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Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing Discussions on mechanical maintenance and servicing of your Camaro

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Old 05-21-2014, 08:02 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Apex Chase View Post
You can take it to the dealership service department and pay them a couple hundred dollars for an upper induction cleaning.
Would sea foam and oil change do the trick? Or is the upper induction cleaning from the dealer still the best option? I just hate taking my car to the dealership, never trust them to do the work, or do it correctly.
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:18 AM   #52
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Would sea foam and oil change do the trick? Or is the upper induction cleaning from the dealer still the best option? I just hate taking my car to the dealership, never trust them to do the work, or do it correctly.
My dealership uses BG chemicals for the upper induction cleaning. BG is supposedly "better" than SeaFoam.

I paid $185 for my upper induction cleaning at the dealer. It was well worth the cost.

I made sure the master tech did it though. Don't let the oil chanGe crew do this!!!

I ended up manually cleaning my valves and intake tract after the upper induction cleaning and catch can install because the LFX has a direct injection engine (meaning the detergents in the fuel never get a chance to clean the valves). With the chemical and manual cleaning my intake is clean and the catch can keeps it that way.
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:38 AM   #53
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My dealership uses BG chemicals for the upper induction cleaning. BG is supposedly "better" than SeaFoam.

I paid $185 for my upper induction cleaning at the dealer. It was well worth the cost.

I made sure the master tech did it though. Don't let the oil chanGe crew do this!!!

I ended up manually cleaning my valves and intake tract after the upper induction cleaning and catch can install because the LFX has a direct injection engine (meaning the detergents in the fuel never get a chance to clean the valves). With the chemical and manual cleaning my intake is clean and the catch can keeps it that way.
This.
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:03 AM   #54
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Chase:

I have the Vararam Ram Air installed on my 2011 2SS. I now have the 'open' area where the stock intake was. It appears this unit installs on the radiator bolt -- is there an alternate place this will fit? I'd rather not 'add' this where the radiator bolt ;o)

BTW, the VMax is awesome!

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Old 06-22-2014, 03:41 PM   #55
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Chase:

I have the Vararam Ram Air installed on my 2011 2SS. I now have the 'open' area where the stock intake was. It appears this unit installs on the radiator bolt -- is there an alternate place this will fit? I'd rather not 'add' this where the radiator bolt ;o)

BTW, the VMax is awesome!

-Don
No, we do not have other bracket options. We do include a replacement bolt that is stronger, slightly longer, and has more threads than the stock one. We have never had an issue with it.
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Old 06-22-2014, 05:01 PM   #56
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Thanks for the reply -- I'll take a look and see what I can use. I really like the looks of yours for sure...

-Don

Last edited by hammdo; 06-22-2014 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 07-22-2014, 12:07 PM   #57
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Thanks for the reply -- I'll take a look and see what I can use. I really like the looks of yours for sure...

-Don
Thanks.
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Old 07-24-2014, 05:50 PM   #58
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Checked can this morning. It's been ~800 miles since install (1350 total miles on car). There was about 1/8 an ounce of oil in the can! This baby gets it done!
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:32 AM   #59
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Checked can this morning. It's been ~800 miles since install (1350 total miles on car). There was about 1/8 an ounce of oil in the can! This baby gets it done!
Right where it needs to be. In the can and not the intake manifold.
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Old 09-05-2014, 04:43 PM   #60
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Sorry if I appear ignorant, but on the catch cans with the dual check valves and 3rd port, where does the 3rd port (breather) hook up to? I see in the pictures the line on the top of the intake manifold (LFX) that is the "dirty side" that needs ran through the can, just not sure of the breather.
I'm looking at Elite and the RX cans.
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:41 PM   #61
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Something else I've been thinking about...
Has anyone ever experienced a leaking rear main seal from excess crank case pressure due to a catch can? Seems to me there is no possible way that the air could flow through the catch can media as freely as before.
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:47 PM   #62
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Something else I've been thinking about...
Has anyone ever experienced a leaking rear main seal from excess crank case pressure due to a catch can? Seems to me there is no possible way that the air could flow through the catch can media as freely as before.
Good question.
Also, I have had mine on for about a hundred miles now (I do not drive my Camaro very often). Should I start seeing something in the catch can by now?
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Old 09-09-2014, 06:53 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TehWingman View Post
Sorry if I appear ignorant, but on the catch cans with the dual check valves and 3rd port, where does the 3rd port (breather) hook up to? I see in the pictures the line on the top of the intake manifold (LFX) that is the "dirty side" that needs ran through the can, just not sure of the breather.
I'm looking at Elite and the RX cans.
Dual valve cans are only needed for certain forced induction applications to ensure proper flow when the engine is on and off boost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TehWingman View Post
Something else I've been thinking about...
Has anyone ever experienced a leaking rear main seal from excess crank case pressure due to a catch can? Seems to me there is no possible way that the air could flow through the catch can media as freely as before.
When properly installed it should not be creating anywhere close to that kind of pressure.

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Originally Posted by pickwithaustin View Post
Good question.
Also, I have had mine on for about a hundred miles now (I do not drive my Camaro very often). Should I start seeing something in the catch can by now?
I usually recommend to our customers to wait until more like 300-500 miles. The filtration media is going to hold on to a certain amount of what it catches before it starts letting drop to the bottom.
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:14 PM   #64
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I usually recommend to our customers to wait until more like 300-500 miles. The filtration media is going to hold on to a certain amount of what it catches before it starts letting drop to the bottom.

That is what I figured, but I put so few miles on my Camaro that I'm eager to "see it work," so to speak.

I installed mine properly, but here's a hypothetical question. If someone installed it backward (I was careful not to, but can see that someone could), would it potentially create issue? I.e., the input where the output should be.
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:42 PM   #65
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That is what I figured, but I put so few miles on my Camaro that I'm eager to "see it work," so to speak.

I installed mine properly, but here's a hypothetical question. If someone installed it backward (I was careful not to, but can see that someone could), would it potentially create issue? I.e., the input where the output should be.
Not with our catch can but it could with some of the other cans out there.
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Old 09-13-2014, 09:00 AM   #66
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So I purchased a 2LT RS Camaro, White. ( been told over and over that if it is not black, v8, manual, it is not a camaro but whatever).

I was looking into means and methods to preserve the life of my Camaro, and other then oil changes, brands of oils, staying on top of routine maintenance, I see this stuff about an oil catch can.

I am completely skeptical. I remember my first car in 2003 and trying the old "Hydrogen MPG Booster" to get insane gas mileage by burning hydrogen and oxygen after electrolysis. I made one, put it on, tested with it, found it lowered my MPG by putting more strain on the battery and not increasing results as promised. There is still a big market for this and other scams. I think I ended up turning the whole thing into a small little hydrogen bomb, but I digress.

So after reading and looking at all this idiotic pictures of people posting what looks like used motor oil inside of the catch cans I decided to research and test.

First test - If oil is REALLY traveling down the PCV line and into the top of the motor, then after a paltry 1000 miles there should be plenty of oil in the line. So I took the line off, grabbed some paper towels, and this was my result:





Ok Ok, so a little oil is coming through, and I guess if I go to any V6 camaro that has more than 8 miles on it, pop the hood, take 3 seconds to take the hose off, I will find oil.

Kinda surprised I have not seen more pictures detailing the exact or whole process of how the oil travels through the PCV line. I understand the principles after doing to much research, but seeing the effects is different.

Next up, I needed to know how much oil. Well, this part is stupid since if I want to measure the amount of oil I guess I need a catch can.

Well, I did not drink at the bar for a day, went online, purchased an Elite 2 oil catch can.

And yea, no need to post more pictures but I will later, it fills with oil and looks just like what everyone else posted.

So I guess this really isn't a scam, the proof is in the bottom of the can...

Good work to everyone in finding, manufacturing, and promoting the catch can, I hope it adds 500,000 miles to your car.
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Old 09-13-2014, 09:42 AM   #67
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....So I guess this really isn't a scam, the proof is in the bottom of the can...

Good work to everyone in finding, manufacturing, and promoting the catch can, I hope it adds 500,000 miles to your car.
Nothing wrong with running your own tests. Additionally here is a TON of independent data out there on the topic and some higher end cars actually do come with a catch can/separator system.
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Old 09-13-2014, 12:19 PM   #68
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My not going to do any of this crap, then at 250,000 miles I'll pull the cover, and show regardless of what's in their, the engine will outlast the car .. .. the car will be a rust bucket beater by then ..
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Old 09-18-2014, 06:15 AM   #69
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My not going to do any of this crap, then at 250,000 miles I'll pull the cover, and show regardless of what's in their, the engine will outlast the car .. .. the car will be a rust bucket beater by then ..
That will be an interesting experiment with the DI V6. Many are already having to to top end rebuilds before 100,000 miles due to carbon build up in those engines.
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Old 09-18-2014, 06:42 AM   #70
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My first oil change at 1708 miles and this is what my home-made catch can had caught:



I'm convinced that you MUST have one installed if you value your engine.
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Old 09-18-2014, 11:44 AM   #71
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My first oil change at 1708 miles and this is what my home-made catch can had caught:



I'm convinced that you MUST have one installed if you value your engine.
Seeing is believing.
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Old 09-19-2014, 09:06 AM   #72
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Engine longevity is of less concern to me than daily performance. I purchase Shell 91 octane (or occasionally Chevron w/Techron), in part because of the superior cleaning additives. These cleaning agents, as I understand it, cannot get to the "dirty" side of the engine. In fact, GM has "upper induction cleaning" as part of its routine maintenance schedule, specifically to address carbon buildup.

I installed an APEX catch can in both my wife's 2013 2SS and my 2014 ZL1. The bottom of each can has oil every weekend (both are daily drivers). I have since backed off to checking every few weeks (just seemed to OCD to do it every weekend (lol)). In my opinion, it is better for me to dump that oil rather than allow it to collect somewhere else in our engines.

The cost, again in my opinion, is a minimal one time expense. What I hope to gain between top rated detergent gasolines and our catch cans is continued top performance from our cars on a daily basis.

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