Convertible Bass Part III Stealthbox Options

[thorr]

Thanks Steve. Which subs sound best in the factory spot? It sounds like the small sub box might be the way to go. How do you allow the air though the hole in the seats? Do you have to cut metal or fabric to let the air through? Could you just cut a hole in the panel where the hole is in the seats? It seems pretty destructive. Are you planning to have a way that the old trunk panel can be removed and put back later if wanted? Are you going to provide the other panel to replace it with?

Regarding the back seat speakers, Will JL Audio C2-350x speakers fit? How would you protect them with grills? Would the existing grills work?

Thanks again,
Mike

[Steve@Subthump]

Originally Posted by thorr

Thanks Steve. Which subs sound best in the factory spot? It sounds like the small sub box might be the way to go. How do you allow the air though the hole in the seats? Do you have to cut metal or fabric to let the air through? Could you just cut a hole in the panel where the hole is in the seats? It seems pretty destructive. Are you planning to have a way that the old trunk panel can be removed and put back later if wanted? Are you going to provide the other panel to replace it with?

Regarding the back seat speakers, Will JL Audio C2-350x speakers fit? How would you protect them with grills? Would the existing grills work?

Thanks again,
Mike

There are two metal walls behind the rear seat. They have huge gaping holes already in them--kinda like swiss cheese. So no fabrication is needed except for removing the rubber lining on the front wall if you like. So all you really need to do to get the sound waves thru is remove the stiff and insulated carpeted piece toward the front of the trunk. I took mine out and made a replacement out of thin wood and carpet, but I guess you could just cut holes in your current panel if you don't mind hacking it up. I imagine it's a pricey piece if you have to buy another so I saved mine and can put it back in whenever I need to.

The grilles on the rear speaker panels will cover replacement speakers. Just make sure the tweeters don't protrude past the surround too much. Mine did a little but I bent the tabs outward a bit to help sink the speakers in the hole to compensate.

[Steve@Subthump]

Originally Posted by CooG

Yeah, I've seen the pics of the behind the seat mount, but I know you were working on the rear speakers. That is kinda what I am waiting on.....

My plan is to use the behind the seat mount with a better sub. What I'm hoping you will (or did) put together is a package I can purchase. Sub, speakers, adapters, amp, and any other supplies.

Should I just call/email you to discuss??

Finding the connectors for building a rear harness is holding us up a bit.

There are just so many options that I don't want to make up entire packages because there is always one thing in there that one guy wants or doesn't want or wants this one instead of that one lol. So it's best to let guys pick their pieces. On a side note, we are working a deal with Scott at Hybrid Audio to offer their speakers for our c5 customers. So we might offer speakers with adapters or speakers, adapters, and harness or something like that. I think that would go over well. So look for those probably aug. or sept. of this year.

[thorr]

Thanks again Steve. Maybe I could just cut a hole in the panel or make a new identical panel with a hole in it and make a thin cover like a speaker grill cover like what is on home theater speakers. Can't wait to get my new car so I can get to work on it.

The rear speakers I mentioned have tweeters that protrude .54". I will take a look when I get the car to see what I can fit in there. After looking at the specs, I am worried about my JL 300/4 blowing the rear speakers with too much power. Maybe I can just dial it down on the amp and be ok.

[Steve@Subthump]

You could probably do that as long as it doesn't interfere with the box. The box butts right up against the wall. I'll take mine out and take some pics whenever I get a chance.

[thorr]

Thanks in advance for the pics Steve. Do you think I could remove the back panel and use something like this in its place: http://www.simplyspeakers.com/speake...ack-a-569.html

I am not sure how difficult it is to remove the back panel without damaging it and also how I would attach the speaker grill cloth. Maybe I could make an outer frame for it and attach the frame somehow.

[Wantconvertible]

Anymore updates

[Jonny]

Steve, can you share what the dimensions of the larger box is? Specifically the "box" part of it (the cube-ish section behind the woofer, towards the rear seat of the car). I need to know if there's 14 inches of depth in it. Thanks!

[Steve@Subthump]

It's 13.5. I could modify it quite easily to achieve 14". What's your idea?

[Steve@Subthump]

Originally Posted by thorr

Thanks in advance for the pics Steve. Do you think I could remove the back panel and use something like this in its place: http://www.simplyspeakers.com/speake...ack-a-569.html

I am not sure how difficult it is to remove the back panel without damaging it and also how I would attach the speaker grill cloth. Maybe I could make an outer frame for it and attach the frame somehow.

The back panel comes out quite easily. Once you get the screen out, There's a few more clips to pull out. If you already have the two tanneau bolts installed, you would need to remove those. They are at the top in the corners.

If I have not mentioned this before, I completely removed my pull-screen from the trunk. Once you have it out, the sensor can be defeated quite easily and the top operates great without any error messages or anything. When the salesman was demonstrating it to me I thought what a worthless POS. Can't wait to get that outta there. Who wants to go to the trunk to pull that back just so the top can go down.


I have experimented with loose coverings and they are difficult to attach to the car and tend to sag. What I did was make a thin panel that mimics the stock piece but doesn't go all the way down to the floor. Thus it does not block all the natural air passageways into the cabin. A guy could also trim out the factory piece, but I wasn't willing to do that on mine since I was eventually going to develop this into a sellable product. Anyway, you get a lot more bass coming at you this way. The bass isn't muffled hardly at all with the top down because there is a way for the pressure to escape, whereas with the panel in, the bass is trapped inside the trunk and all you get is a vibrating trunk and no bass in the cabin of the car. The only side effect is that it does introduce more exhaust noise in addition to the bass, but I think if a guy deadened the floor, it would completely quiet that down. Really it's not much different than the coupe because on the coupe, the only thing standing between the trunk and cabin is the seat and it is so porous, that it doesn't really block anything. If anyone is interested, I could try to snap a couple pics of my panel. I would say you can nearly double the bass from your stealthbox doing this, so I highly recommend it as soon as you put subs in the trunk.

[Lightson357]

Updates ?

[Shooting Star]

Has anybody tried GM part #92213214-sub amp trunk package on 2012 Camaro Convert? Comes complete, slightly pricey, $800 to a grand- wondering how it sounds with the top up and down?

[Steve@Subthump]

Originally Posted by Shooting Star

Has anybody tried GM part #92213214-sub amp trunk package on 2012 Camaro Convert? Comes complete, slightly pricey, $800 to a grand- wondering how it sounds with the top up and down?

That looks like the gm coupe option. The convertibles with the boston system include a sub behind the rear seat, but it doesn't hit very hard. This is where we come in because most of our customers are ditching that free-air sub and installing one of our stealthboxes in the trunk for some real bass.

[v8]

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