How much to rebuild? - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

DSX_Camaro · 04-08-2014, 12:47 PM

Well... You could have the motor torn down and rebuilt. Bore it .020 or .030 over and get new pistons, use the LF3 rods, have the heads cleaned (or ported), etc...

ben3350 · 04-08-2014, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSX_Camaro

Well... You could have the motor torn down and rebuilt. Bore it .020 or .030 over and get new pistons, use the LF3 rods, have the heads cleaned (or ported), etc...

I'm gonna be honest I have no idea what you are talking about lol.

I don't know much about car engine parts, only from what I've learned from all the problems I've had at the dealer.

What exactly are you suggesting I do?

DSX_Camaro · 04-08-2014, 01:48 PM

Okay. The LF3 has stronger (and lighter?) connecting rods for the pistons. Boring an engine .020 or .030 over means 20 or 30 thousandths of an inch (very small) so that the cylinders are perfect circles again - needs new pistons but improves idle quality and such. Porting the heads... well, basically it makes the air flow into the engine better.

I could explain more but if it is above you (all due respect) then don't worry about it lol.

An LFX conversion would be interesting though... Not sure where to start.

GretchenGotGrowl · 04-08-2014, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben3350

I've had a cylinder misfire issue since about 100k. It comes and goes, but sometimes when I would step on the throttle, I would hear a popping sound and the check engine light would flash. After that, the engine would rattle and shake the whole car while driving. And in idle it would shake as well. After around 10 min, the problem would go away. Or turning the car off and on again would solve it as well. But the problem would come back whenever the issue was triggered.

Sometimes, the misfire issue would happen from simple driving. It would just happen out of the blue. Other times, it would only happen if I'm accelerating quickly. Don't know whether temperature affected timing or anything else like that.

I am still dealing with the problem. I've taken it to 3 different places who have not been able to solve the problem. Problem is, in order for them to fix it, they need to see the problem. It's been my luck of course that it has been difficult to recreate the problem when the dealer was present. Sometimes the car will be fine for days, other times I will get the misfire 20 times a day if driven a lot.

Another problem with this is that they may think they have fixed it, and it may appear fixed, but may come back a few days later. This has happened many times, and I don't have the time to have the car in the dealer for days upon days all the time since they haven't had any progress.

I've spent thousands already on spark plugs, coils, throttle bodies, injection cleaning, etc to no avail. Luckily, those are things that need to be replaced eventually so they weren't completely wasted money. But it's still a problem that I have been dealing with. It's very frustrating to say the least.

I guess there hasn't been any more news on the LFX conversion, has there?

Can you list all the Mods you have for your car?

DSX_Camaro · 04-08-2014, 02:55 PM

Oh, do you use 87 octane gas, also?

ben3350 · 04-08-2014, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GretchenGotGrowl

Can you list all the Mods you have for your car?

Performance wise, all I have right now is an AirRaid cold air intake and the ARK N-II catback exhaust. Everything else is either cosmetic or audio.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSX_Camaro

Oh, do you use 87 octane gas, also?

I do use 87 octane gas, which I assume is the correct octane for the LLT v6 right?

And yes most of that was over my head, no offense taken at all haha

DSX_Camaro · 04-08-2014, 03:07 PM

Okay, just making sure... I didn't want to come off the wrong way lol.

Actually it can run 87 octane gas because of the direct injection and variable valve timing... If you ran 89 or 93 octane it might help a bit. I only run 93, for example.

ben3350 · 04-09-2014, 10:28 AM

Well, just got slapped with a $4k repair for a damaged cylinder head that needs to be replaced.

Many of you were saying I could get a slightly used LLT engine for around 3 grand. Should I be just dropping in a new motor instead of paying the crazy amount for a cylinder replacement? Even with labor it seems like it would be around the same place to get a new engine over just that one repair.

RubyCamaro · 04-09-2014, 01:37 PM

Ben3350 It is fine to run 87 octane; won't hurt anything. BUt hte car will pull timing so performance suffers. To change that you only need to run the tank nearly empty & fill up with 93 & after running 93 awhile hte timing will reset & better performance is back.

I'm starting to think you might be better off just getting a used engine at this point. Worth looking into anyway.

04-08-2014, 12:47 PM	#29
DSX_Camaro Drives: 2013 SW 2LT/RS LFX/AY6 Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,741	Well... You could have the motor torn down and rebuilt. Bore it .020 or .030 over and get new pistons, use the LF3 rods, have the heads cleaned (or ported), etc... __________________ K&N CAI, 1LE Strut Tower Brace, Elite Engineering Catch Can and Clean Side Separator, Apex Scoop w/ Washer Relocation Kit, CTS Front Calipers and Rotors, JacFab Ported Intake Manifold, JacFab Intake Manifold Spacer, 80mm Overkill Throttle Body, SS Brake Lines, Ideal Garage Master Cylinder, Monster Twin Disc Clutch, NPP Retrofit w/ Magnaflow Resonated X, ARH Catless Downpipes, JRE Built 3.45 Diff, 1LE Axles, 1LE Hubs, Overkill Tuned, BMR Anti Wheel-hop Kit Stage I, ACS TL1 Hood Insert, ZL1 Spoiler

04-08-2014, 01:48 PM	#31
DSX_Camaro Drives: 2013 SW 2LT/RS LFX/AY6 Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,741	Okay. The LF3 has stronger (and lighter?) connecting rods for the pistons. Boring an engine .020 or .030 over means 20 or 30 thousandths of an inch (very small) so that the cylinders are perfect circles again - needs new pistons but improves idle quality and such. Porting the heads... well, basically it makes the air flow into the engine better. I could explain more but if it is above you (all due respect) then don't worry about it lol. An LFX conversion would be interesting though... Not sure where to start. __________________ K&N CAI, 1LE Strut Tower Brace, Elite Engineering Catch Can and Clean Side Separator, Apex Scoop w/ Washer Relocation Kit, CTS Front Calipers and Rotors, JacFab Ported Intake Manifold, JacFab Intake Manifold Spacer, 80mm Overkill Throttle Body, SS Brake Lines, Ideal Garage Master Cylinder, Monster Twin Disc Clutch, NPP Retrofit w/ Magnaflow Resonated X, ARH Catless Downpipes, JRE Built 3.45 Diff, 1LE Axles, 1LE Hubs, Overkill Tuned, BMR Anti Wheel-hop Kit Stage I, ACS TL1 Hood Insert, ZL1 Spoiler

04-08-2014, 02:55 PM	#33
DSX_Camaro Drives: 2013 SW 2LT/RS LFX/AY6 Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,741	Oh, do you use 87 octane gas, also? __________________ K&N CAI, 1LE Strut Tower Brace, Elite Engineering Catch Can and Clean Side Separator, Apex Scoop w/ Washer Relocation Kit, CTS Front Calipers and Rotors, JacFab Ported Intake Manifold, JacFab Intake Manifold Spacer, 80mm Overkill Throttle Body, SS Brake Lines, Ideal Garage Master Cylinder, Monster Twin Disc Clutch, NPP Retrofit w/ Magnaflow Resonated X, ARH Catless Downpipes, JRE Built 3.45 Diff, 1LE Axles, 1LE Hubs, Overkill Tuned, BMR Anti Wheel-hop Kit Stage I, ACS TL1 Hood Insert, ZL1 Spoiler

04-08-2014, 03:07 PM	#35
DSX_Camaro Drives: 2013 SW 2LT/RS LFX/AY6 Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,741	Okay, just making sure... I didn't want to come off the wrong way lol. Actually it can run 87 octane gas because of the direct injection and variable valve timing... If you ran 89 or 93 octane it might help a bit. I only run 93, for example. __________________ K&N CAI, 1LE Strut Tower Brace, Elite Engineering Catch Can and Clean Side Separator, Apex Scoop w/ Washer Relocation Kit, CTS Front Calipers and Rotors, JacFab Ported Intake Manifold, JacFab Intake Manifold Spacer, 80mm Overkill Throttle Body, SS Brake Lines, Ideal Garage Master Cylinder, Monster Twin Disc Clutch, NPP Retrofit w/ Magnaflow Resonated X, ARH Catless Downpipes, JRE Built 3.45 Diff, 1LE Axles, 1LE Hubs, Overkill Tuned, BMR Anti Wheel-hop Kit Stage I, ACS TL1 Hood Insert, ZL1 Spoiler

04-09-2014, 10:28 AM	#36
ben3350 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2LT ABM Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Atlanta Posts: 485 View My Garage	Well, just got slapped with a $4k repair for a damaged cylinder head that needs to be replaced. Many of you were saying I could get a slightly used LLT engine for around 3 grand. Should I be just dropping in a new motor instead of paying the crazy amount for a cylinder replacement? Even with labor it seems like it would be around the same place to get a new engine over just that one repair. __________________ Ark N-II catback exhaust, ZL1 bumper, JL C5 comps, JL 10w7, JL 500/1v2, JL 300/4v2

04-09-2014, 01:37 PM	#37
RubyCamaro Jan Drives: 2010 Camaro 1LT Red Jewel tintcoat Join Date: May 2010 Location: Springfield, TN Posts: 16,225 View My Garage	Ben3350 It is fine to run 87 octane; won't hurt anything. BUt hte car will pull timing so performance suffers. To change that you only need to run the tank nearly empty & fill up with 93 & after running 93 awhile hte timing will reset & better performance is back. I'm starting to think you might be better off just getting a used engine at this point. Worth looking into anyway. __________________