Roto-fab CAI...closer look

[Burnt_RS]

Originally Posted by odog

See this thread:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100584

Thanks! So what are people ordering? I would like the ease of use of a dry filter, but does it let any dirt/dust pass through that the oiled filter would catch? Basically, is there any reason (other than the extra $) to not get a dry filter?

edit:thanks did some more digging and found most of the info i was looking for. i must have spelled something wrong when i did a search earlier haha.

ONE last thing. How do you clean the R-F dry filter? Is there a cleaning sol'n or do i just hit it from the inside with some air (will that hurt this filter)?

[odog]

I believe Mike (Roto-Fab) could answer that one more easily than we could. I too have used K&N in the past on my trucks and never really looked at a dry filter alternative. I always bought two filters so when one was being cleaned, the other was ready to go. AfE's Pro Dry S is supposed to be one of the best dry ones out there but don't have any experience with their product. Here is their FAQ about cleaning (Look at #2):

http://afepower.com/faq.php

I would think most dry filters have a similar cleaning process depending on the materials used.

Hope this helps.

[CamaroDreams07]

Originally Posted by efpardo

So the other day when I went home for lunch and found that my order was delivered!

I went right to work on the installation. I don't have all my tools but with a little help from my friends, I got it all installed in under an hour.

I took some video and pictures. The video was from my phone so may not be very good.
Packaging:

The heat shield creates a large breathing space for the big mouth air filter.
Looking straight down from the top, you can see down to the concrete through gaps in the fender and behind the washer bottle.

I've got video on Facebook but can't figure out how to post it. If anyone can help, thanks.

Comments: Note: I'm not a mechanic but have worked on a few cars in my day.
The installation was just short of a breeze. The heat of the day had me frustrated. So the light Breeze did help.

One of holes on the heat shield was a little tight, but finally went in. The opening for the MAF seemed a bit rough and I was actually afraid of pushing too hard, and damaging the O-ring but that worked out too.
The PCV tube seemed about 1/4" short for my liking but no big deal. I got some extra stickers which was nice, but I got SS stickers vs the RS stickers. Everything else went in perfectly.

Once installed, I started the engine to make sure there were no rattles. Right off the bat, I noticed the difference in sound--Very Impressive. On my way back to the office I noticed the sound from the cabin was...Beefyer? Hard to describe, but definitely better. As for performance, It's hard to say officially, but the response seems less labored and the engine seems to be more responsive.

I was at the track in Lapeer MI last November and again yesterday.
I don't recall the air temp from November but yesterday it was around 80-85and humid.
My best times for both dates:
---- Date --- 60 ft -- 594 ft - 1/8 ET - 1/8 MPH - 1/4 ET - 1/4 MPH
11/07/2009 - 2.175 - 9.069 -- 9.644 - - 78.13 - - 14.918 -- 82.36 - Cooler Pre-Roto-Fab
08/14/2010 - 2.205 - 9.073 -- 9.678 - - 74.31 - - 14.843 -- 94.09 - Hot and Muggy Post-Roto-Fab

My overall experience--Excellent
From my initial correspondence and information gathering to ordering, delivery, instructions, installation and performance. I'm very Satisfied.

Thanks Mike and the Roto-Fab team.

Hey Erick,

Didn't know you were thinking about this one. Decided you weren't sold on your homemade intake mod? Looks good.

[d69chris]

Originally Posted by franknbeans

Thanks so much for the top rubber seal . . . I got it today.

(this was taking before you sent me the seal. )

Like I said, good people!

[Roto-fab 1]

Originally Posted by Burnt_RS

Thanks! So what are people ordering? I would like the ease of use of a dry filter, but does it let any dirt/dust pass through that the oiled filter would catch? Basically, is there any reason (other than the extra $) to not get a dry filter?

edit:thanks did some more digging and found most of the info i was looking for. i must have spelled something wrong when i did a search earlier haha.

ONE last thing. How do you clean the R-F dry filter? Is there a cleaning sol'n or do i just hit it from the inside with some air (will that hurt this filter)?

You can lightly knock the filter against something to remove dirt. Alternatively, you can shop vac the exterior. When it's time to wash, you can simply use a soap and water combination, rinse and allow to dry thoroughly before using. It isn't necessary to have a service kit for the dry filter.
Here are the primary reasons we have seen customers choose the dry version-

1) No chance of contaminating the MAF sensor with oil (not a problem with the oil version unless the filter is oiled excessively during servicing)

2) The dry filter can be quickly cleaned over 90% without actually washing the filter, so it's a quick and easy "tune-up" for the filter.

3) Some prefer the white appearance of the dry over the traditional maroon color of the oil filter.

With S/C as well as many N/A V8 applications, the oil filter will provide slightly more flow/power than the dry filter. However, we use a very large filter with our system, so the differences in performance with this application are minimal to none.

[Primus]

I guess the question is, was the dyno done with the wet or dry filter?

[GearHeadPeter]

Here are the pics of my installed Roto-Fab CAI in my Rally Yellow 2LT/RS with a wet filter. The directions were very good and easy to follow, and it took me about 45 minutes to take out the old air box and install the new one.

[Goalie2827]

so if the dry one is off-white and the oiled is marron, then what type is the green one and is it an option?

[Toasty]

Originally Posted by Roto-fab 1

We've had several questions about where our intake picks up air. This is the duct located behind the grill on the driver's side. You can feel it through th grill once you know where to look. The air goes in the top of the duct and follows the duct right around the radiator and directly into our air box. This is the same air duct that supplies sufficient cool air to a S/C V8 Camaro so you know it's seeing plenty of air for the V6 engine! Also, air coming from 2' off the pavement is cooler than air scooped right off of the hot pavement!

So is that the front half of the stock intake scoop? (obviously the other half that is on the stock airbox is gone)

[Roto-fab 1]

Originally Posted by Toasty

So is that the front half of the stock intake scoop? (obviously the other half that is on the stock airbox is gone)

Actually the entire assembly of the duct pictured remains intact. The inlet on the stock air box doesn't couple to this duct, In fact, there is a gap between the two. This is why our intake temps are about 8 degrees lower than the stock intake while stationary or moving at low speeds. Our air box more effectively isolates from radiator air as compared to the inlet of the stock air box.
With our configuration the duct you see pictured feeds entirely into our air box area. To visualize this picture a box with an air hose hooked directly to it. All of the air would go directly in the box. The stock air box would be like a hose blowing air into an opening in a box except with a gap between the air hose and the hole in the box. Not only will it get less direct outside air, it will also draw air from the path of least resistance which is going to be some radiator air. This is especially true at low speeds.

[Toasty]

Originally Posted by Roto-fab 1

Actually the entire assembly of the duct pictured remains intact. The inlet on the stock air box doesn't couple to this duct, In fact, there is a gap between the two. This is why our intake temps are about 8 degrees lower than the stock intake while stationary or moving at low speeds. Our air box more effectively isolates from radiator air as compared to the inlet of the stock air box.
With our configuration the duct you see pictured feeds entirely into our air box area. To visualize this picture a box with an air hose hooked directly to it. All of the air would go directly in the box. The stock air box would be like a hose blowing air into an opening in a box except with a gap between the air hose and the hole in the box. Not only will it get less direct outside air, it will also draw air from the path of least resistance which is going to be some radiator air. This is especially true at low speeds.

Any chance you could post a pic of the other side of the duct, where it enters the engine bay/your box?

[Roto-fab 1]

Originally Posted by Primus

I guess the question is, was the dyno done with the wet or dry filter?

Dyno testing was done with the oil filter. However, the dry filter should produce very similar results for this application. We use a very large filter so surface area helps make up for the small difference in flow. If this was a supercharged application, I would recommend the oil filter for max. power.

[Roto-fab 1]

Originally Posted by Toasty

Any chance you could post a pic of the other side of the duct, where it enters the engine bay/your box?

The paint stick is in contact with the edge of the plastic duct in the picture below. If you remove your stock air box you can feel the duct with your hand in this area.

[EROS_2LT]

I installed my roto-fab on august 12th a few days after I received it. I've now put over 600 miles on the car without any CEL.
It gave my MRT 2.0 axle back exhaust an deeper sound and you can definitely feels more powerful. Install was fast, under one hour even though I took my time.
The fit and finish is excellent! The intake is well built and the red powder coating matches my victory red 2lt perfectly.
As for mileage, I'm still sitting at an average of 25.3mpg combined. We'll see how this shakes out over the long haul.