05-02-2016, 03:33 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2012 45th Camaro, 2SS/M6 Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: At my computer
Posts: 1,315
|
help! replacing front speakers broke trunk button
hey guys i couldn't get the trunk button undone so just left it attached while i worked on speaker install. at some point the door fell down and the force unplugged the trunk button from the door. i plugged it back in and it does not work, also the button itself rests deeper than it normally should, almost like there was a third component of the button that went between the button itself and the wiring harness. i'm not really sure, i looked around but don't see anything missing. i tried to google this but came up with nothing. nothing seems to be physically broken, like i said i can plug the thing right back in, but there is an apparent gap between the harness and the button itself so i don't really know what to do. if i know how the button worked i could probably fabricate a spacer, but even if i press on the resistor on the end of the plug i can't get the trunk to actually open.
please help asap, can't put my door back on until i resolve this! |
05-02-2016, 03:43 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: H-Town
Posts: 1,037
|
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-pa...trim-door-scat
Looks like you could just put the whole bit back together and just order a new switch/bezel for ~15 (maybe 20 after ship?) and reinstall when you get it in...I know not ideal, but may be the best solution if you've boogered it up edit** see parts 13 and 14 on the link above. |
05-02-2016, 04:15 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,054
|
There are two very small wedge shaped triangles on the side of the button about half way down the housing that push/bend in and out when pushed with a tiny flat blade screwdriver. Did you try pulling up those little ears so they stick out a little? - then push the switch back in place. Or did you already try that? Did they break off when the switch accidentally got forced out?
Looks to me like the button is designed so you can first put the door panel on and have the wire hang out from the switch hole, then plug the wire in to back of switch from the outside of the panel and then push the switch in to place from the front of the door panel. You maybe could try that out as a test run (before permanently putting the door panel on) - if it works you could put the panel back on permanently and then later, if you need a new switch due to damage, could pop it in when you get the new switch without having to take anything apart. In any case, that plastic switch housing and tabs are about the thinnest plastic I've seen for a switch - can imagine how that could be damaged easily - very fragile and not DIY friendly at all. Ron
__________________
2014 2SS/RS, Z28 CAI and High Wing Spoiler, ZL1 5.1:1 Ratio Short-Throw Shifter, ZL1 Pedals, ZL1 splash guards, NPP Dual-mode quad tip exhaust, Z28 strut tower brace, Camaro LED Cup-holders with footwell Lighting option, Leather visors, and Leather E-brake boot. Chevy dealer sponsored 67 retro SS nose stripe package.
Last edited by ron123; 05-02-2016 at 06:58 PM. |
05-02-2016, 04:40 PM | #4 |
Drives: C6 Corvette Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,264
|
doesn't your keyfob have a trunk button??
order a new door switch for the trunk and use your key fob for now. happened to me. had to do the same
__________________
2008 C6 m6. Carbon creations front/rear carbon fiber wodebody fenders. Carbon fiber hood carbon fiber roof hoop carbon fiber zr1 extreme spoiler. NW 102mm tb. Ported intake manifold. Cometic .040 head gaskets. LG motorsports G6x3 cam. DSX flex fuel sensor. AEM methanol kit. Z06 brakes. Ebiach sway bars. ZR1 rep wheels and Nitto Invo tires. Monster stage 3 twin disc clutch. MGW short shifter. Corbeau race seats. Gforce race harnesses. SLP loudmouth 2 mufflers. Carbon fiber exhaust tips. RPM stage 4 transmission and Stage 3 rear diff. 3.73 gears. Vararam cai. Kooks 1 7/8 headers and x-pipe.
|
05-05-2016, 10:44 AM | #5 |
High-tech Redneck
Drives: '10 CGM SS, '02 2500HD, '09 300SRT8 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 757
|
^^^ same here. Wasn't a speaker install, but was a stupid mistake.
__________________
"My friends call me Chris. Are you my friend?"
2010 CGM L99 2SS/RS - GPI SS3 VVT, BTR DoD Delete, Circle D 4c, BTR springs, Katech C5R Timing Chain, MRR-228 315/275, CAI, Elite catch-can, TSP 1 7/8" Headers + offroad pipes, Magnaflow 3", Pfadt springs, BMR LCAs, toelinks, trailing arms, cradle bushings, & sway bars w/ endlinks, Vitesse paddles, heritage grille, and an eBay splitter. Power upgrades by Race Proven Perf.; Tuning by ShorTuning. |
05-06-2016, 07:45 PM | #6 |
I run 2 catch cans...
|
There is a rubber plunger button thingy that goes between the switch and the connector on the back of the door panel. It floats in there, and it is easy to lose it when you disconnect the harness. I think that this is probably missing on your car. Try looking on the ground around where you were installing your speakers. You might find it. The switch won't work with this piece missing.
__________________
Overkill tuned • Air Scoop • CAI • VMAX PTB • JacFab Laminator FX + Extendolator • SOLO Hi-Flo Cats + Cat-Back Exhaust
View my top 3 LFX performance mods and more: . |
|
|
Thread Tools | |
|
|