2010 - Any Known Issues?

[BlackinBlack]

Originally Posted by D Nasty

I bought an early 2010 used no issues at all.
Also on he early 2010's there is a recall on the battery cable. Although this should have been fixed a long time ago at the dealership.

- all models

Originally Posted by 376LS3

Early VIN number '10s have problems with weak output shaft on the manual trannys. That all I can think of right now...

-Manual V8 cars only.



I had an early 2010. These were to two major potential issues that were 2010 exclusive. My car had neither and was a very early production car. (Before Summit white was available and I had the "Chicklets")

Other things to look for would be

1) crackling and bubbling noise from the passenger side dash - It was common and there was a TSB to fix. It was due to air in the heater core lines. Very common but did not cause damage just noise. My car had this and it was quickly fixed.

2) Radio glitches with iPods and certain blue tooth phones. Again dealer updates would make them better. My car did not have this but I did have the dealer update anyway. (My MyLink has more bugs than my 2010 did. )

3) On V8 cars there could be rear end noise and chattering. TSB fix to replace oil and seals. Very common and easy to fix but tends to return. This issue still happens on even current cars.

4) Water leak at oil cooler on side of the block. Again common and still occurs on current cars. (My ZL1 had this but my 2010 SS did not but some did.)

5) Some 2010 cars the AC vent was pinched and caused water to leak into the cabin. By now this should have been fixed but something to be aware.

6) Brake squealing at low speeds on V8 cars. GM attempted to fix with Rim weights on the calipers. Later cars had different brake pads with "roller skates" attached. My 2010 had the wheel weights. I heard it occasionally but not really an issue. My ZL1 makes this noise too. This is a common complaint on ALL cars that have Brembo brakes. Not really an issue but just something to be aware. Due to not having the "roller skate" style pads early cars are more prone to produce it. Low mileage car might have original brake pads. Car that was driven normally might have them replaced.

7) Driver's seat creaking. TSB to fix but never really can be fixed. Again still effect current cars. My 2010 did have this and the fix did not repair. My ZL1 does not but other peoples do. I have found slightly adjusting the seat position makes this go away but again something to be aware.

8) Rear wing bolts loose. Fix is to tighten them. My 2010 did have this. Little lock tight and a wrench I fixed it. By now most should have been fixed.

9) Window index bug. Fix is to roll the window down hold button and roll up and hold button to reset. My 2010 did this occasionally. Seems to not occur on my 2013.

OK are you scared to buy one yet? Don't be worried as all the things listed are minor and most are an easy fix (most should already be fixed by now). Others still exist on new cars so no worries just happens. Overall my 2010 gave my years of trouble free enjoyment. There were a few glitches but my 2013 has some too. (GM an update for MyLink would be nice.... hint hint.)

Also ABM is a great color and very rare. I wish I had one and if my ZL1 could have been that color it would be right now.

[SabotAndHeat]

2010 SS. Almost 70,000. Manual.

Not one single issue.

In fact, the only recall I ever saw was that some of the first one or two batchs had a bad battery cable or something piddly like that.

[POWERFREAK]

Originally Posted by SabotAndHeat

2010 SS. Almost 70,000. Manual.

Not one single issue.

In fact, the only recall I ever saw was that some of the first one or two batchs had a bad battery cable or something piddly like that.

Yup, the batt cable was only like the first 1000 cars or something like that.

[tohper]

2010 2SS/RS bought used about 6 months ago. No problems so far besides the Nasty mod bug ive dropped around 5g's on mods to this point and dropping another G this week.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

[40years]

Only major problem I've had was the passenger side dash cracking along the score lines for the air bag. Car was 1500 miles out of warranty and only cost me $100 for a new dash. Otherwise, no problems in 43,000 miles.

[Rocky1974]

Originally Posted by rpatten

I am getting close to pulling the trigger on a used Camaro. The last thing concerning me about a 2010 is the fact that it is the first model year of the new platform. Are there any significant issues with the 2010 model year that I should be aware of? I'm trying to decide between a 2010 ABM and a 2011 or 2012 Crystal Red Jewel Tintcoat. I prefer ABM, but am a bit nervous about the 2010. I'm sure this has been covered in other threads, but I wanted to throw it out there.

I've got an early build 2010 and the only issue that I've had is a loose rear spoiler. I was replacing it with a NLP spoiler anyway, so it was no problem. I've wondered about the transmission output shaft, but I've never had any problems. Keep in mind that the 2010 Camaro won its class in the J.D.Powers long term reliability survey, so if you buy anything else, in this class, you'll be getting something less reliable. BTW, I love ABM. It's a beautiful color and very rare.

[RubyCamaro]

There was also a small issue with the seats in that the plastic cover over seat adjuster controls would break loose & pull away from hte seat. Mine did this but was easily fixed under warranty with a reinforced part & never another problem.

[RoachDad]

I have not had any of these issues. I am in a 5th Gen car club with over 100 cars and I have not heard any of them either. I do hear a little clunk every now and then when I first back out of the garage and you guys are scaring me.

These sound like individual issues and not universal ones.

The only universal issue I am aware of is if you run regular or low octane fuel, your computer will adjust for that. If you go back to high octane or premium fuel, your computer will NOT reset and you will have to pull fuses 5 and 20 to reset the computer.

[RoachDad]

BTW, what is the result of the weak drive shaft? I have a very early VIN (#29). I have raced on a road track and at the drag strip with no troubles. Am I playing with fire?

[POWERFREAK]

Originally Posted by RoachDad

BTW, what is the result of the weak drive shaft? I have a very early VIN (#29). I have raced on a road track and at the drag strip with no troubles. Am I playing with fire?

It's the output shaft in the trans (w/ the TR6060)....not the driveshaft that was the issue (although driveshafts also do break). It wasnt an issue w/ all early cars, so if you're trans didn't break yet, I think your fine.

[Nakam]

Make sure to check the dash for a crack. My roommate and I both have a 2010 and had the crack issue. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...t=cracked+dash

[Rocky1974]

Originally Posted by RoachDad

I have not had any of these issues. I am in a 5th Gen car club with over 100 cars and I have not heard any of them either. I do hear a little clunk every now and then when I first back out of the garage and you guys are scaring me.

These sound like individual issues and not universal ones.

The only universal issue I am aware of is if you run regular or low octane fuel, your computer will adjust for that. If you go back to high octane or premium fuel, your computer will NOT reset and you will have to pull fuses 5 and 20 to reset the computer.

The loose spoiler was very common on the early build 2010's. There's a TSB on it that tells the tech to put blue Loctite on the studs and torque the nuts. I think the problem was traced to a defective torque wrench at the Oshawa plant.

They also had bunch of TR6060 output shaft failures in the early build cars. It was bad enough that they stopped shipping SS manuals for a while. There was a bunch of PO'ed people on here in the summer of '09 because GM wouldn't release their cars. I heard first that they traced it to a batch of improperly heat treated shafts. Then I heard that it was caused by a groove that was machined into the shafts, which weakened them. I have no idea which story is true, but they did seem to get to the bottom of it pretty quick and I haven't heard of it happening since.

There's absolutely nothing different how the PCM in these cars handle low octane fuel from any other car that GM builds. When you put low octane fuel in it, the knock sensors pick up the onset of detonation and the PCM retards the ignition timing until the detonation goes away. The PCM doesn't have any way of knowing when there's high octane fuel back in the tank again, so it's not aggressive about advancing the ignition back. It does this slowly over time. All the fuse pull does, is give you all the timing and thus the power back immediately. GM's PCMs have always operated like this, I have an '87 IROC in the garage that I used to run nitrous on when it was new and the ECM in it behaves exactly the same way. I don't know who started this story that these cars won't ever give you the power back, if you run regular in them, and therefore they are defective, but it's B.S. These PCMs are operating exactly the way they are designed and it's the same way they have always operated.

[rpatten]

VIN is 2G1FT1EW3A9150978

Does this mean the production number was 50,978 or 150,978? Either way, it looks like I am far beyond the 22,000 range with the problem output shafts. Correct?

[POWERFREAK]

Originally Posted by rpatten

VIN is 2G1FT1EW3A9150978

Does this mean the production number was 50,978 or 150,978? Either way, it looks like I am far beyond the 22,000 range with the problem output shafts. Correct?

50,978....I think. Output shaft shouldn't be an issue.