Some help: New brake lines and bleeding... - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Michael_Js · 12-29-2009, 10:49 AM

Ok, I've done motorcycle SS brake lines and then bleeding with new fluids, but have never done a car. I have the Goodridge SS brake lines coming as well as the Stillen drilled/slotted rotors; also new Hawk ceramic pads. I want to do them all at the same time - then I'll paint the calipers Orange

Can someone give me a quick - "how to" - on bleeding the SS brakes? I do have a Mityvac (I think?) hand pump for brakes - it's what I use on my motorcycle.

Also, I see lots of people using DOT4 fluid, even though the container cover and manual indicate DOT3. I assume that's ok? The brake fluid container is the same as used for the clutch, correct?

Many thanks!

Michael J.

Moriartii · 12-29-2009, 11:06 AM

Pretty much the same drill on a car as on a bike, although the ABS part may be a bit different. With regard to the fluid I believe you can use pretty much any fluid EXCEPT the 5.1. Check this tho for specifics because I dont remember the exact type but one is silicon based and will just turn into snot if mixed with the other kind.
Also make sure you have some line wrenches handy and get some speed bleeders. I assume you know this but the line wrenches are made for fittings such as brake lines and such, keeps from rounding them out when loosening.
Also you may want to go to Home Depot or Lowes and get some clear tubing to come off the bleeders. Put the tubing into a container (jar or something that the brake fluid wont eat) and crack the bleeder while a partner depresses the brake pedal. This will help force the fluid through and then you can fine tune with the mighty vac.
Cheers
K

Chris_B · 12-30-2009, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moriartii

Pretty much the same drill on a car as on a bike, although the ABS part may be a bit different. With regard to the fluid I believe you can use pretty much any fluid EXCEPT the 5.1.

There are no issues with the DOT5.1. It's the DOT5 fluid that is the problem as it is silicone-based. A bit confusing, but 5.1 is basically a high-performing DOT4 that meets the boiling point specs of DOT5.

Chris

mtcwby · 01-02-2010, 07:27 PM

Same drill as bleeding anything in the past, I flushed out my DOT3 with Motul RBF600 DOT4 fluid. The Motul 600 has a higher wet boiling temp than the DOT5 even and It is compatible with the oem fluid, but I sucked out the reservoir and refilled with the Motul, then start with the right rear and bleed til you have it running clear with the new stuff. Then do the left rear, then left front, and last right front. There's no problem with the antilocks. The Brembos already supposedly have speed bleeders in them, but I still had someone in the car pushing the pedal the old fashioned way, while I did the bleeders. Make sure to keep topping off the reservoir. It took two 500ml bottles, but have a third bottle on hand just in case.

Michael_Js · 01-02-2010, 07:33 PM

Cool! Thanks!!

12-29-2009, 10:49 AM	#1
Michael_Js SoCal C5 Family Member Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Posts: 5,299 View My Garage	Some help: New brake lines and bleeding... Ok, I've done motorcycle SS brake lines and then bleeding with new fluids, but have never done a car. I have the Goodridge SS brake lines coming as well as the Stillen drilled/slotted rotors; also new Hawk ceramic pads. I want to do them all at the same time - then I'll paint the calipers Orange Can someone give me a quick - "how to" - on bleeding the SS brakes? I do have a Mityvac (I think?) hand pump for brakes - it's what I use on my motorcycle. Also, I see lots of people using DOT4 fluid, even though the container cover and manual indicate DOT3. I assume that's ok? The brake fluid container is the same as used for the clutch, correct? Many thanks! Michael J. __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers;

01-02-2010, 07:27 PM	#4
mtcwby High on "The Camaro Life" Drives: 2010 2SS, IOM, LS3, Vortech, LG cam Join Date: May 2009 Location: Big Sandy, MT & Yuma, AZ Posts: 1,028 View My Garage	Same drill as bleeding anything in the past, I flushed out my DOT3 with Motul RBF600 DOT4 fluid. The Motul 600 has a higher wet boiling temp than the DOT5 even and It is compatible with the oem fluid, but I sucked out the reservoir and refilled with the Motul, then start with the right rear and bleed til you have it running clear with the new stuff. Then do the left rear, then left front, and last right front. There's no problem with the antilocks. The Brembos already supposedly have speed bleeders in them, but I still had someone in the car pushing the pedal the old fashioned way, while I did the bleeders. Make sure to keep topping off the reservoir. It took two 500ml bottles, but have a third bottle on hand just in case. __________________ "The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who are not."-Thomas Jefferson------Going Strong at 39,250 miles

01-02-2010, 07:33 PM	#5
Michael_Js SoCal C5 Family Member Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Posts: 5,299 View My Garage	Cool! Thanks!! __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers;

12-29-2009, 11:06 AM	#2
Moriartii Drives: 11 IOM 2SS/RS M6 w/Hurst Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Austin Texas Posts: 1,269	Pretty much the same drill on a car as on a bike, although the ABS part may be a bit different. With regard to the fluid I believe you can use pretty much any fluid EXCEPT the 5.1. Check this tho for specifics because I dont remember the exact type but one is silicon based and will just turn into snot if mixed with the other kind. Also make sure you have some line wrenches handy and get some speed bleeders. I assume you know this but the line wrenches are made for fittings such as brake lines and such, keeps from rounding them out when loosening. Also you may want to go to Home Depot or Lowes and get some clear tubing to come off the bleeders. Put the tubing into a container (jar or something that the brake fluid wont eat) and crack the bleeder while a partner depresses the brake pedal. This will help force the fluid through and then you can fine tune with the mighty vac. Cheers K