11-23-2013, 12:54 PM | #43 | |
Drives: ‘13 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013
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11-24-2013, 12:00 AM | #44 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
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professional engine builders break them in hard. change your oil now, your rear end at 500. I changed my tranny oil over to Amsoil at 1400 or around there and it looked new. do it at 500, 1000 and 1500 on the engine then regular. 91 or higher octane. 93 recommended even by GM.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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12-12-2013, 09:57 AM | #45 |
I love my Camaro 2SS/RS
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GM Manual says to not exceed 4000RPM the first 1000-1500 miles. After that, it wouldn't be a bad idea to change the oil and oil filter with some nice high quality oil and not the Dexos OEM oil. Then....enjoy your 6.2L V8 monster!
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2013 2SS/RS (THESTIG): Factory Hurst Short Throw / CAI Intake / Elite Engineering Catch Can / SLP Loudmouth Axleback / Strut Tower Bar / Ported TB & Intake Manifold / HP Tuning / 414.75rwhp
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12-27-2013, 09:34 AM | #46 | |
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I NEVER ran chrome rings as they took forever to seat. File to fit plasma-moly rinds would seat quickly. Engine acceleration as well and deceleration during each warm up run around insured a good ring seat. I ALWAYS primed the motor by driving the oil pump with a 1/2" drive drill and a primer tool that fits in the distributor hole. Spin it until you have oil pressure and your first start is not just on the assembly lube. I used auto transmission fluid to lube the cylinders while installing pistons. I learned that from a guy that built his own car and he and a partner qualified it for the Indy 500 back in the late 50s. The old guys made their own parts, so they knew what they were talking about.
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Bring back Sunoco 260 to the local station. Some folks STILL drive L-88s and need the good gas.
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12-27-2013, 09:39 AM | #47 | |
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If you build your own motor, PRIME the oil pump and motor with a 1/2" drive drill and proper tool. Assembly lube only work so much. Get oil pressure BRFORE you ever crank it. Your cylinder walls and camshaft (especially a non-roller) will thank you.
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Bring back Sunoco 260 to the local station. Some folks STILL drive L-88s and need the good gas.
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01-10-2014, 05:34 AM | #48 |
Drives: '14 2SS/RS Vert 6M/KTU/NPP/DTA/ARH Join Date: Jan 2014
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If you are truly interested in break-in (and all the other wonderful features of your high performance LS3 engine), READ THIS:
http://www.camarohomepage.com/ls3/ Among the many interesting tidbits shared by the GM engineers that designed the LS3 is that the piston skirts are coated with a polymer designed to wear away during break-in. New engines are built with pistons that have a 2 micron positive fit in other words, it's an "interference fit" I.e., over tight so that once the polymer wears away, the post-break in fit of piston and piston rings to cylinder wall is optimized. So..... You can listen to the opinions on the internet or..... You can listen to the very smart people who designed your engine and test it to last past 150,000 miles of abuse by a "95th percentile" customer. Think about this. Last edited by Indydriver; 01-10-2014 at 08:46 AM. |
01-10-2014, 03:05 PM | #49 |
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My car had 11 miles on it before I was doing donuts on the rev limiter. Then a bunch of high rpm pulls with long decel's. That's not how I drive but I know the result from years of working on these motors.
The engineers are just that- over thinking people. Through the years of when the LS motor first came out I've seen 1 thing over/over and still see it. Car gets broken in by the manual, easy driving for 500-1000 miles= oil consumption problems, low on power. Yes, some are fine Owner drives hard off the lot, races or just drives stupid with it- very low to no oil consumption, higher hp on the dyno. Longivity not affected. For our new LS engine builds- non factory parts/specs= get new engine up to temp, hammer down on the dyno under heavy load while the headers are glowing red. Do multiple pulls while tuning it in. Motor's always burn clean with no issue's. This is just my opinion from experience of what I've seen through the years. |
01-11-2014, 11:09 AM | #50 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS manual all stock Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Royal Oak, MI
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also be sure to throttle blip and down shift for fuel cut\slow down(do this sparingly in the city as its hard to tell how quickly people want to stop or if someone makes an emergency stop) , this helps your rings seat the other way against the vaccum instead of compression. |
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01-12-2014, 06:20 AM | #51 |
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Hypereutectic pistons do not expand as much thermally as do forged pistons. This allows for very tight piston to cylinder clearance and the result is quicker break-in and less piston slap at start up.
Harleys have been using them for years. I remember the aftermarket manufacturers making them for high performance street engines over 30 years ago. They are GREAT for a long-living street engine but cannot stand up to the stresses of high-ptrssure huffers, nitrous, or racing near as well as the forged piston. They DO excel at a quioet long-living high performance type engine and provide excellent oil control. As such, piston rings can fit tighter to the cylinder as does the piston.
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Bring back Sunoco 260 to the local station. Some folks STILL drive L-88s and need the good gas.
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01-12-2014, 06:22 AM | #52 | |
Fight Crime, Drive Armed
Drives: '14 2SS Yelo Maro, HD collection Join Date: Jun 2013
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Quote:
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Bring back Sunoco 260 to the local station. Some folks STILL drive L-88s and need the good gas.
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01-12-2014, 11:09 AM | #53 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS manual all stock Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Royal Oak, MI
Posts: 160
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Quote:
now that I'm at 70k miles im lucky to burn 0.5qt at 6k miles There are alot of people who burn oil here, and if i were a betting man it would be that the rings did not seat the other way. |
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01-12-2014, 11:25 AM | #54 |
Drives: '14 2SS/RS Vert 6M/KTU/NPP/DTA/ARH Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Indianapolis
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Read this. It is a interview of the engineers at GM who designed the LS3. You will learn a lot about your engine. Perhaps everyone will have a little more respect for manufacturer's recommendations on break-in, blow-by, oil, etc., etc., etc. Knowing that they design the pistons for an initial +2 micron clearance in the cylinder should make you think about rationalizing an early WOT break-in, among other things.
http://www.camarohomepage.com/ls3/ |
03-01-2014, 04:21 PM | #55 |
Drives: 2014 RRM SS/ 2011 Black LS Join Date: May 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 305
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Must over looked the "break instructions" in my manual. Didn't see it
Last edited by BMTGIE; 03-01-2014 at 07:02 PM. |
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