08-21-2014, 01:57 PM | #491 |
ICANHAZ
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My car is driven daily thats why i didnt understand about the battery drain
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08-21-2014, 08:37 PM | #492 |
KNGTFALL
Drives: 2012 2SS 45th edition Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: (Near) Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,533
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Are you leaving the HP module switch on all the time and using the app to shut off the lights?
and yes the technostalgias draw IIRC 50ma when they are off. I believe there was a work around hooking the power wire up to the Amp since it was switched. You could just have a crap battery/weak cell, and something is draining it overnight. |
12-11-2014, 09:57 AM | #493 |
Drives: 2LS Inferno Orange "PHOENIX" Join Date: May 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 681
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Can I run the nightowl underglow to my existing colorshift v2 control box so when the halos are on so is the underglow and it will be the same color as the halos are set
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PHOENIX 323HP "LEGENDS NEVER DIE" |
12-11-2014, 10:19 AM | #494 |
Camaro CRAZY
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This should replace your current control boxes. Then you can use the nightowl kit to run all of your LEDs itself, giving you all of it's neat features.
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12-11-2014, 10:25 AM | #495 | ||
Drives: 2011 SS Convertible Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Suwanee, GA
Posts: 373
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Quote:
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When you are ready to jazz your current halos, replace your current controller with our SL Starter Kit and let the real fun begin! |
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12-17-2014, 05:49 PM | #496 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Convertible in VR Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Edwardsville, IL
Posts: 240
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Currently running 2SL Modules, the HP module, full underglow, Headlight and fog halo's, Grill lighting, and a third SL going in this winter for wheel lights. When your ready for anything other than stock, Call Joe at NightOwl. Second to none customer support and system flexibility. AND yes, I'm a fan if you can't tell LOL.
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SICC, Southern Illinois Camaro Club On Facebook
2011 SS/RS LS3/M6 convertible Victory Red, Black top w/Nightshades 1LE graphics Whipple 2.9L with 3.875" pulley CBI ESAD cam with Tooley springs ADM fuel with ID850 injectors DSX Tune MGW shifter 20" TSW Nurbering 275/315 Nitto NT05 Carlyle Performance 15" kit with Pfadt solid subframe inserts C.A.I. cold air intake SLP LT headers, 3" exhaust, no cats, x-pipe ZL1 dual mode mufflers Lighting controlled by NightOwl 2010 SS/RS LS3 - SOLD- #15,852 build date 06/05/2009 CGM w/flat black stripes |
12-20-2014, 09:03 AM | #497 |
Drives: 2010 IOM Camaro Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: DFW
Posts: 3,112
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I have similar issues with battery drain on my system. I have TONS of lighting and use 4 SL boxes currently. My lights range from Upper and lower Halos, Demon eyes, Under glow, Grill lighting, engine lighting, side vent lighting, and the list goes on. I have after burners as well.
My battery drain has been occurring long before Night Owl system installed. From what I understand could be coming from the After Burners. Several have reported similar issues with after burners. Mine is not a daily driver so battery tend when not. At some point will do some re wiring in order to find the drain |
12-20-2014, 09:42 AM | #498 | |
Drives: 2011 SS Convertible Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Suwanee, GA
Posts: 373
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We need to teach you how to use an ammeter to measure current. You can do this with any multi-meter. While our controllers don't draw a lot of power when no lights are on, we always have recommended putting the modules behind a switch and turning them off when stored. Our existing (V1) SL Modules draw about 47mA (0.047A) without any lights. Several of these can add up if left on. You can hook up the ammeter to the tail lights, and see what they draw. To do this, your mutli-meter probes need to be inserted in the holes for measuring amps. Then the probes need to go in-line with the circuit. For example, +12V source --> multi-meter black probe --> multi-meter red probe --> +12V input to tail lights. Set your meter to Amps mode, and see what the tail lights are drawing. Our new (V2) SL Modules in the works and the new miniSL draw about 10mA in standby mode. Reserve capacity of a battery is more important for cars with LED lighting and other accessories designed to operate when the car is not running. You also want a deep-cycle battery so that it doesn't get ruined by running the battery low. Normally batteries with large reserve capacity are also deep-cycle batteries. But the normal car batteries are rarely deep-cycle batteries. It is best to find a good battery for this purpose. It is always a good idea to put a battery tender on the car if it is being parked for more than a few days. |
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12-20-2014, 10:28 AM | #499 |
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i have 2 issues i want to get fixed,,1) how do i change the default colors? when in default on mode? my driver halos are always light blue..and my drls are light real light bluish..? cant seem to change them, i tried to re-set ,unplug, remove fuses temp.? 2nd) i cant seem to get WHITE..its always a semi.purple color? thanks for an help.
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12-20-2014, 11:27 AM | #500 | |
Drives: 2011 SS Convertible Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Suwanee, GA
Posts: 373
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I realize that we haven't done a good enough job on educating people on some of the features. We'll be doing a video in the next week on just this one feature. Basically, white is made up of red, green, and blue. Every LED has a different brightness for each of these 3 colors, and they can change over time. If the color is purplish, then you will need to turn down red and blue, while leaving green 100%. Once this is done for each device, all of your mixed colors: yellow, cyan, orange, etc. should match very closely. Here are the steps...I usually use a reference light such as a driving light or some other white light that I want to match to. So turn on a reference light. The steps to perform color correction are: 1. Set lights to default by using "Idle Default" in the app. Stop any programs running. 2. Go into the settings in the app, and under the modules you should see your halo kit module. This is where all of the settings for the module are...where you assign the default colors, the channel numbers, as well as the color correction. 3. For each device, set the default color to full white (100% red, green, blue). 4. For each device, alter the color correction by bringing down red and blue (if it is purplish). Be sure to turn the brightness back to 100% if you adjust all 3 colors. |
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12-20-2014, 11:32 AM | #501 | |
Drives: 2010 IOM Camaro Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: DFW
Posts: 3,112
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As for Pure white Halos good luck. I have tried everything possible. Lights always turn out slightly blueish even when diving into the Custom Color correction. This occurs on my Camaro and Smart car Night owl setups. This is the ONLY issue I have found with both my Night owl setups on two different cars. Joe can chime in better on this, but it would be nice to have PURE white setting from the start universal to all LED's set to factory pure white. With my system the PURE white setting from Night owl is either slightly blue tinge on some LEDS or slightly yellow on others. As stated even with color correction unable to achieve the "PURE" white factory look. |
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12-20-2014, 11:47 AM | #502 |
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Ok, I will keep trying with default? But no luck so far..I can't find default chanel settings? ..as for the white issue my wife chimed in here and even said..that leds.seem to have a bluish tint normally..so i guess until someone changes led bulbs?.lol this is the way it is..it seems to me at night it is better ..then daytime for some reason....
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12-20-2014, 01:27 PM | #503 | |
Drives: 2011 SS Convertible Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Suwanee, GA
Posts: 373
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If you are talking about the white DRL bulbs, that color cannot be changed. If you are talking about our DRL Halos, you can color-correct those by turning down the green and blue. |
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12-20-2014, 04:01 PM | #504 |
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Thanks..I reinstalled the app..my bad..some how I lost front hp..it's fine now and colors I prefer for default..thnx again...
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