did all the engine mods, and they also installed a Centerforce Dual Disc Dyad clutch. This $2700.00 (with installation/labor as well) clutch had 1 pass, well only 3/4 of a pass on it before it broke.

I put 500 street miles on the clutch, just as Rick instructed me to do. Trailered the car to the track, did my burn out, and mildly launched the car off the line. It shifted into 2nd and 3rd just fine, but as I tried to shift into 4th, it wouldn't go in, kinda like hitting a wall. Kept it in neutral, and coasted through the lights at a 11.20 @ 110mph.

On a positive note, at the top of 3rd gear, I was at 127mph on the HUD. It should have picked up another 8-10mph the last 400' or so, putting the pass at 135-137mph and low 10's of an ET. Getting the car to launch better might get it into the 9's, and obviously having a clutch that will handle the power.

Not sure what the plan of attack is now, but I am hoping it is under warranty. Rick won't touch it, so hopefully Centerforce will.

[Nickey31]

I've gone through a couple of clutches. I am not a mechanic and I don't have the knowledge the tuners have, so don't take my word for it, but do pass this onto your mechanic or tuner for their input.

I worked with RAM, and discovered some issues affecting the clutch. So no matter what clutch you go with, I am convinced you need to make other changes. I am currently using a RAM Triple disc.

1. GM used -3AN lines for the brakes and the clutch. Typically clutch lines are a minimum -4AN.

2. Lingenfelter sells a heavier return spring, which I use.

3. Need an improved release bearing.

4. Installed the clutch/brake reservoir separator. Not sure if that actually does anything. I can tell you that the smaller reservoir makes it a real PITA to bleed the system after replacing the clutch.

But even with all of those changes, I believe it won't make a difference unless you have -4AN lines and fittings throughout and that goes with the master cylinder. I think the below is a complete list to increase the Inside Diameter of all lines and fittings for the clutch system:

1. Modified Master Cylinder from Ideal Garage. Increased diameter, increased pressure, increased volume.

2. -4An Braided Hydraulic Clutch Line from Tick Performance. That runs from the master to the slave and is also insulated.

3. Replace all fittings with -4AN

4. Ram Clutches have improved slaves, release bearings, and Ram has a clutch peddle adjuster so I was able to adjust the peddle so that the clutch engaged much earlier in the peddle movement.

[Nickey31]

I should add that I am green in envy with the possibility of hitting low 10's to 9's with an M6 with only bolt-on mods.

[10aSSee D]

Seems there are a few with problems with this clutch.

[fif_gen_powa]

in before any warranty denied and it was your fault for racing the car

[axnhose]

My fault for racing the car? Really? The clutch was built for a racing application, and it broke 8 seconds after it was actually put into use.

I expected to get all kinds of comments, as there is lovers and haters out there. That guy is obviously a hater!

[fif_gen_powa]

A hater of what? Bad products with little to no support from the manufacturer. There is plenty of bad experiences of this already if you look around. Oh and you'll be joining the club shortly. Welcome

[axnhose]

OH, sorry. I misinterpreted what you meant. Yes, it is unfortunate that the shop that did the install of the said clutch denied to do any work on my car, let alone repair what they installed, or at least be interested in what happened/broke. It just goes to show you, you cant trust anybody, especially friends of friends. LOL

[yotaman96]

Looks like a slave cylinder failure to me.

[ADM PERFORMANCE]

So far we have had good luck with them,no failures.

We use stock slave cylinders with our aluminum piston and viper bearing.

[fif_gen_powa]

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...highlight=dyad

Sorry to hear about your experience, clutch failure is a bitch Goodluck to you

[Boother]

Originally Posted by Nickey31

1. Modified Master Cylinder from Ideal Garage. Increased diameter, increased pressure, increased volume.

That is not how hydraulics work. The increased master diameter results in lower pressure exerted for a given pedal force hence why the pedal gets heavier. It does move a greater volume of fluid for the same stroke but that also gives up pedal modulation and makes a clutch more of an on/off switch.

[Nickey31]

Originally Posted by Boother

That is not how hydraulics work. The increased master diameter results in lower pressure exerted for a given pedal force hence why the pedal gets heavier. It does move a greater volume of fluid for the same stroke but that also gives up pedal modulation and makes a clutch more of an on/off switch.

We'll add hydraulics engineer to the list of things I am not.
As I stated before, pass these onto your tuner or whoever and follow their lead.

Andy, I thought you used the Monster Triple disc for your high HP cars?

[ADM PERFORMANCE]

Originally Posted by Nickey31

We'll add hydraulics engineer to the list of things I am not.
As I stated before, pass these onto your tuner or whoever and follow their lead.

Andy, I thought you used the Monster Triple disc for your high HP cars?

We use RPS TRIPLE AND QUAD DISC ON OUR BIGGEST BUILDS

I use Dyad on my World Record Holding CTSV as well as our 1000 hp 1le twin turbo packages