Have my new engine..wait to add mods?

[CamaroC-17]

Should I wait to add my longtubes, manifold spacer, cold air intake, and HF cats 2.5 inch exhaust with resonated xpipe and muffler delete? Not sure if I should wait a couple thousand miles or so

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[GretchenGotGrowl]

Hate to say it, but given your history I would wait a bit to make sure it doesn't have to go back in for more service.

[KMPrenger]

Agree, and then when you add them you may not want to do all of it at once either.

[CamaroC-17]

Why is that?

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[KMPrenger]

Originally Posted by CamaroC-17

Why is that?

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Well it probably doesn't matter. Just thinking if an issue pops up that can be difficult to diagnose, like a noise, or an issue with engine performance or smoothness...it could be a little more difficult to pin point the problem.

I dunno...don't listen to me! lol

[CamaroC-17]

Well with my problems aside, is there a mechanical reason to wait? Like does the engine need broken in first?

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[Blade]

No real mechanical reasons IMHO....but if I was you I would follow Gretchen's and KM's suggestions.

[CamaroC-17]

Originally Posted by Blade

No real mechanical reasons IMHO....but if I was you I would follow Gretchen's and KM's suggestions.

Well fine then...I'll wait

I was thinking about just putting on the intake and mace IM spacer since they are easy to take off. Then later doing the rest of my exhaust and tune. In the mean time I may re-polish (wet sand first this time) my IM and paint the plenum cover to match my valve covers.

[lscamaro]

I would give the engine at least 1500 miles to break in. That's the recommended break in time. After that, it's all up to you

[CamaroC-17]

So what is the proper break in method?

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[lscamaro]

Originally Posted by CamaroC-17

So what is the proper break in method?

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That's a topic of much debate. Many, including the owner's manual, say to take it easy the first 1500 miles and then you're good. Others say beat on it for the first 1500, change the oil, and then drive like normal. I personally beat on mine from the very beginning

[Yellow_Glide]

I've broken in many motors using this procedure including the LLT.

You'll need to find a road wit little or no traffic. Stay in second gear and accelerate at about half throttle from 30mph to 55/60 mph. When you reach 55/60, slowly reduce speed to 30mph. Repeat the process 4 times.

The purpose of the controlled speed increase / decrease is to build pressure on increase and build back pressure on the rings on speed decrease. The proper seating of he rings will affect several things, most importantly how efficiently the rings are seated to the cylinder walls. There's a difference between running hard and flogging a motor.

Take a look in the first few pages of the mace cam install thread where tracy posted about no oil in the intake manifold - at almost 18k miles I had no oil in the intake manifold. I didn't add a Catch can until almost 11k miles.

[TooCool5]

Originally Posted by Yellow_Glide

I've broken in many motors using this procedure including the LLT.

You'll need to find a road wit little or no traffic. Stay in second gear and accelerate at about half throttle from 30mph to 55/60 mph. When you reach 55/60, slowly reduce speed to 30mph. Repeat the process 4 times.

The purpose of the controlled speed increase / decrease is to build pressure on increase and build back pressure on the rings on speed decrease. The proper seating of he rings will affect several things, most importantly how efficiently the rings are seated to the cylinder walls. There's a difference between running hard and flogging a motor.

Take a look in the first few pages of the mace cam install thread where tracy posted about no oil in the intake manifold - at almost 18k miles I had no oil in the intake manifold. I didn't add a Catch can until almost 11k miles.

Did something similar with mine only I took it on Rt 9 in CT up and down the mountains at highway speed.
No oil in my intake either.