Blown motor! Help.

[Unreal]

Originally Posted by Russell James

A tear down may find some clues. Like under the timing cover did the cam gear move? Cam bolt broke? Was PTV checked on the cam install.

I'm doubting detonation. An LS3 is pretty indestructible without a power adder. In modded motor that goes kablooey, I believe in the u touched it theory. What was recently touched? Cam install? I'd wager most likely to do with the cam install.

Single bolt cam? PTV checked? Dowel pin on cam sheared off? Drop a valve? Tons on possibilities. It had to be tuned. To be so far off on the tune to explode an NA motor known for its indestructibility? Doubt it.

Actually, pretty damn easy to pop one with a bad tune. They are solid with a good tune, but a bad tune can pop even a billet crazy 3khp+ rated motor at 400hp NA if it is tuned bad.

[Phenix]

Did you have a tune? What was your AFR?

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[1KillerSS]

Your going to have to tear it apart to find out what caused it. It would be helpful to have some more details about your car, mods and usage. Before and at failure.

[pickwithaustin]

Originally Posted by Camaross011

And tonight I was about to get on it for fun rev up

[Gen_Nick3.8]

Well you're SOL!

[Pluto]

Originally Posted by Gen_Nick3.8

Well you're SOL!

Nah, you think?

[Camaross011]

Yeah that's the next step is to tear it all down and see what could have caused it I feel like the tune might have been off maybe. Had the cam install about 3 months ago. 238/244. Was running great the entire time and I would get on it at least twice a week for a few runs. Few burnouts here and there. There was a ticking sound right before it blew but was to late once I let off the throttle. I had Change the rods and springs with steel retainers and did a truion upgrade and it was a 3 bolt cam. Not other major mods besides cai and exhaust. Running on 93. The piston looks has it might have been detonation. Not sure quiet yet have not got a good look at it. Will have more picture to come once I tear it down. Also since this will cost me a nice penny any recommendation on what route to go on motor plan is to go boost eventually. So any tips would help to buy a new crate motor or a used motor. Should I stroke it out before I put it in budget for now is around 15k??!! So anything ideas would help.
Will keep everyone posted on the the tear down.

[christianchevell]

Basically everything you have is mostly trash now, for boost go 416 or lower for a stroker if you want one, above that it is N/A for a ls3 stroker and you have the option of iron or aluminum but remember aluminum weighs less..70 lbs, and the stock block is only 1200 bare. Iron if you buy what ever can be more expensive and you would want to look into if its re-sleevable versus bore-able as our stock blocks can only be honed .020. Darton makes a nice spendy iron re-sleevable block more for racing though with nice features yet spendy and aluminum heads have to periodically be re-torqued due to the expansion and contraction difference. Crate motor for $6500 complete on ebay with fuel rails intake exhaust etc..... but stock and with parts you could resell..... Or go customized, FSP someone mentioned sometimes does specials, as do many others, yet you go looking in the wrong shop and they think their stuff is so special it should cost twice what others charge. And yes summer is the worst time to get engine work...as shops are so busy, I know I am waiting for over a month now and soon will get my engine installed that's been there over a month with all my parts, and I bought the engine $400 cheaper in colder weather. And your tick was most likely a broken spring.... Lesson learned.

[1KillerSS]

ERL, Lingenfelter, and Livernois all make killer engines. Since you need a short block, your looking in the 8 to 10 grand range. Motor only. At least from those vendors, and I am talking about a forged bottom end for boost. That kinda money on a short block will get you into the 900 to 1300 whp range. Ask me how I know. Your budget of 15 won't get you there with supporting mods, and turbos, or SC.

As for size...there are plenty of 429 cubic inch FI motors running around, I dont know why you would HAVE to do a 416 or lower. Depending on desired power level will dictate if your going with an aluminum or iron block.

You can get a short block for less, especially if your doing it yourself. Or if you source and buy the parts yourself, then find a builder to put it together.That would most likely put you within the goal of FI with a 15 grand budget.

You said you changed your rods? Sounds like a good starting place to look for your failure. Its nice that some people are so sharp that they can tell you that a broken spring caused it.

As for ebay, I would personally not buy from a internet auction. But that's just me. You can get a short block(stock) less than 3 grand.

[LTRS777]

Before dumping this money into a new engine and FI, i'd figure out the problem or you may do this again a few months from now. Was the car tuned by a tuner locally? who installed the cam? etc...

[1fast]

As most on here may jump and blame the tuner, and its possible but, we have seen 3 Brand new cars this year with less than 7k on motor have the same thing happen and being complete stock cars. 2 of them 1LE and never seen the track, or been tuned.

Hard to say as listed above with other comments. so many things it could be good luck on repairs, if their is any thing we can help with question please feel free to email us

[KaBoom1701]

Since you have a 2011 I assume its paid off...

Just dump 15k down and a 6th Gen 2SS with Mag ride and move on.

[LTRS777]

Originally Posted by KaBoom1701

Since you have a 2011 I assume its paid off...

Just dump 15k down and a 6th Gen 2SS with Mag ride and move on.

Also a great idea lol

[GONIF]

Originally Posted by KaBoom1701

Since you have a 2011 I assume its paid off...

Just dump 15k down and a 6th Gen 2SS with Mag ride and move on.

Sounds like a good idea ,and now would be the time to do it.