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Old 11-08-2014, 03:52 PM   #71
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In regards to the charcoal.
Is it ok to put kingsford charcoal Bridgettes in the trunk ?

I will assume that's untreated charcoal ??
Putting the car away tomorrow. Will put charcoal in a plastic bag in the passenger floor and dryer sheets in the trunk

Thanks guys.
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:48 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by aurora View Post
Does anyone know if #5 Applies to Goodyear Eagle F1 tires?? its not only flatspots but cracking to worry about. My dealership recommended jacking car up....I don't really want to do that.

DO NOT DO THIS !!!!! Magnetic Shocks need preload. Leave it on the ground and park it on some carpet or insulating foam from a hardware store.
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Old 11-10-2014, 12:33 PM   #73
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DO NOT DO THIS !!!!! Magnetic Shocks need preload. Leave it on the ground and park it on some carpet or insulating foam from a hardware store.
Okay, thanks charlietuna. I've done a version of the above.

Winter has set in now and car is not moving. One small regret - I should have put a bit more air in tires. Too late now.

I must say, I hate the manual...a lot of useless verbage, and always referring you to flip to another section....which in turn, tells you to flip to yet another section. For most things, tend to find better info here.

Still deciding what to do with battery. Have not hooked it up to a tender but there is time for that. I always hate to unhook battery from any vehicle, same with dead battery and boosting, disrupting electrical system....I don't like to mess with it, as per my experiences with past vehicles....and replacing many batteries and alternators. Maybe its just this freaking climate.

I don't know if my ZL1 comes with a blockheater, I have not explored for that yet, but should not matter while parked anyways. One less thing to worry about.
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Old 03-23-2015, 07:55 PM   #74
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Wrong imo. I've been storing my antique cars for many years and believe:
1) The worst thing you can do to a stored car is start it up ever couple of weeks. Let it sit !
2) I always change the oil and filter AFTER winter storage, not before.
Again, just my opinion.
#1 I agree the worst thing for an engine is cold starts.

#2 I disagree - imo clean oil is key for winter storage. During normal operation your engine oil has very corrosive deposits floating around in it. I see no reason to let them sit there all winter. Any condensation your new oil may draw over winter will quickly be evaporated at the first good heat up

I also disagree with filling your tank. Anyone that has experienced phase separation will tend to agree with me. Ethanol draws moisture and I see no advantage having to run a full tank of stale gas thru your engine
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:01 PM   #75
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ya we have plastic tanks so no need to fill it. Im putting a new cam in and i have to get a safe tune so I can drive all the gas and seafoam out befor it goes on the dyno.
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Old 09-28-2015, 11:54 AM   #76
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Lets agree: Opinions vary on this.
But, A long time master mechanic once told me the worst
thing you can do to an engine is start it up. Makes since imo
since so many ice cold parts rubbing together equals engine wear.
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Old 09-28-2015, 12:12 PM   #77
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My desiel instructor years ago said the same thing ;o)

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Old 09-28-2015, 04:25 PM   #78
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One thing that I might add is apply a good coat of Carnauba paste wax before covering for the winter......the paste wax gives you better protection from the cover scratching your paint.

http://adamspolishes.com/shop/exteri...triot-wax.html

http://adamspolishes.com/shop/exteri...aste-wax4.html
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Old 11-01-2015, 06:15 AM   #79
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Whats best??? battery Tender to the battery in the trunk or under the hood.

Thanks in advance
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Old 11-01-2015, 03:45 PM   #80
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Whats best??? battery Tender to the battery in the trunk or under the hood.

Thanks in advance
I have hooked mine each of the past 5 years to the under the hood location. I have had no ill effects doing it this way.
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Old 11-12-2015, 12:09 AM   #81
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So do you leave your battery connected to your vehicle when you connect the tender?? Thanks
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Old 11-12-2015, 11:06 AM   #82
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Quote:
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Whats best??? battery Tender to the battery in the trunk or under the hood.

Thanks in advance
I never understood the need for a battery tender when storing a car. To me it's
just something to sell you. On my collector cars, both 6 & 12 volt I just disconnect
the neg cable from the battery. Then in the Spring I charge the battery for a few
hours and off I go. Of course I don't really know if this shortens the battery life or
not, but mine aways seem to last a long time.
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:55 AM   #83
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Intimidat3r has it right, just for flat spots and for a moisture barrier using a 3" rigid foam insulation board will take care of both those issues. Just use a hand saw or utility knife to cut an angle in the Styrofoam to be able to drive onto it. Do not start the car during winter. Starting the car actually creates moisture. Winter is usually a dry season. Starting your car creates heat and when shut off will condensate with the cold air.
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Old 01-03-2016, 10:11 AM   #84
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It makes sense that parking the car with a high performance motor would decrease the strength of the valve springs. It also is known to many mechanics and owners of planes with piston engines that the internal, dissimilar metals expand and contract at different rates in extreme winter conditions. The pistons may be of a different metal/alloy than the rings, cylinder heads, block, etc. If I lived in KY or a warm(er) weather state, I just might fire it up for a good while on a warmer winter day. And if no salt on the road, drive it too!

Given the colder temps here in MN, I am going to let it sit. Although enclosed, it is not in a heated garage. Thus I am also sweating what the condition of the tires will be in Apr/May. I did take people's good suggestions to put down a tarp on the concrete, and parked it on the Race Ramp Flatstoppers. I also put a car cover on it, which mostly covers the tires.

Interesting about tire inflation. I would guess that putting extra air pressure in the tires would make them more prone to cracking but less prone to flat spotting. I wish in hindsight I had taken a little bit of air pressure out of the tires, particularly since I spent the $$ on the Flatstoppers.

In regards to the fuel tank, if it is plastic, maybe less chance for condensation than if metal, but gotta believe cold winter temps up here still would present condensation risk, so I do have the tank almost completely full.

I hope people will continue this thread with further actual results and suggestions. It is helpful.

Thank you.
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