03-13-2015, 12:32 AM | #15 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Twin Turbo Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
Posts: 240
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To add to what everyone else is saying, Spring compressor is not needed. Just make sure you point it (the coilover) away from your face just in case, but there is only a couple of pounds of pressure on it once it is off the car. An impact wrench is more helpful than anything with the entire process if one is available.
Other than that, having someone handy to help you get the new spring on the shock will help but is not necessary. If you dont have anyone you will have to juggle compressing the spring a little and threading a nut at the same time. I have Apex/Pfadt 1.25 and I love them. I really think 1.25 is the perfect height. no fitment issues with wheels and tires, it is low enough to catch some parking curbs on the splitter if I werent paying attention but Ive yet to scrape on any inclines or roads.
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03-14-2015, 04:34 PM | #16 | |
Drives: 2016 Garnet Red 1SS Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Tucson
Posts: 208
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03-16-2015, 11:23 AM | #17 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
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$150 for a set of ZL1 take-off springs from the Camaro5 classifieds.
$0 for the install (I did it myself) $100 for the alignment The install was pretty straight forward and was done over the course of the weekend in my garage with jackstands. I spent more time installing other parts at the same time (trailing arm, toe rods, cradle bushings, UCA bushings) than I did on the springs themselves. It was the first time doing the springs and I would say I would spend probably 5-6 hours if I was only doing the springs themselves. It's important to get all of the tools out ahead of time so you're not searching. Almost everything under there is a 21mm, 18mm, or 15mm and it's helpful to have a socket and wrench in each size. If you do it yourself, be sure to use a grease pen to mark the position of the eccentric bolts so that when you reassemble you can put it back to pretty much the same position which will help buy you a few days if you can't get the alignment done right away.
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
03-16-2015, 11:43 AM | #18 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Twin Turbo Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
Posts: 240
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For those that don't get what he is saying take a grease pen (I used a sharpie instead) and trace this section of you front coilover onto your spoindle before you loosen anything. There is a lot of play in the mounting holes because this is part of the adjustments for your alignment. by tracing it, you can get it pretty close to being properly aligned when you reinstall so if you have to wait a few days to get your car aligned you wont ruin your tires or put uneeded wear on everything else.
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03-16-2015, 03:17 PM | #19 |
Camaro5
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2LT Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: WA
Posts: 1,155
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bought my springs on a good deal and paid 250 to have em installed..
eibach rides just like stock, i cant tell a difference until i see no more wheel gap.
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