[JJR11]

How far can u go with mods / power wise.

HEADS? CAM? NITROUS? FBO?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JJR11

How far can u go with mods / power wise.

HEADS? CAM? NITROUS? FBO?

Heads/cam/FBO are no problem on the SBE. Roughly 700 WHP is about as far as you want to go on the stock pistons and rods and that usually means forced induction to get there. The block and crank can take a lot more punishment thankfully. Nitrous is hard on engines and would not be my choice for an SBE. Plenty of nice supercharger systems these days.. just give it a great tune and some ethanol, and you’ll be in good shape.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by JJR11

How far can u go with mods / power wise.

HEADS? CAM? NITROUS? FBO?

We have Many JRE Super Street brawler packages, running E60 making 750 RWHP for years now that have not had any issues.

[70ls1nova]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

We have Many JRE Super Street brawler packages, running E60 making 750 RWHP for years now that have not had any issues.

is this on LT1's with cast pisons?

[MSU120]

See my signature……running strong with no issues. 7-8lbs of boost and no E either. Wish I had some level of E but…….

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by 70ls1nova

is this on LT1's with cast pistons?

Yes Stock Long Block mean Stock long block.

[adamjwilson]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Heads/cam/FBO are no problem on the SBE. Roughly 700 WHP is about as far as you want to go on the stock pistons and rods and that usually means forced induction to get there. The block and crank can take a lot more punishment thankfully. Nitrous is hard on engines and would not be my choice for an SBE. Plenty of nice supercharger systems these days.. just give it a great tune and some ethanol, and you’ll be in good shape.

Suggest you take Joshinator99's advice here... would not use stock pistons, rods and cam on stock LT1 if going over 700whp... fix the weak link and go forged internals, you will thank yourself in the long run.

[That1guy_tim]

Is there an RPM limit on the stock rod bolts? I think it was the LS motors that needed rod bolts if spinning some RPM?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by That1guy_tim

Is there an RPM limit on the stock rod bolts? I think it was the LS motors that needed rod bolts if spinning some RPM?

We have never seen a rod bolt failure.

We often spin the engines 7200 with cams.

Ted.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by adamjwilson

Suggest you take Joshinator99's advice here... would not use stock pistons, rods and cam on stock LT1 if going over 700whp... fix the weak link and go forged internals, you will thank yourself in the long run.

The HP limit on stock internals is only an OPINION, there is no solid data to back up that number.

You can break an engine at 400 hp if done wrong.

An Lt1 can live a happy life at 900 HP if done right.

You can also break a forged internal engine if done wrong.

Combinations and careful tuning makes all the difference.

Ted.

[That1guy_tim]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

We have never seen a rod bolt failure.

We often spin the engines 7200 with cams.

Ted.

Good to hear. Thanks for the response

[adamjwilson]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

The HP limit on stock internals is only an OPINION, there is no solid data to back up that number.

You can break an engine at 400 hp if done wrong.

An Lt1 can live a happy life at 900 HP if done right.

You can also break a forged internal engine if done wrong.

Combinations and careful tuning makes all the difference.

Ted.

I beg to differ on your OPINION only. Have seen (2) Gen 6s break pistons with less than 800 HP. (The weak link is those stock alum pistons.) Why do you think GM went with forged internals on the ZL1? Have YOU seen broken forged pistons with less than 900-1000 whp? I haven't, if TUNED correctly and driver not doing stupid sh## (like you state above, combinations and tuning makes ALL the difference)
If you are going to pawn your goods on this forum (especially for ~$20K for your 'brawler' package without pistons), please give data that is helpful to those looking for guidance... (stick to the original question asked)

[LT1ornothing]

Originally Posted by adamjwilson

I beg to differ on your OPINION only. Have seen (2) Gen 6s break pistons with less than 800 HP. (The weak link is those stock alum pistons.) Why do you think GM went with forged internals on the ZL1? Have YOU seen broken forged pistons with less than 900-1000 whp? I haven't, if TUNED correctly and driver not doing stupid sh## (like you state above, combinations and tuning makes ALL the difference)
If you are going to pawn your goods on this forum (especially for ~$20K for your 'brawler' package without pistons), please give data that is helpful to those looking for guidance... (stick to the original question asked)

As Ted, Josh, and King have all stated, stock long block LT1 can and has lasted years in the 700 hp region. The ones that last, are correctly tuned with an upgraded fuel system and either running on some ethanol blend or they run exclusively on race fuel. The people who try to push 700+ on pump gas and a prayer are usually the ones that pop.
If you are looking for big power, I agree with you, build the long block. But if you are going to stay around 700, there really is no need to build it other than peace of mind.
Also, Ted has historically provided real data and proven parts combination with verified results and his set ups and tunes keep customers from popping their stock longblocks. The man definitely knows a thing or two about adding boost and longevity to a stock long block LT1.

[Katech_Mike]

We don't like to push stock LT1 shortblocks much further than 700RWHP on E85 for durability reasons.

On pump gas I really don't even like to push them past about 650RWHP.

I would recommend upgrading to a forged shortblock if you want to make more than 700RWHP. We offer a good budget forged shortblock that will take 1,000RWHP.