Hotchkis vs LG Motorsports brace?

[chuckclanton]

Anyone with opinions? Don't want to deal with cradle bushings!

[grocerygetter]

buy which ever one you can get cheaper.

[JDP Sales]

Neither. IMO, the chassis braces are somewhat of a bandaid. Doing a set of solid subframe/cradle bushings will be much more beneficial for eliminating cradle movement.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by Sales@JDP

Neither. IMO, the chassis braces are somewhat of a bandaid. Doing a set of solid subframe/cradle bushings will be much more beneficial for eliminating cradle movement.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

I definitely agree with Tyler, you will see very minimal improvement in eliminating rear cradle movement with the chassis braces/stiffeners. Really the only way to control/eliminate the rear cradle movement is with rear cradle inserts or full bushings replacements. We have a couple different offerings depending on your power level and goals with your car. Here is what we offer here at BMR:

BMR rear cradle insert (BK040)


BMR full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings (BK024)


BMR solid delrin rear cradle bushings (BK027)

[Fast6.3]

I got the pedders cradle bushing inserts on my 11 ss vert and they really make a diference for the price i would definatly recommend over the braces

[Piccione Performance]

In our opinion we prefer the Hotchkis brace. When it comes to bushings and inserts, the inserts help but are not recommended on high horsepower builds. 2 separate 700hp cars we have done have forced 1 or more inserts to distort and start to come out. These were from 2 different manufactures. Full poly or alum would be the way to go in a high h.p. application. We like using the brace with the solid poly bushings regardless of bushing manufacture.
Lingenfelter runs the Hotchkis brace on there high H.P. Drag cars, that says a lot right there.
Our shop Camaro is running all solid poly bushings throughout the front and rear suspension and a full Hotchkis suspension and it is extremely stiff and solid but maintains a very comfortable street ride. Most clients cant believe it rides so nice.

To Recap:
Stock Car or mild bolt ons, Chassis brace
Moderate to high H.P. use solid bushings and brace
High H.P. track cars, Solid aluminum bushings

Also remember the subframe bushings in the 2010-2011 cars have move movement, GM upgraded the bushings in the late 11 models and from 12 on. The earlier cars benefit huge from solid bushings and or a brace.

[grocerygetter]

The dude from Phoenix nailed it!

[Apex Motorsports]

Originally Posted by Sales@JDP

Neither. IMO, the chassis braces are somewhat of a bandaid. Doing a set of solid subframe/cradle bushings will be much more beneficial for eliminating cradle movement.

Took the word right out of my mouth. This car's chassis is incredibly stiff and does not need bracing, it is the movement between the chassis and the rear cradle that is the problem. To me it makes a lot more sense to address the problem head on rather than adding unnecessary weight to an already heavy car.

[Dexman1349]

Originally Posted by Piccione Performance

In our opinion we prefer the Hotchkis brace. When it comes to bushings and inserts, the inserts help but are not recommended on high horsepower builds. 2 separate 700hp cars we have done have forced 1 or more inserts to distort and start to come out. These were from 2 different manufactures. Full poly or alum would be the way to go in a high h.p. application. We like using the brace with the solid poly bushings regardless of bushing manufacture.
Lingenfelter runs the Hotchkis brace on there high H.P. Drag cars, that says a lot right there.
Our shop Camaro is running all solid poly bushings throughout the front and rear suspension and a full Hotchkis suspension and it is extremely stiff and solid but maintains a very comfortable street ride. Most clients cant believe it rides so nice.

To Recap:
Stock Car or mild bolt ons, Chassis brace
Moderate to high H.P. use solid bushings and brace
High H.P. track cars, Solid aluminum bushings

Also remember the subframe bushings in the 2010-2011 cars have move movement, GM upgraded the bushings in the late 11 models and from 12 on. The earlier cars benefit huge from solid bushings and or a brace.

Many would argue that even the stock SS Camaro's fall into the Moderate category and need the solid bushings. A lot of it depends on how you drive it though. If you're just going to granny-gear it, you don't need to do anything. If you're getting aggressive in the corners with a daily driver, then go with the solid bushings.

The brace would be my LAST suspension upgrade. This would come after (in this order) bushings, sway bars, springs/coil-overs, and a track specific wheel/tire setup ("square" for Auto X or Drag radials/skinnys). Even then, I wouldn't do it unless I was competitive Auto-crossing it or running some serious HP at the drag strip (650+)