JMS Fuel Max Install

[E. Bryant]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

Both will work for 12 volts to the BAP, that's not my point, where is the fuse protection for the FSCM in this example. Without any you are assuming the BAP in a worst case scenario will short and blow the 40AMP fuse included with the BAP, but what if the BAP malfunctions and puts a amperage more than 30 but less than 40, the FSCM and pump are exposed.

Philosophically, fuses are used in automotive systems to protect wires against "hard" shorts to grounds, and cannot be trusted to open ("blow") quickly enough to protect any system loads or sources. Look at some fuse clearing curves and you will quickly get the concept.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by E. Bryant

Philosophically, fuses are used in automotive systems to protect wires against "hard" shorts to grounds, and cannot be trusted to open ("blow") quickly enough to protect any system loads or sources. Look at some fuse clearing curves and you will quickly get the concept.

Yep I get that, but I improved my chances by putting and inline 30amp vs exposing the FCPM to whatever comes out of the BAP as it only had a 25 amp fuse originally.

[SamHouseIII]

Installed this and kinda of lost to know he settings, or what or even how to set it. I understand dip switch 1 must be on to program it, but what I'm not understanding is how to adjust the input voltage and put out? Also I understand that 3 and 5 should be left it on if using the plug and play..I have the input setting to the 3rd line, and the put out to max, the voltage put out should 18v max output? I'm lost and did not see the settings or can confirm settings?

[SamHouseIII]

I was thinking about installing my GoPro to see if the LED is fflashing at anytime.

[DrkPhx]

^^^ I assume it's the TPS activated version. Turn the key on/engine off and press the gas pedal to WOT and have someone confirm if the LED is blinking; or you can record it with a camera if no one else is around. As for the settings; you can confirm the voltage output with a digital multi meter. I found 17-18 volts to be optimal. I tried 15.8v on my friends V and it didn't help with the fuel pressure; bumped it up to 17v and it holds pressure at WOT. You also need to data log fuel pressure to confirm it as well.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by SamHouseIII

Installed this and kinda of lost to know he settings, or what or even how to set it. I understand dip switch 1 must be on to program it, but what I'm not understanding is how to adjust the input voltage and put out? Also I understand that 3 and 5 should be left it on if using the plug and play..I have the input setting to the 3rd line, and the put out to max, the voltage put out should 18v max output? I'm lost and did not see the settings or can confirm settings?

With the BAP hot/powered/green light steady, flip dip swt 1 to on, now place your meter common/black wire to ground or neg side of the battery, the red wire of your meter to the white output of the JMS, adjust the output pot to 17.48 volts by touching the small grey and black wires together at the pedal end of the harness. As soon as you touch these two wires together you have started a ground trigger to the BAP and the green light should be flashing rapidly. Adjust output to 17.48

If you have already installed the white wire of the BAP you will need to find a way to get the red wire of your meter to that wire. Once that is done turn on the key to the start pos which will provide DC voltage from the pedal. Now Have someone hold the pedal at 1/2 to 3/4 while you now adjust the input trigger voltage to match 17.48 voltage of the output. You may have to turn the input voltage pot to 3.5 volts before it senses your pedal. Once it does your meter should go from battery voltage (12.xx volts) to upper 14.xx, and continue to rise as you press the pedal past halfway. Adjust the input voltage to begin to ramp around Half to 3/4 throttle, and at full throttle it should match the 17.48 volts. If your could not get your output at exactly to 17.48, (something less like 17.44 or .45) then just match the input trigger to have the same number at full throttle.

When you accomplish this just hit the #1 dip switch to off while the BAP is still powered and the green light should flash really fast for a sec and your config is saved.

If you don't have the BAP installed yet you can just connect it to the battery and set the unit in the back seat with the rear seat back folded down and then you hang your meter off it and adjust while you sit in the drivers seat. But if its installed you will need a helper to work the gas pedal. You can tape your phone in the trunk to test the trigger once your are complete to get and ideal exactly where the flashing light/trigger comes in as you add pedal while driving.

[SamHouseIII]

Thanks guys. Going to put a meter to it today.

[SamHouseIII]

Thanks guys, found out the input voltage was set to high, I put a meter to the output side and videoed it, 17.7 at WOT, I will datalog it next and see if that's what I need to maintain fuel pressure. I attached a pic of the final settings on my JMS

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by SamHouseIII

Thanks guys, found out the input voltage was set to high, I put a meter to the output side and videoed it, 17.7 at WOT, I will datalog it next and see if that's what I need to maintain fuel pressure. I attached a pic of the final settings on my JMS

That voltage at WOT is correct my friend.

Ted.

[SamHouseIII]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

That voltage at WOT is correct my friend.

Ted.

Ted, You're always spot on !!

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by SamHouseIII

Ted, You're always spot on !!

Its that bottle of Jack you gave me

[SamHouseIII]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Its that bottle of Jack you gave me

Hopefully we'll have a drink at Camaro Fest next time..lol

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by SamHouseIII

Hopefully we'll have a drink at Camaro Fest next time..lol

Motorhome is fully stocked