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Old 07-18-2011, 10:12 AM   #1
xxlbeerz
 
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Drives: 2010 Black on Black
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 533
Thumbs down Late Model Racecraft

To keep the review in perspective, my engine didn't explode or anything horribad, I am weighting the issues I had vs. cost, and I wouldn't say I'm a particularly difficult customer.


Cost:
American Racing 1 7/8 stainless steel headers/Connection pipes with high flow cats $1,895.00
Install the Headers, install the lock tight bolts $550.00
LS3 Cam Kit LS3 Comp Cam Kit $949.99
LS Front Cover gas... Water pump gaskets, Oil pump inlet Tube, Front Cover, Crankshaft front seal, Oil Pump inlet tube O-ring $90.51
Install Cam Kit, billet Tensioner $950.00
Custom Dyno Tune Custom Dyno Tune $550.00
Install Springs $460.00
Install Sway Bars $230.00
Install Shifter $230.00
*Reinstall stock end links $114.00

I am aware that these parts and labor are available elsewhere less expensively, but I wanted to go to the best shop in my immediate area (from research and word of mouth). I could only find a couple of negs out there, and I didn't see this until after http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...hlight=car+lmr , and I did get an unprompted earful from a couple of other customers who were picking up their cars at the same time as me.


List of problems:

1. Power resulted in 433hp/400tq, which is lower than most anyone else with these mods, which leads to...
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145684

2. I asked for a baseline dyno in writing and in person, was told the computer was broken or something. So I'll never know if my car was low to begin with. I can only assume it wasn't done.

3. Heavy duty end-links installed incorrectly and broke (see thread for whole sad story). Charged me to put the stock ones back (above), and when I made them aware later, did not acknowledge the email when I sent a pic and Manufacturer's advice.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148868

4. Car idled and ran strangely. Had this fixed by another tuner and it runs much much better now (though still low on power for some reason). New cam suggested.

5. Told them I was having a problem with the TPS sensors since the mods were put on. Informed they couldn't do anything about it. Now, I found after getting a flat and two broken TP sensors that the valve stems on inside of my wheels were hitting a brake line since being lowered. I acknowledge the springs and wheels were my equipment, but when I returned to get #6 and the end links swapped back I feel like they could have spun the wheel and seen that contact...

6. Small things I had to go back for which were fixed (thanks!), directional tires put on incorrectly, exhaust tips sticking out about six inches.


So in the end I'm out ~$500 and some time. Not a huge disaster, but still not particularly impressed. My main issue was just the lack of follow-up and attention to detail. I've had really good luck with Camaro5 vendors and local performance shops in the past, this is the first I would consider negative.

Last edited by xxlbeerz; 07-20-2011 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:10 AM   #2
BiggFoot

 
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Drives: 2010 Camaro (M6) 1000+ HP SBE
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,391
I appreciate you taking the time to write the review. I have been looking at several Houston shops plus a couple other shops out of the Houston area trying to nail down in my mind who will give me the best bang for my buck AND reliable follow-up. It rather dissapoints me that you had this issue with LMR as they had made my top three list up to this point and I have had several email conversations with Steven Fereday. So you have filed a complaint with LMR and have received no reply from them?
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Old 07-20-2011, 02:00 PM   #3
xxlbeerz
 
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Drives: 2010 Black on Black
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 533
Quote:
Originally Posted by BiggFoot View Post
I appreciate you taking the time to write the review. I have been looking at several Houston shops plus a couple other shops out of the Houston area trying to nail down in my mind who will give me the best bang for my buck AND reliable follow-up. It rather dissapoints me that you had this issue with LMR as they had made my top three list up to this point and I have had several email conversations with Steven Fereday. So you have filed a complaint with LMR and have received no reply from them?

Some things go under shit happens, especially when modding cars, but the follow-up is what matters to me. i.e. When the suspension is broken and found to be installed wrong, work with me on a fix. When the hp is low, see if any more tuning can be done instead of telling me the car is heavy/automatic (and at least give me the baseline dyno). When I report the TPS is giving errors since picking up, could check it out since the suspension was changed out, etc.


Some Responses, this is about the rwhp:
Date: Monday, May 9, 2011, 10:18 AM

I would subtract 18% in the newer Camaro's as they weigh a tons more. But yes your car could have been lower horsepower from the get go. But I think the intake and the CAI would help wake it up for sure!
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2011 10:00 AM
Subject: [!! SPAM] Re: [!! SPAM] Re: Invoice

I was subtracting 15% for manual, so about ~460rwhp. This seems in line with what I see on the forums and the LMR vids (450-480). I think the only difference I have from the slayer package is the intake (don't think the plugs or exhaust should make much difference right?). Do you have the baseline dyno... maybe the car was low to start?


--- On Mon, 5/9/11, sales@latemodelracecraft.com <sales@latemodelracecraft.com> wrote:
Date: Monday, May 9, 2011, 9:21 AM

Also we advertise 540 Slayer package which is to the flywheel. Once you subtract 20% for the Drivetrain loss in the automatic transmission, then you will have 432rwhp. So I believe with our CAI it will be around there. Which will be up from what it is at now.!
For reference my car is not an automatic, and I only get 433hp...


Tire/hp issue:


Date: Thursday, May 19, 2011, 10:23 AM

Beers,
Unfortunately we have no ability to work on the TPS Sensors none what so ever.. My apologies
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2011 9:54 AM
Subject: [!! SPAM] Re: Beers Camaro

Dyno before the stuff was put on.

Dealer told me $105 just to try a reset. There is some way to do it manual by deflating and airing the tire, will check on it.

Date: Thursday, May 19, 2011, 9:37 AM

Brent,
Are you asking for the baseline before the last install or before all of this stuff? Because no of this stuff is going to add horse power. We can not do anything with the TPS sensors that is only the dealership. All of the rest we can take care of without a probably... Oh and about your power on your car, every car is different and depending on how they are broken in or driven the numbers are going to be different. The setup we did on your car is the same as we did on 90% of the other packages so the power numbers are on what the car will put out. Follow? Thanks for the email I hope I helped.
LS9 Clutch and Flywheel $1,599, Slave Cylinder $236.99 and fluid. $450 to install it and a few dollars for the fluids. Let me know what you think.
Sent this, and got no response, so I just got it fixed somewhere else (and big thanks to Pfadt for helping me troubleshoot and get some spare parts!):
Re: Beers Camaro

Monday, June 6, 2011 12:52 PM

Thanks, also I got this from Pfadt, apparently the wrong bolts were installed into the front links:
Hey Brent, I'll get together the parts and a price that you need and try to get them sent
out today. We just need credit card information, card #, expiration date, security code and we can get them in the mail today.

One extremely important note, it looks like the rod ends were installed incorrectly into the turnbuckles. Here is a link to our install instructions: Camaro Endlink Install Diagram

It appears that you had the rod end with the Cap head bolt installed into a front endlink. This creates issues in the front which require quite more articulation in the front to work properly.

You need to remove the studded Left Hand Thread rod ends out of your rear endlinks and install them into your fronts. The replacement non studded left hand rod ends which broke and we are replacing need to be reassembled onto the rear endlink, and then threaded into the sway bar. It sounds confusing, but in reality it's pretty easy. Just make sure to read the diagram closely, or take it into the shop and make sure they look at the instructions closely.

That unidentified washer in your picture looks a whole lot like the stepped washer that gets installed on the rear endlink where it connects to the sway bar, that washer gets installed between the rod end and the sway bar. There is an exploded view of what i'm talking about in the instructions for the rear.

As far as the failure is concerned, the wheel hitting the curb certainly didn't help matters... but the mis installation was a potential contributing factor as well.

Date: Wednesday, June 8, 2011, 1:58 PM

Also I see what Pfadt was talking about, on mine the Allen bolt side was on the front, and it should be in the back.
My stuff:
http://i.imgur.com/hzxHe.jpg
Pic from their site:
http://www.pfadtracing.com/catalog/i...d-Links-1a.jpg



Couple of my friends recommended another shop to me. I went there for a retune, and my car does run way better. Their pricing seems fair as well. Will probably make that drive to Pearland in the future.

Last edited by xxlbeerz; 07-21-2011 at 08:23 AM. Reason: Took out email addresses and names
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Old 07-21-2011, 01:51 PM   #4
JETG
 
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS/RS
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Cypress, Texas
Posts: 486
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxlbeerz View Post
Some things go under shit happens, especially when modding cars, but the follow-up is what matters to me. i.e. When the suspension is broken and found to be installed wrong, work with me on a fix. When the hp is low, see if any more tuning can be done instead of telling me the car is heavy/automatic (and at least give me the baseline dyno). When I report the TPS is giving errors since picking up, could check it out since the suspension was changed out, etc.


Some Responses, this is about the rwhp:
Date: Monday, May 9, 2011, 10:18 AM

I would subtract 18% in the newer Camaro's as they weigh a tons more. But yes your car could have been lower horsepower from the get go. But I think the intake and the CAI would help wake it up for sure!
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2011 10:00 AM
Subject: [!! SPAM] Re: [!! SPAM] Re: Invoice

I was subtracting 15% for manual, so about ~460rwhp. This seems in line with what I see on the forums and the LMR vids (450-480). I think the only difference I have from the slayer package is the intake (don't think the plugs or exhaust should make much difference right?). Do you have the baseline dyno... maybe the car was low to start?


--- On Mon, 5/9/11, sales@latemodelracecraft.com <sales@latemodelracecraft.com> wrote:
Date: Monday, May 9, 2011, 9:21 AM

Also we advertise 540 Slayer package which is to the flywheel. Once you subtract 20% for the Drivetrain loss in the automatic transmission, then you will have 432rwhp. So I believe with our CAI it will be around there. Which will be up from what it is at now.!
For reference my car is not an automatic, and I only get 433hp...


Tire/hp issue:

Date: Thursday, May 19, 2011, 10:23 AM

Beers,
Unfortunately we have no ability to work on the TPS Sensors none what so ever.. My apologies
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2011 9:54 AM
Subject: [!! SPAM] Re: Beers Camaro

Dyno before the stuff was put on.

Dealer told me $105 just to try a reset. There is some way to do it manual by deflating and airing the tire, will check on it.

Date: Thursday, May 19, 2011, 9:37 AM

Brent,
Are you asking for the baseline before the last install or before all of this stuff? Because no of this stuff is going to add horse power. We can not do anything with the TPS sensors that is only the dealership. All of the rest we can take care of without a probably... Oh and about your power on your car, every car is different and depending on how they are broken in or driven the numbers are going to be different. The setup we did on your car is the same as we did on 90% of the other packages so the power numbers are on what the car will put out. Follow? Thanks for the email I hope I helped.
LS9 Clutch and Flywheel $1,599, Slave Cylinder $236.99 and fluid. $450 to install it and a few dollars for the fluids. Let me know what you think.
Sent this, and got no response, so I just got it fixed somewhere else (and big thanks to Pfadt for helping me troubleshoot and get some spare parts!):
Re: Beers Camaro

Monday, June 6, 2011 12:52 PM

Thanks, also I got this from Pfadt, apparently the wrong bolts were installed into the front links:
Hey Brent, I'll get together the parts and a price that you need and try to get them sent
out today. We just need credit card information, card #, expiration date, security code and we can get them in the mail today.

One extremely important note, it looks like the rod ends were installed incorrectly into the turnbuckles. Here is a link to our install instructions: Camaro Endlink Install Diagram

It appears that you had the rod end with the Cap head bolt installed into a front endlink. This creates issues in the front which require quite more articulation in the front to work properly.

You need to remove the studded Left Hand Thread rod ends out of your rear endlinks and install them into your fronts. The replacement non studded left hand rod ends which broke and we are replacing need to be reassembled onto the rear endlink, and then threaded into the sway bar. It sounds confusing, but in reality it's pretty easy. Just make sure to read the diagram closely, or take it into the shop and make sure they look at the instructions closely.

That unidentified washer in your picture looks a whole lot like the stepped washer that gets installed on the rear endlink where it connects to the sway bar, that washer gets installed between the rod end and the sway bar. There is an exploded view of what i'm talking about in the instructions for the rear.

As far as the failure is concerned, the wheel hitting the curb certainly didn't help matters... but the mis installation was a potential contributing factor as well.

Date: Wednesday, June 8, 2011, 1:58 PM

Also I see what Pfadt was talking about, on mine the Allen bolt side was on the front, and it should be in the back.
My stuff:
http://i.imgur.com/hzxHe.jpg
Pic from their site:
http://www.pfadtracing.com/catalog/i...d-Links-1a.jpg



Couple of my friends recommended another shop to me. I went there for a retune, and my car does run way better. Their pricing seems fair as well. Will probably make that drive to Pearland in the future.

Hmm I would guess since you said Pearland it is Mike Whitehouse over at G-Force. Reading those emails back to you were just terrible and hard to understand. It is a shock to say the least, usually Little Steven and Josh are on top of there game. Sorry to hear about your bad experience with LMR. I only take my car one place and it is in Pasadena, good work nice guys, and use to be old MTI techs. They are in no hurry to get stuff done and all parts are ordered and shown before going on the car.

J
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