Best way to break in engine on 2014 ss/rs 1le

[Camaro Dude]

Originally Posted by Sftshldr

I followed the hard method described in the link (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39955) when I got my car. Put a dirty side catch can on at around 35 miles and the "clean" side 1LE air oil separator at around 90. Hit 140 before 200 miles on the interstate at 05:30 on a Sunday morning. Oil changed at 1000 miles as well as differential fluid. I have over 5500 miles now and can't keep the grin off my face when guys ask if I have a supercharger because it runs so well and just pulls and pulls and pulls.

Break in your cars however you want to is all I am going to say, but I KNOW how I am going to do it from now on to my new cars.

When you installed the catch can on the dirty side at 35 miles on the odometer, and drove it hard afterwards, how much oil did you collect in the next 1000 virgin miles?

[JCunningham]

professional engine builders break them in hard. change your oil now, your rear end at 500. I changed my tranny oil over to Amsoil at 1400 or around there and it looked new. do it at 500, 1000 and 1500 on the engine then regular. 91 or higher octane. 93 recommended even by GM.

[StevenM]

GM Manual says to not exceed 4000RPM the first 1000-1500 miles. After that, it wouldn't be a bad idea to change the oil and oil filter with some nice high quality oil and not the Dexos OEM oil. Then....enjoy your 6.2L V8 monster!

[Snidely Whiplash]

Originally Posted by eagle1

Never bought a new hot rod. All i ever had was 60"s hot rods. I build a bunch of sm blk and BB that i would brake in for 500 miles. It also depended if i build it on the tight end of the scale or loses end. I would check for any issues in the oil and go hunt for mustangs!
I would make sure drive train was set up to for hard hits.
Thanks for your input i really need to get some miles in. Maybe ill take a good trip up the coast and put some Highway miles in.

My 60s and 70s hot rods were barely streetable so I drove it until it was at full operating temp 10 times. Then I drove it to the dragstrip and made 5 60' passes. After that, it was all out.

I NEVER ran chrome rings as they took forever to seat. File to fit plasma-moly rinds would seat quickly. Engine acceleration as well and deceleration during each warm up run around insured a good ring seat. I ALWAYS primed the motor by driving the oil pump with a 1/2" drive drill and a primer tool that fits in the distributor hole. Spin it until you have oil pressure and your first start is not just on the assembly lube.

I used auto transmission fluid to lube the cylinders while installing pistons. I learned that from a guy that built his own car and he and a partner qualified it for the Indy 500 back in the late 50s. The old guys made their own parts, so they knew what they were talking about.

[Snidely Whiplash]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

professional engine builders break them in hard. change your oil now, your rear end at 500. I changed my tranny oil over to Amsoil at 1400 or around there and it looked new. do it at 500, 1000 and 1500 on the engine then regular. 91 or higher octane. 93 recommended even by GM.

Reher-Morrison breaks in the motors on the engine dyno. Warm it up, put it on a load, let it cool. CRANK it!

If you build your own motor, PRIME the oil pump and motor with a 1/2" drive drill and proper tool. Assembly lube only work so much. Get oil pressure BRFORE you ever crank it. Your cylinder walls and camshaft (especially a non-roller) will thank you.

[Indydriver]

If you are truly interested in break-in (and all the other wonderful features of your high performance LS3 engine), READ THIS:

http://www.camarohomepage.com/ls3/

Among the many interesting tidbits shared by the GM engineers that designed the LS3 is that the piston skirts are coated with a polymer designed to wear away during break-in. New engines are built with pistons that have a 2 micron positive fit in other words, it's an "interference fit" I.e., over tight so that once the polymer wears away, the post-break in fit of piston and piston rings to cylinder wall is optimized. So.....

You can listen to the opinions on the internet or.....

You can listen to the very smart people who designed your engine and test it to last past 150,000 miles of abuse by a "95th percentile" customer.

Think about this.

[Slowhawk]

My car had 11 miles on it before I was doing donuts on the rev limiter. Then a bunch of high rpm pulls with long decel's. That's not how I drive but I know the result from years of working on these motors.

The engineers are just that- over thinking people.

Through the years of when the LS motor first came out I've seen 1 thing over/over and still see it.

Car gets broken in by the manual, easy driving for 500-1000 miles= oil consumption problems, low on power. Yes, some are fine

Owner drives hard off the lot, races or just drives stupid with it- very low to no oil consumption, higher hp on the dyno. Longivity not affected.

For our new LS engine builds- non factory parts/specs= get new engine up to temp, hammer down on the dyno under heavy load while the headers are glowing red. Do multiple pulls while tuning it in. Motor's always burn clean with no issue's.

This is just my opinion from experience of what I've seen through the years.

[redredrage]

Originally Posted by StevenM

GM Manual says to not exceed 4000RPM the first 1000-1500 miles. After that, it wouldn't be a bad idea to change the oil and oil filter with some nice high quality oil and not the Dexos OEM oil. Then....enjoy your 6.2L V8 monster!

i agree but change your dexos out to m1 synthetic after 3k miles and dont exceede 4k rpm after 3 k miles.

also be sure to throttle blip and down shift for fuel cut\slow down(do this sparingly in the city as its hard to tell how quickly people want to stop or if someone makes an emergency stop) , this helps your rings seat the other way against the vaccum instead of compression.

[Snidely Whiplash]

Hypereutectic pistons do not expand as much thermally as do forged pistons. This allows for very tight piston to cylinder clearance and the result is quicker break-in and less piston slap at start up.

Harleys have been using them for years. I remember the aftermarket manufacturers making them for high performance street engines over 30 years ago. They are GREAT for a long-living street engine but cannot stand up to the stresses of high-ptrssure huffers, nitrous, or racing near as well as the forged piston. They DO excel at a quioet long-living high performance type engine and provide excellent oil control. As such, piston rings can fit tighter to the cylinder as does the piston.

[Snidely Whiplash]

Originally Posted by redredrage

i agree but change your dexos out to m1 synthetic after 3k miles and dont exceede 4k rpm after 3 k miles.

also be sure to throttle blip and down shift for fuel cut\slow down(do this sparingly in the city as its hard to tell how quickly people want to stop or if someone makes an emergency stop) , this helps your rings seat the other way against the vaccum instead of compression.

As a Harley rider, that is a habit.

[redredrage]

Originally Posted by Iam Broke

I got my foot into it during break in but kept it under 4500 rpm for the first 500 miles. Also engine braked a few times per drive. Seated the rings well, hardly any oil in my catch can, just condensate for the most part.

i burned 1 qt at 3 to 5k miles but half of that was at 1.5 k miles.

now that I'm at 70k miles im lucky to burn 0.5qt at 6k miles

There are alot of people who burn oil here, and if i were a betting man it would be that the rings did not seat the other way.

[Indydriver]

Read this. It is a interview of the engineers at GM who designed the LS3. You will learn a lot about your engine. Perhaps everyone will have a little more respect for manufacturer's recommendations on break-in, blow-by, oil, etc., etc., etc. Knowing that they design the pistons for an initial +2 micron clearance in the cylinder should make you think about rationalizing an early WOT break-in, among other things.

http://www.camarohomepage.com/ls3/

[BMTGIE]

Must over looked the "break instructions" in my manual. Didn't see it