Project clutch master cylinder/second gear grind

[FIGRRL]

done! just did it.... i need it asap i have a few (5) track days at the end of this month and my clutch pedal is very very slow to return and sticks... this is really NOT fun on a road course, even more so when testing for a license!

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by FIGRRL

done! just did it.... i need it asap i have a few (5) track days at the end of this month and my clutch pedal is very very slow to return and sticks... this is really NOT fun on a road course, even more so when testing for a license!

shipped, thanks

[FIGRRL]

Originally Posted by IDEALG

shipped, thanks

You are AWESOME!!!!!!!

[Buddy]

For everyone with a V6, the clutch line has a dampener in it. It looks like a snail shell right after the master cylinder. This is compressing a piece of metal against a spring at the same time you want to send the fluid to the throw out bearing. Also the stock line has a small diameter which we all know is not good.

I have done two things and the easiest fix is to buy the V8 stainless steel clutch line. It comes with a couple fittings to adapt to threaded line. These fittings have a smaller diameter than the V6 ones so I drilled them out to V6 size and only on one (the one going into the bleeder on the transmission) of the fittings I placed it on a lathe and turned it down where the retaining clip goes because the clip would not go in. I took .010" off the side that goes into the bleeder, so the end with rubber seal.

A good time to separate to a stand alone clutch reservoir.

So with the bigger diameter stainless steel line and Ideal Garage master cylinder it is shifting better. I cant say which help more or less because it was done both at same time.

So total cost was around $450 materials with bleeder ($550 R&D stock clutch system).

So for the V6 guys strapped for cash and needing results now, I would recommend upgrading clutch line to remove the dampener. (easy too!!) I bought mine from tick performance. Then save for the master cylinder from Ideal Garage.

[Fuel74]

Thanks Buddy - great information. Been trying to find an upgrade for the clutch line for the V6. Will definitely give this a try.

[Buddy]

Also recommend to change gear oil in transmission every 20k with stock oils, and 30K with high performance gear oil. This makes everything smoother. Don't forget the diff oil, mine was gummy at 35K. Noticed improved shifting for such a cheap and easy servicing.

[Buddy]

Also an update to my mod, If I push the clutch pedal all the way and the throw out bearing makes a rubbing noise, so i stop about an inch away from floor board and works fine, so if anyone just does the V8 stainless steel line upgrade on V6's without the ideal master cylinder please chime in and let us know if this happens still. I believe that I am pushing too much fluid now.

[IDEALG]

Sorry guys but i'm unable to make the fest this year

I hope you all have a blast, i'm really going to miss out on some good times.
hope to hear how great it was after it's over. good luck and be safe everyone!!

[t.c.tam]

Originally Posted by Buddy

Also an update to my mod, If I push the clutch pedal all the way and the throw out bearing makes a rubbing noise, so i stop about an inch away from floor board and works fine, so if anyone just does the V8 stainless steel line upgrade on V6's without the ideal master cylinder please chime in and let us know if this happens still. I believe that I am pushing too much fluid now.

I get a little rubbing noise as well when I push it all the way down. Only thing I did was the ideal g cylinder.

[Buddy]

Originally Posted by t.c.tam

I get a little rubbing noise as well when I push it all the way down. Only thing I did was the ideal g cylinder.

Thanks for posting your experience of throw out bearing rubbing. Anyone else experiencing the same thing, or are we the only flukers

[BES Stroked]

Got my car used a few months ago, had a stock hurst(2011 unit) and was ok, if I shifted below 5500, mods came quickly, and when i got the tune and headers I couldnt shift it at 6k going into 2nd, everything else was good, so I changed to a MGW shifter, and amsoil fluid and it was great.

now its cammed and I cant shift into 2nd again, but all other gears are great.

I been through this problem with 4th gens, looking for a solution, cause I think the stock clutch will hold fine for what I want, just need to be able to shift.

you think this will help?

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by BES Stroked

Got my car used a few months ago, had a stock hurst(2011 unit) and was ok, if I shifted below 5500, mods came quickly, and when i got the tune and headers I couldnt shift it at 6k going into 2nd, everything else was good, so I changed to a MGW shifter, and amsoil fluid and it was great.

now its cammed and I cant shift into 2nd again, but all other gears are great.

I been through this problem with 4th gens, looking for a solution, cause I think the stock clutch will hold fine for what I want, just need to be able to shift.

you think this will help?

It's the problem we're all fighting, my master cylinder should help.

[chalhoee]

Are these still for sale? I'm interested in buying one.. Thanks!

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by chalhoee

Are these still for sale? I'm interested in buying one.. Thanks!

yes they are www.idealgaragellc.com