15w-50 Oil pro's and cons?

[Outlaw77]

I have been running Amsoil 10w-30Z-Rod now for about a year and I have no complaints. I have been reading that some FI and NA guys run 15w-50 oil. I am due for an oil change and I am contemplating going with the M1 15w-50 or maybe with the Amsoil 20w-50.

I don't track the car and only drive it when the temps are warmer in the spring, summer and fall. I usually let it warm up before taking off.

What oil are you guys running and why? Is the 15w-50 and good option for me or should I just stick with what I'm running now?

[hillshooter]

I run 10W40 royal purple HPS. 40 weight is what AGP recomends on their turbo cars.

[dreksnot]

Might be a little heavy for you with your stock rings, your location, and how you drive. I'd stick with 10w-40 synthetic and be done with it.

[Glushenij]

Actually AGP recommend 20w-50(it's what I run during warm weather)and during winter I switch to 10w-40

[jrhagen]

When ADM did my swap, he recommended, and always uses in his FI builds, M1 15w-50. I have been using it for over 4 years now and no issues. I change the oil every 1000 miles, they are hard miles, and my friend puts it in his BBC truck.

[EDFHOBBIES]

I been using 15w 50 mobile 1 mainly cause its cheap from Wally world and its the easiest to find very hard to find a good 20 50 in stock.. Not sure what a good recommended interval is though.. the 1st couple were done early less than 100 on 1st then 500 miles.. then moved to 1500 and now about 2000. I notice the temp rides at 210 or 220 when driving very hard it may hit 250 for a few mins then back to 220 or lower. it doesn't matter if its 30 out or 110 the oil temps seems to same operating temp..

I doubt 250 will hurt moble 1?

On a side note if you have a gransport 2017 vette and your going to the track GM changes the to the 20 50 oil for free at least they did for my friend 2x

[NipTuckTaxi]

I'm on zrod 10w 30. Twin turbo. ERL 416.

[EDFHOBBIES]

guys running 30w and lower.. makes since to me..


AGP turbos..

If you have a standard bearing turbocharger: The loads produced on your standard bearing turbocharger’s rotating assembly require oils with high levels of ZDDP to adequately create a film between like metals. Standard bearing turbine shafts spin between bushings (bearings) and must have a constant film of oil in order for the components to survive. This is where choosing the right oil can make the difference. We have found that Brad Penn Grade 1 is one of the best and most cost effective oil out there. Other oils that we’ve found that contain the proper levels of ZDDP are Valvoline VR1 and VR1 Synthetic NSL, and Amsoil SAE Synthetic Premium Protection. We have also used Rotellla T6 synthetic oil with much success over the years.

Additionally, we advise using thicker viscosity in these brands of oil as the heat generated by high shaft speeds will break down thin 0W, 5W, and 10W oils and cause the oil to coke inside the turbo where oil temperatures can exceed 200 degrees F. Your standard bearing turbo will enjoy that you make the right choice. These are merely suggestions by us, because we have seen failures due to improper oil over the years. These types of oils may not contain the many of the detergents that most off the shelf oils have, thus you will need to change your oil more regularly than you’re used to. If you feel that the oils you run are sufficient, we would recommend having an oil analysis completed by Blackstone Labs.

If you have a ball bearing turbocharger: We still recommend running a high ZDDP oil as all lubricating components in your engine will always benefit with proper ZDDP levels. However, ball bearing turbocharger assemblies are quite different and do not require as much volume of oil when compared to a standard bearing turbo. What does this mean to you? You need not be as strict on your oil choice when running a ball bearing turbo. That being said, we will still recommend all of the same oil above.

When installing a replacement turbocharger, be certain there is no foreign material in the air cleaner and the ducting to the compressor inlet or in the exhaust manifold. Even small or soft objects will cause extensive damage to the turbocharger wheels. Take care to avoid getting dirt or debris into the turbocharger openings. New and replacement turbochargers may have bolts missing or deliberately left loose to facilitate installation.

[dreksnot]

I'm a rebel. Winter-time, I run 5w-40 M1 Turbo Diesel. I've known what AGP says about running thinner oils in my journal bearing turbos (don't or it'll coke). I like daily driving the car, and since it's winter, can't really get into it much on the throttle. That said, Summer-time I run 20w-50 and run the hell out of the car (and turbos). Been 3-1/2 years doing that so I guess it has been okay for me. Earlier on, I did send in a sample of VR1 20w-50 to Blackstone for analysis after 5,500 miles, drag racing, road coursing and daily stuff. They said oil looked exceptional even though I ran it past the 3,700 mile recommended changed for my motor type. So, take that for what it's worth, or not worth... I'd still recommend doing what AGP says, or your engine builder - they know best. I'm just a driver.

[ADM PERFORMANCE]

https://mobiloil.com/en/search?q=15W-50

[10aSSee D]

I've been running M1 15w-50 ever since Andy at ADM performance built my engine.

[Outlaw77]

After reading the responses and other online information I'm going to try switching to 15 50 or 15 40. I don't have turbos but I do have a cam and a supercharger so I'm always interested in making sure I have the right oil.

[Outlaw77]

Update I just put in mobile 15w 50 but I'm noticing a higher oil pressure. It idles right at 36psi but shoots up to the mid to high 60's psi when I get on and rev it out to about 5k. Anything to worry about?

[SDTWDirect]

I also personally use M1 15W-50 in mine and others' builds (4-600whp in a different FI platform). The ZDDP is adequate, and oil analysis results have always been superb. Just my two cents!

-AL of SDTW Direct