which oil, filter, spark plugs, plug wires, checking it all

[RubyCamaro]

Nothing that showed up on the track. Times are virtually the same, maybe a slight bit worse. Dyno shows better, sounds better, butt dyno feels better, but not on the track????????? I'm going to let the tuner look at it again & tweak it some but wanted to give her a good basic going over first to rule out anything obvious & ensure nothing was amiss.

[K1SSRSS]

Originally Posted by RubyCamaro

Nothing that showed up on the track. Times are virtually the same, maybe a slight bit worse. Dyno shows better, sounds better, butt dyno feels better, but not on the track????????? I'm going to let the tuner look at it again & tweak it some but wanted to give her a good basic going over first to rule out anything obvious & ensure nothing was amiss.

What was the HP and TQ gain on the dyno, if you have the dyno chart we may be able to get a little better idea of what the car may be doing.

Possibilities

- It's likely the extra power has you spinning the tires a little more on take off, how do your 60' times and 1/4 mph compare to original.

- It is possible if your running with traction control on the computer may be pulling the same amount of power to limit slip thus your running the same times. Maybe all you need is some stickier tires or a little different launch routine.

- On another note, I am guessing headers and tune on a V-6 would pick up 2-3 tenths in the 1/4 thus very easily being offset also by heat DA and various other weather conditions at the track.

Now on to the other ideas,

Plugs & Wires, should be fine at 37,000 miles. Those wires you see in the picture appear to be wiring harness wires, some heat shielding may be good to keep them from cracking years down the road, but unless they touch the headers I highly doubt they will melt.

Transmission and Differential Oils - If your car is a manual transmission, I would replace both the tranny and diff fluid with Royal Purple, not sure that there is any HP to free up, but you will notice a difference in the smoothness of both. (if auto tranny, I would use Amsoil in the tranny and RP in the diff)

Motor Oil - Mobil 1 is fine, Penz Ultra is fine, with name brands its mostly a matter of preference and checking that they have the GM rating on the bottle. Now if you want the best oil possible, although likely not necessary for your application, Amsoil make some really good products.

Oil Filter - I like the RP and K&N filters, what I like about these is they have an anti-drain back valve which help to prevent dry start-ups by keeping oil in the ports and galleys of the motor when it's shut off.

Lastly have you checked your Air Filter and do you have a cold air intake?

Hope this helps, yes I drive an SS, but have had plenty of experience with the V-6's and a lot of the info crosses over.

[RubyCamaro]

On another thread some C5 guys checked DA on my 1/8th mi runs and with that figured in concluded what I noted above that there is virtually no improvement & possibly a bit worse. We have not yet figured DA for my recent & past 1/4 mi runs but I'm pretty sure they will show pretty much the same thing as above, as weather conditions for my best previous run & best one this time (after headers/tune etc) were virtually the same at the same track. On the runs I am using (best times) I did not have much if any tire sliping/spinning though as the day progressed both days the track got slicker & tires did spin some though that was also true before headers/tune. I am quite sure I'd benefit from some skinnies up front & slicks or at least wider better gripping tires but for now I want apples to apples comparison & expect to see some gains from the recent round of mods. I suspect the tune is the issue as the HP dyno tune for the LLT is still in Beta but just want to rule out anything else that may be going on & make sure she is on good working order before getting the tune tweaked. BTW air filter is fine.

[K1SSRSS]

I'm gonna have to think a little harder on this one to see if I can come up with any other possibilities, but all things are pointing to the tune being off a little. Did your lower RPM (2000-3500 RPM) torque and HP increase any on the dyno?

[RubyCamaro]

Yes but these LLT's don't dyno well in the upper speed range due to knock sensors picking up dyno noises & interpreting it is knock, pulling timing & the car not being "under load" so on all my dynos high end data is pretty useless. DBR High Performance tuner said that when he took the car out on the road with his computer logging it "was perfect" whatever that means as he has never sent me any data from that road run.

[RubyCamaro]

This thread has the time slips from 1/8th Mi & DA info:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...t=87929&page=8

Here is a pic of hte after installs/tune dyno with results from before, after headers & after tune:

[RubyCamaro]

Here are a couple of befire dynos from LS fest in Bowling Green a couple of years (as you will see the conditions were hot/humid outside those days & of course a different type dyno.

[911medic]

Originally Posted by K1SSRSS

Oil Filter - I like the RP and K&N filters, what I like about these is they have an anti-drain back valve which help to prevent dry start-ups by keeping oil in the ports and galleys of the motor when it's shut off.

Hope this helps, yes I drive an SS, but have had plenty of experience with the V-6's and a lot of the info crosses over.

I don't think the oil filter info crosses over, only because the V6 has a cartridge style filter with no valve.

[K1SSRSS]

Originally Posted by 911medic

I don't think the oil filter info crosses over, only because the V6 has a cartridge style filter with no valve.

I may be wrong, but I do believe they have a filter that replaces the canister. If not any name brand filter will be about the same, just look at the microns of filtration.

[RubyCamaro]

I got a wix. Mike is still looking for the oil. I plan to get that done Friday.

[911medic]

I've used wix before. I've heard they're good quality.

[911medic]

Originally Posted by K1SSRSS

I may be wrong, but I do believe they have a filter that replaces the canister.

I'm not understanding what you mean.

The V6 has a filter housing that's attached to the engine, with a cap that screws off. Inside is the replaceable cartridge, which is a cylinder of pleated filter material with rubber gaskets on each end. It's hollow through the middle, like a tube. No place for a valve. It's not a spin-on filter at all.

Maybe you know all this, but I'm not understanding you.

(Sorry for the derail, Ruby!)

[KaBoom1701]

Mobil One is what I've been using with no issues.

Ruby, have you tried an upper intake cleaning? I know even with a catch can oil does built up on our motors.

[RubyCamaro]

Yeah, thinking about that but getting mixed reviews on whether or not it is likely to be needed given my low mileage & having a catch can since early on.

There is an Open House at my tuner this weekend. I'm hoping he will take a look at it & tell me what he thinks. I sent him an email with the above data asking him to let me know what he thinks but have not heard back yet. Probably busy with work & getting ready for the open house.