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Old 07-03-2013, 03:32 PM   #29
2011 RJT
 
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does anyone know the temp of the air from the AC at idle?
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Old 07-03-2013, 03:57 PM   #30
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for a/c to work efficiently, a fresh supply of air needs to go through the condensing coil, a/c on in traffic probably isn't going to work very well.

the temp of the air coming out the vent should be 39*..this is going down the road.

think of refrigeration this way, it doesn't make anything cold, it removes heat..the condensing coil (in the grill) is a heat exchanger, if its really hot out side or no air can take away the heat, your a/c will suck.

sounds like the high side switch on some on these cars may be bad...but 134 isn't as forgiving as the old r-12..
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:01 PM   #31
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ok thanks. The 39 should be after the car is warmed up and moving for say a mile? Want to go and test and see whats up. Even moving it really doesn't feel cold.







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Originally Posted by wally mayfield View Post
for a/c to work efficiently, a fresh supply of air needs to go through the condensing coil, a/c on in traffic probably isn't going to work very well.

the temp of the air coming out the vent should be 39*..this is going down the road.

think of refrigeration this way, it doesn't make anything cold, it removes heat..the condensing coil (in the grill) is a heat exchanger, if its really hot out side or no air can take away the heat, your a/c will suck.

sounds like the high side switch on some on these cars may be bad...but 134 isn't as forgiving as the old r-12..
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:42 PM   #32
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ok. Just went on a 1/2 hour ride. Not scientific,but I used the wifes cooking them. to measure the AC. I go 66-69 just around town,like roughly 30 mph average. On the highway,it went down to 58-60 at about 65mph.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:07 PM   #33
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I'm thinking your compressor is not running...

find a refrigeration person and have them put some gauges on the system.

you can go to an auto parts store and buy a can of 134a with a guage built into the can, i don't like these things cause you're dealing with high pressure, but it can tell you if you're low on freon...

jump the high side switch and see if the compressor comes on..
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Old 08-02-2013, 02:04 PM   #34
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i've been having a similar issue on my girlfriend's 2010 SS. It was fine at first, then all of the sudden would blow hot air. had it in my garage with the hood open, started the car and turned the a/c on. At first the compressor was running then all of the sudden it stopped and started blowing cold air. During our heat wave a couple weeks ago, it just wouldn't blow cold AT ALL. Now that the ambient air temps went down, the a/c is working again. Did anyone experience this at all?

Oh, we also took it to the dealer we purchased the car from (great people in the shop) and of course, the air worked flawlessly once it was in their hands. They did however update the BCM. The a/c worked for about a week straight after this, now we're experiencing the problem again.
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Old 08-02-2013, 03:55 PM   #35
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I'm in Mississippi because I own part of a company here and my original dealer whom I go to is in Florida. The Dealers have told me here in MS time after time that my condenser needed to be replaced because there was damage to it, but never removed the front fascia to inspect it. They said a rock went through it. 2 dealers here told me that. I took it to me dealer in FL and they said they couldn't find a hole anywhere. They used the gas sniffer to try and locate a leak but they were unable to. My Dealer really takes care of me in FL. They filled the the system back up with refrigerant and it worked fine for a few months until I decided to take a trip to Texas a few months ago. I noticed that A/C started to blow warm. When I stopped for fuel I noticed that the compressor had a squeak to it. When I stopped in Texas the clutch wasn't engaging at all. I bought refrigerant and attempted to refill it, but adding only maybe less than an 1/8 of a can I saw that the pressures were spot on. The compressor did kick back on but wouldn't pump any refrigerant. I have scheduled another appt with them for next week for them to take a look at it again. They told me that they'd take care of whatever issue I was having so (fingers crossed) hopefully it isn't the condenser. If it is, I'll be replacing that myself. Screw Dealers and over rated and over priced repairs.

I keep getting told by Dealers' service managers and even some service techs that there is a flaw in the condenser design, rather the design of the Camaro front end. It seems that where the condenser is and how the grill is designed, it allows for road debris (most notably rocks) to damage the condenser very easily. I have fought for months to bring this issue up to GM. The Camaro is not the only newer GM vehicle to experience easily damaged condensers. (FYI: DO NOT PAY $700-$900 to have the condenser replaced. MAKE WHATEVER DEALER WHO IS WORKING ON IT SHOW YOU THE DAMAGE. The condenser for the '10-'11 Camaro is a $50 part. I bought a brand new OEM replacement condenser for $48 plus shipping. Most techs are lazy and don't want to pull the front bumper to inspect the condenser properly even though it takes only 20 min to remove it.) The Equinox or Cruze I believe has the same condenser issues. However, I have also been told that there are issues with the compressors on the LS3 and up motors failing within months of new car sales. Case in point was my '05 vette. Within a few months of driving it home off the showroom floor, the compressor went out. following that was the regulator. There are a whole slew of issues with A/Cs in the Vettes and Camaros. At least it seems so from experience. I'll be happy to post a link for the condenser itself for you DIY-ers who wants to buy replace their own condensers for a fraction of the cost. That's what I'll be doing if my dealer tells me that I need a new condenser and won't cover it under warranty.

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Old 08-04-2013, 12:08 AM   #36
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maybe its not an a/c issue,i mean that should be pretty simple to figure out with some gauges hooked up and see what pressures are when the problem occurs,if the system is low on charge you have a leak somewhere. If the pressure appear normal perhaps you have an electrical issue with blend door motors under the dash going to heat. This really shouldn't be that hard. If the dealer cant help there are plenty of great hvac guys at other shops that can probably help.
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