08-31-2013, 04:38 PM | #43 |
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Wow, that is something.
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08-31-2013, 09:21 PM | #44 |
ROAD COURSE JUNKIE
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Depends on how mechanically inclined you are. I thought it was rather easy. Hardest part was bleeding the brakes after the install.
Either you got lucky and have a car with no problems or you are not driving it hard enough. Mine was pitch black after 8k miles.
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09-01-2013, 12:10 AM | #45 |
Drives: 2013 2SS 1LE NPP GBE Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Bay Area, online, & in my 1LE
Posts: 2,667
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I didn't have to bleed the brakes when I did mine. I just removed enough fluid from the brake reservoir such that when I removed the clutch line it didn't drip. Then I capped the clutch line outlet on the reservoir and restored the fluid. In other words, my brake pressure was constant the whole time.
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09-01-2013, 12:19 AM | #46 |
ROAD COURSE JUNKIE
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Because I replaced the entire master cylinder reservoir and I flushed the whole system with DOT4 fluid.
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09-01-2013, 07:46 AM | #47 | |
I'll be back...
Drives: Subaru, HD Road Glide Special Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 3,036
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Quote:
I'm not buying the clutch dust theory. Heat will easily discolor fluid. If I did have the issue myself, I would do my own analysis to pinpoint the cause. The way I see it, if dust could get in, fluid could come out. Nobody ever reports leaks. To further that, there are thousands of M6 cars on the road that don't get any kind of maintenance on the brake fluid, and they're still rocking strong. I don't run a catch can either (gasp!), and my intake manifold is spotless. If nothing else, 25 years as a pro tech have taught me that you don't need to chase problems that aren't there. I do realize that some people do see these issues on their car, but I don't. I'll never buy equipment that I don't need. Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk 4
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Bye bye, Bumblebee!
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09-01-2013, 01:15 PM | #48 | |
ROAD COURSE JUNKIE
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Quote:
After 45 days at two different dealerships over 1 1/2 years with no fix I was either going to trade the car in or find a solution to the problem. What I did fixed my problem and I have had no more issues even on several road courses in 100+ degree temps.
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09-02-2013, 08:22 PM | #49 | |
Drives: 13' 1LE Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 2,640
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Youre right about not chasing inexistant problems, but prevention is important too. Many threads about problems with trans and clutch, the problem is real and this is a good start for the fix.
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13' 1LE
Old setup: TSP 231-236/Tick 660/.105 PR, UDP, SW LT 2'' & HFC, stock NPP & H pipe, VR-DRX CAI, air scoop, Goertz1 manifold, 102mm BBK, 26" Toyo DRs, Forgestars R17x10 & F18x8, rear seat delete, remote Pat G tune Autocal, 7400 limiter, Spec Mini Twin. 91oct. 11.90@122.3, 0-60ft 2.0 / 11.99@123.6, 0-60ft 2.1 DA+819 ...519RWHP SAE Solid roller SBE LS3, FED, LLSR, 91oct, 605rwhp N/A. Tuned by Pat G. Build by me. |
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09-03-2013, 08:45 AM | #50 | |
I'll be back...
Drives: Subaru, HD Road Glide Special Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 3,036
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Quote:
I have cut one of these slave cylinders in half, just to try to validate the concept. I'm no engineer, but I'm a 25-year ASE Master Tech certification holder, and have done my fair share of racing. This concept defies logic. Consider this: since your clutch is essentially a centrifugal disc, where is dust and particulate going to naturally migrate to? AWAY from the center, where the slave cylinder lives. I get it, opinions vary. However, I don't take things as a given, especially because "it says so on the internet". My fluid has some discoloration, yes. All brake fluid discolors. It's doing its job. There is absolutely no particulate matter in there, just discoloration from heat. Again, people can spend their cash where they think they need to. Me, I'd spend $100 to disprove the notion that I "must" buy a $10 chotchkie for my ride. That's just how I roll.
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Bye bye, Bumblebee!
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09-17-2013, 03:46 PM | #51 |
2SS/1LE GAZ 1 of 221
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I had to revisit this thread...
I drive like an old man... well... everything's relative; let's say I drive about 2/3 as hard as I did when I was thirty. I'm an old head who always turns off the nannies... unless it's raining cause "I" wanna drive. I learned how to drive in a manual... manual EVERYTHING for that matter, and for thirty-five years I've always had a manual. I shift smooth as silk almost 100% of the time and average about 24mpg in my 1LE. I have seen as much as 78mi after a fill-up with the DIC reading 422mi to empty for a 500mi tank full of gas. You feeling me? I'm easy. I just checked the Dot 4 in my clutch reservoir after 2000mi and it was FUBARED. A ten minute change and it's crystal again. It is what it is...
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...ain't nothing changed
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09-18-2013, 12:09 AM | #52 | |
Angry by Nature
Drives: 13' Camaro 1SS/RS/1LE/NPP 1 of 76 Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 343
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Quote:
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2013 CHEVROLET CAMARO 1SS/RS/1LE/NPP 1 OF 76 Roto Fab CAI 1LE BADGES |
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09-18-2013, 12:23 AM | #53 |
Angry by Nature
Drives: 13' Camaro 1SS/RS/1LE/NPP 1 of 76 Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 343
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Also if the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor after numerous hot lapping or heavy use, you be wise to think your pushing the clutch hydraulics to the point of component failure. The heat involved to cause the pedal to stick is enough to start breaking down the fluid. Even if you run DOT 4 WITH A BOILING POINT OF 446F. Ton of threads on the 4th gen f body websites with same issues. I have 1100 miles of hard driving and fluid looks just fine. I'd worry about the ph level, some say corrosive protection first before the color. They have special litmus strips used to check the balance and need to change.
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2013 CHEVROLET CAMARO 1SS/RS/1LE/NPP 1 OF 76 Roto Fab CAI 1LE BADGES |
09-18-2013, 04:19 PM | #54 | |
Drives: 2013 IOM 2SS 1LE Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Damascus Or
Posts: 403
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Quote:
disclaimer...I only have 950 miles so far...The best I have gotten so far is 15.3MPG and that's not driving 10/10 all the time. Maybe after the break in it will get better?
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09-18-2013, 05:48 PM | #55 |
2SS/1LE GAZ 1 of 221
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It gets better and better. I swear pulling the fuse in the trunk seemed to help... the intake helped a little too...
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...ain't nothing changed
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09-18-2013, 06:41 PM | #56 |
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I was wondering, since i replace my fluid after every tank,and go through like 5 fluid changes in the process.I pump the clutch 30 times,before sucking the fluid out.So this is like 150 clutch pumps,will this promote early clutch wear?
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