09-21-2012, 08:37 AM | #15 |
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I don't understand the need to cut away the sheet metal around the back bolt, is the bolt closer to the cowl on the 2011?!?
On another note, I have removed and installed the whole IM and plenum setup multiple times now, probably close to 10 times and I haven't encountered any of these issues.
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09-21-2012, 08:47 AM | #16 |
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If there is unmetered air going in such as due to leak or something loose you will certainly get a CEL for lean condition and/or misfire. If you are not, than most likely something might be hitting. However, as blade stated, I personally ran both 25mm and 12mm spacer on my personal camaro for months and never reinstalled the 2 bolts in the rear. I had zero issue with touching/hitting/rubbing. No noise what so ever. This is indeed interesting. I will touch base with steve and see what he can recommend. Thanks guys
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09-21-2012, 09:19 AM | #17 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 1LT Join Date: Oct 2011
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I originally didn't install the back two bolts and the sheet metal was right against the top of the plenum cover. I didn't have any noise then and should have left well enough alone, but wanted to get those last two bolts in to make it nice and perty . I'm thinking when I cut away enough sheet metal to get the plenum cover bolt and rear IM bolt in, the sheet metal naturally curled up when I used the snips, so I might have pushed the metal back down too far. The vibration was only on hard acceleration last night and only lasted for a couple seconds. This morning I watched my tach to see what the rpm was when it happened and it never happened. So I'm going to put something between the plenum cover and sheet metal to make sure they don't touch and call it a day. I love doing mods but there's nothing worse than creating a new problem after doing something like that. Thanks for all the help and input.
Ben
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09-21-2012, 09:41 AM | #18 |
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Sound like you have a plan However, don't hesitate to let us know if you encounter anymore issues ben.
Jay ------------------------------------- Jay@Velocity Port/MACE USA Direct Email: Velocityport410@Gmail.com |
09-21-2012, 12:07 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
Ben could you post a picture of where you are going to be doing this modification? I am not sure if I am visualizing it correctly. Thanks, John
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09-21-2012, 12:21 PM | #20 |
crazier than a coconut
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btw, you don't need to cut the sheet metal to get the bolts in. you put the rear bolt in the IM (holding it with your right hand) and you slide the rear of the IM into place with the front of the IM up at a 45* angle. rock it in to place and the bolt slides right in...easy day. and you do that WITH the plenum spacer and cover on so you don't have to cut a hole in the wiper cowl for that either. i ran with the MACE 25mm and plenum cover with now issues and plenty of clearance.
how are you keeping the black engine cover in place with the spacer and plenum cover? did you reattach the mounting hardware? if so, that could be your issue if any of that is rattling loose. there were also some brackets toward the front of the IM near the Throttle Body IIRC...metal vibrating on the engine will sound like death. i'd go back through all your steps and recheck/tighten things again. good luck.
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09-21-2012, 07:08 PM | #21 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 1LT Join Date: Oct 2011
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I laid on it pretty good today and the noise is gone so I put everything back together. I'll try to get a pic of it now and hopefully be able to describe it better tomorrow, but basically once I got the IM and everything bolted in place, I took off the wipers and black plastic covers under them. Then I drilled holes in the sheet metal right above the middle rear bolt in the plenum cover and the rear bolt in the IM since I couldn't get to them once the IM was bolted in. Jostling the sheet metal around evidently caused it to start vibrating against the plenum cover so I trimmed away the sheet metal that was closest to it with snips and that did the trick. Also someone said if the rear IM bolt was too long, it may be vibrating against the firewall so I got a shorter bolt to make sure that wasn't it.
Hapisok, I thought about trying your way of getting everything back together but I had an impossible time trying to keep the insulators and gaskets in place while angling the IM. I was doing it myself and that thing is a lot heavier when you're leaning over the bumper trying to get it in just right. And like Jay wrote, I didn't have any issues before I tried putting the last two bolts in but I couldn't leave well enough alone in the event I may have lost 1 HP leaving them out
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09-22-2012, 06:22 AM | #22 |
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If there is unmetered air going in such as due to leak or something loose you will certainly get a CEL for lean condition and/or misfire. If you are not, than most likely something might be hitting. However, as blade stated, I personally ran both 25mm and 12mm spacer on my personal camaro for months and never reinstalled the 2 bolts in the rear. I had zero issue with touching/hitting/rubbing. No noise what so ever. This is indeed interesting. I will touch base with steve and see what he can recommend. Thanks guys
wel that was my issue, vince said I had un metered air but I had no cell, I am hoping that due to the unmetered air is the reason my evap system wont get ready. was surprisded that when I checked the 4 main bolts on the spacer, two were practically loose and required a half turn to be unscrewed, retorgued them and used gasket maker on each of them, hoping it solves my issues
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09-22-2012, 01:17 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
What is the "evap system"?
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09-22-2012, 02:35 PM | #24 |
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Auto Systems and Repair
Evaporative Control (EVAP) System The evaporative control (EVAP) system captures any raw fuel evaporating from the fuel storage system. Under precise operating conditions dictated by engine temperature, speed, and load, the EVAP system purges these captured fuel vapors back into the combustion process. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Fuel Tank The fuel tank stores the fuel. Inside the tank, there is a float that signals the computer systems and/or fuel gauge as to how much fuel is in the tank. On newer vehicles, the fuel pump, fuel, filter, and fuel pressure regulator may also be housed inside the fuel tank. Canister Purge Valve The canister purge valve allows stored fuel vapors in the containment canister to be recycled back into the engine combustion process when necessary. More >> pulled it off the web as I am not intelligent enough to explain it--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Last edited by mydreamcar; 09-22-2012 at 02:35 PM. Reason: fix |
09-22-2012, 08:31 PM | #25 |
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Well got these 3 codes on the car today, but no check engine light
P0300 Cyl misfires P0302 Cyl 2 misfire P0305 Cyl 5 misfire But here is the wierd part. Drove this car all of last week. 600 miles, no cell, runs great, saw in an email from trifecta that I have unmetered air entering the manifold, think great , maybe this is my issue of the evap system not getting ready. notice that two of the four bolts are loose. so I retorque them, I even use gasket maker arount the washers, spacers and bolts becuase when I sparoyed starter fluid I can see it getting sucked in, not quickly but it does, I waited 2 days to make sure it dried. The car sat for a week since the last time I drove it. I figured let me drive it through a cycle in hopes of getting my evap system on line. I go to start it tonight, very rought ,misfires, sound like it wants to die, I can actually hear some clanking at the Throttle body, like as if the moving plate inside is banging. The whine is super loud. Is it possible for the TB to have gone bad.? Now I will say this I have had a slight whine at idle for months, wehn I hit the gas it goes away, at first I thought it was my catch can, becuase if I pinched the hose from the out line of the catch can , the sound would go away, but I disconneted my catch can, rehooked up the orginal pvc line and that sound is still there and sure enough if I pinch it the sound goes away. So I have no idea what the hell that is but the car has always run great So I am thinking bad pvc valve?, bad TB? Could I have done something wrong with retorqueing the bolts went to 18lbs, can't see that the gasket maker would have done any harm
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09-23-2012, 08:55 AM | #26 |
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You have a leak SOMEWHERE. What came up was pending CEL. Which mean soon or later you would have gotten the actual CEL on your dash. Go purchase a can of maf or brake spray cleaner and spray it all around where you think might be a leak while your car is idling. When you hear your car change idle you found your leak. I would personally take everything back off and go through the install all over again. Make sure you check all of your connections, look for overtighten bolts, redo the gasket makers and make sure it's cured properly, try oem gaskets instead of gasket Maker.
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09-23-2012, 09:04 AM | #27 | |
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Quote:
I think yours is from the spacer.
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09-23-2012, 10:06 AM | #28 |
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I have a feeling you both are right, car was runnuing awesome beforeehand. think I overtightented the phelum spacer bolts too much and now getting massaive leaks,I was concerned when I saw that two of them were loose, jay you mentuioned it before, use the oem gasket instead of the gasket maker, going to the dealer in the am and buy two new gaskets and redoing the install on friday. IM bolts 18lbs a foot and smaller bolts are 8-9 lbs right??
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